Mother Of All Whore Threads Non-VIP Edition v.1

[Janz3n]

Off-topic rant - move or delete as needed.

Canada’s apparently got a policy allowing people to allow doctors to kill their patients when asked.

One of my wife’s relatives make a decision yesterday to follow thru with a “medically assisted suicide” in Canada and we get notified by family today that it happened.

That just seems like something outside the box and I’m not cool with it. Especially with the situation that we now get to deal with of … “so and so decided they no longer wanted to live, so they had their doctor take their life. Please understand and keep your thoughts with this person.”

Im not cool with suicide in general, but going about it in a way of going to the doctor to have them do it for you also doesn’t sit well. Like, there’s other avenues to address issues than to simple acquiesce to somebody’s request. Seems grotesque for that to be allowed.

Its only for terminally ill patients that have no chance of recovery. as far as i know.
my step mothers mom just did this a few months ago. being in pain and constantly on pain killers and not feeling well enough to get up and take a **** with no chance of survival id probably take the medically assisted dying option.

"In Canada, medically assisted dying (MAID) is legal for eligible adults with a grievous and irremediable medical condition, where natural death is reasonably foreseeable. The process involves a request by the individual, a thorough assessment by two independent health care professionals, and strict adherence to safeguards outlined in the Criminal Code. MAID can involve the administration of medication by a physician or nurse practitioner, or the prescription of medication for self-administration. "

 

[Nomar06]

Surely there are some stipulations to the "rule". I would imagine you can't just go to a doctor at any point and say "please kill me". I would assume you would have to have some disease that will end your life. Which regardless of the situation it is still a bit messed up but I can understand it if your going to die anyways.

Sort of an example....my dad when he had ALS. Fought it for almost a year and was not getting any better, then decided he didn't want to pursue any more treat meant. Maybe then a doctor could just end do a end of life procedure rather than waiting to pass away?

 

[webby]

It’s actually legal in 11 states including Washington state.
https://www.axios.com/2024/02/09/medically-assisted-death-states

Anyone remember dr kevorkian?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jack_Kevorkian

 

[Janz3n]

Surely there are some stipulations to the "rule". I would imagine you can't just go to a doctor at any point and say "please kill me". I would assume you would have to have some disease that will end your life. Which regardless of the situation it is still a bit messed up but I can understand it if your going to die anyways.

Sort of an example....my dad when he had ALS. Fought it for almost a year and was not getting any better, then decided he didn't want to pursue any more treat meant. Maybe then a doctor could just end do a end of life procedure rather than waiting to pass away?

Thats exactly what its for.

 

[Janz3n]

So I think I've decided to keep my civic and buy a couple drag radials for $630 and race at least one more year.
Been in contact with a place that can get the nt555rII. Seems like the nt555r is discontinued. RII is supposed to have thicker side walls.

 

[bootyluvr]

So I think I've decided to keep my civic and buy a couple drag radials for $630 and race at least one more year.
Been in contact with a place that can get the nt555rII. Seems like the nt555r is discontinued. RII is supposed to have thicker side walls.

You are like a woman back and forth with selling it/keeping it/selling it/keeping it.

 

[Honda-Fan]

So I think I've decided to keep my civic and buy a couple drag radials for $630 and race at least one more year.
Been in contact with a place that can get the nt555rII. Seems like the nt555r is discontinued. RII is supposed to have thicker side walls.

 

[Janz3n]

You are like a woman back and forth with selling it/keeping it/selling it/keeping it.

I'm well aware. I almost contacted someone selling a 2012 jeep patriot to replace my civic. Even looked into lifting it. It's surprisingly cheap. Rough country sells a kit with struts and control arms that does a 2 inch lift for $1000 CND.

It's also getting an exterior detail this weekend which was in preparation for selling. I have to commit to washing it once a week again.

We have also been looking at buying a house this past month. Unfortunately our budget is only good for about 1 million and everything in that range for what we need is a fixer upper. Lol.

 

[AlmosN8kd]

We have also been looking at buying a house this past month. Unfortunately our budget is only good for about 1 million and everything in that range for what we need is a fixer upper. Lol.

Is property in Canada that much differently priced to where $1M CND budget only gets you a 'fixer upper' . . . ?

Or, do you "need" something extravagant to where the cost of the house is abnormally large?

 

[Janz3n]

Is property in Canada that much differently priced to where $1M CND budget only gets you a 'fixer upper' . . . ?

Or, do you "need" something extravagant to where the cost of the house is abnormally large?

nothing extravagant. canada in general has higher housing prices for sure. but this area we live in is a desirable place as well.
its .83 of an acer, has a main house thats a fixer upper but livable and a 1 bed room cottage on the property were my mother in law would live. long term plan is to retire, live in the cottage and rent out the house and be able to travel and still have a place to stay in canada. thats the dream at least. wether or not we actually purchace this house or another one is up in the air.

 

[webby]

Vancouver and surrounding areas are significantly more expensive than some other areas of Canada.

 

[bootyluvr]

Shew! Still $700k+ USD is a lot

Edit: Now I want to see what $700k (USD) gets around my area lol

 

[AlmosN8kd]

I just bought some incandescent bulbs for the front (they're a tad easier to replace than the rears and I like how bright the rears are now with the LEDs) to toss in temporarily while I try and resolve this without in-line resistors (still considering either modifying the flasher module or converting to a standard flasher relay). But, while I was at the parts store, I did see an LED resistor kit, 2-6ohm resistors in the pack; so, I think your math checks out. EDIT: also, just went and checked the LED bulb manufacturer's page, their resistor kit (in line resistors) are 50W 6ohm each.

Rears (this is just the running light):
Before:View attachment 67754 After: View attachment 67755

Crazy mileage. Just reminded me…did you ever order resistors to try your led lights?

So, to answer question directly, no I did not order resistors for my LED lights as I've been trying to avoid that reality. I was still hoping for a plug and play solution that was easily reversible should I chose to reverse my decision to go LEDs at some point (not sure why I would do that; but, who knows what the future holds).

A buddy had a modified flasher module that says it was for an LED based circuit, plugged right into the car and everything. Upon testing, it worked spectacularly. However, upon use, it was not quite as simple. When the car is off or at a lower engine speed, the flash rate is normal; however, when the engine speed is up (such as changing lanes on the highway), the flash rate is initially normal but after the first couple of blinks, goes to a faster flash rate. I figure this is mostly due to say 12V at idle or engine off and maybe 13.2-13.5V at speed; but, this is a bit of a guess. I haven't quite figured out how I want to resolve this situation yet (and, my other inquiries on this topic remain unanswered).

To make the situation more complicated, the flasher module in my car is Mitsubishi part number MB627893; the modified one has Mitsubishi part number MB627894 which was surprising. Upon inspection, the differences that were easily visible is that the one for my car had 4 on-board relays and the modified one only had 2; however, while I'm not completely certain, the modification was not the removal of 2 relays from what we could tell (I'm not certain on that, it could be part of it, but I don't have an unmolested MB627894 to compare it to) but the addition of a resistor in place of a loop (again, when comparing the two versions I have). Unfortunately, it is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison as the two units are not identical adding to the complexity. When I run that part number in the Mitsubishi parts databases, it shows as being compatible with the car and not from say another model further making this more confusing (I'm not able to find a similar schematic of the modified module compared to the non-modified module).

So, for simplicity, I'm starting to consider getting resistors; but, the part of me that still wants this to be plug-and-play is fighting that.

Here's some pictures to try and help show what I'm describing:

 

[AlmosN8kd]

So, to answer question directly, no I did not order resistors for my LED lights as I've been trying to avoid that reality. I was still hoping for a plug and play solution that was easily reversible should I chose to reverse my decision to go LEDs at some point (not sure why I would do that; but, who knows what the future holds).

A buddy had a modified flasher module that says it was for an LED based circuit, plugged right into the car and everything. Upon testing, it worked spectacularly. However, upon use, it was not quite as simple. When the car is off or at a lower engine speed, the flash rate is normal; however, when the engine speed is up (such as changing lanes on the highway), the flash rate is initially normal but after the first couple of blinks, goes to a faster flash rate. I figure this is mostly due to say 12V at idle or engine off and maybe 13.2-13.5V at speed; but, this is a bit of a guess. I haven't quite figured out how I want to resolve this situation yet (and, my other inquiries on this topic remain unanswered).

To make the situation more complicated, the flasher module in my car is Mitsubishi part number MB627893; the modified one has Mitsubishi part number MB627894 which was surprising. Upon inspection, the differences that were easily visible is that the one for my car had 4 on-board relays and the modified one only had 2; however, while I'm not completely certain, the modification was not the removal of 2 relays from what we could tell (I'm not certain on that, it could be part of it, but I don't have an unmolested MB627894 to compare it to) but the addition of a resistor in place of a loop (again, when comparing the two versions I have). Unfortunately, it is a bit of an apples to oranges comparison as the two units are not identical adding to the complexity. When I run that part number in the Mitsubishi parts databases, it shows as being compatible with the car and not from say another model further making this more confusing (I'm not able to find a similar schematic of the modified module compared to the non-modified module).

So, for simplicity, I'm starting to consider getting resistors; but, the part of me that still wants this to be plug-and-play is fighting that.

Here's some pictures to try and help show what I'm describing:
View attachment 67764 View attachment 67765

View attachment 67767 View attachment 67766

This question got me into the book again and I think the difference in modules is between the two versions (small bumper type 2 and large bumper):

Small bumper type 2:


Large bumper (what I have):


Which might explain why the modified module doesn't work properly in my car. A bit of a guess, but none of this is making a lot of sense as the circuit is unnecessarily complicated for little/no reason.

 

[AlmosN8kd]

Didn’t get a chance to look at schematics yesterday. I’ll try to see if I can look at that today.

You ever get a chance to look through this (I didn't see a response). No worries if not, was just curious if you thought I was off base or on the right track with this:

Ok, so if you remember me posting about my front bumper replacement on my Stealth (I've only mentioned it about 100 times, so, maybe not). Anyhow, one of the side effects of this I didn't account for ahead of time were the turn signal bulbs. With the original setup, the turn signal housings were amber; however, on the 99 3000GT setup, the turn signal housings are clear; not a big deal overall. However, I used what I had which were clear (white) light bulbs. Fortunately, with the reflector inside the 99 3000GT turn signal housing, the new turn signals appeared mostly amber; so, it is passable, at least temporarily. Anyhow, wanting to make it correct, and maybe improve things a bit, I've opted to install LED bulbs. Here is the difference (pictures don't carry the color quite as well as I'd hoped):
White bulbs:
View attachment 67750

Amber LEDs:
View attachment 67749

When I purchased the LEDs, I figured I'd replace front and rear at the same time and never have to worry about these ever again; I also knew that this would change the flash rate due to the reduced load on the circuit. Fortunately, the company I purchased the LEDs through offered a Flasher relay to adjust things without having to add resistors (I really didn't want to add resistors so I thought this would make things super simple). So, you might be asking yourself at this point, why am I now posing an electrical question?

Well, this is where things get semi-interesting (from a nerdy perspective). So, my car is a Stealth, which for all intents and purposes, is identical to a 3000GT; however, there remain some subtle differences between them, most of which are cosmetic. And, well, it turns out, the same is true for the turn signal/flasher circuit which caught me a bit by surprise; the Stealth (of my year's production) does not have a Flasher relay, it has a flasher module. I've been an enthusiast on this platform for more than 20yrs and didn't realize these were different (and, I know most every bolt on the car from looking at it). The background is, that after 1991, Mitsubishi abandoned the original Flasher module in place of a flasher relay; however, while Mitsubishi produced both the 3000GT and the Stealth in Nagoya, Japan, they did not make this same change on the Stealths. Why? I have no idea. I suspect, and this is purely a guess, that Chrysler didn't want to pay for the R&D to make the change (even though, Mitsubishi already did it and probably would've split costs - who knows?).

Anyhow, I now have a flasher relay I cannot use and a circuit that doesn't have enough load, so I've been diving down the rabbit hole of how to solve this problem. I've come up with the following options:
1) Modify the existing flasher module to support the reduced load and restore blink rate
2) Rewire the car to use a flasher module and install the updated one for the reduced load
3) Install resistors (or, install regular bulbs, at least in the front, temporarily to accomplish the same effect)
4) Replace the body harness with one from a 3000GT
5) Say "Fvck it" and deal with hyper blinking

All together, I think options 1-3 are the most viable and are ordered in desired preference. Option 4 has the potential to get exorbitantly expensive and is probably not worth the effort (not to mention, I do not know what other issues I'd run into as a result of this). Option 5 is just one I do not like.

Option 1: So, I've been trying to find someone who may be able to modify the module to work, I think this is a bit outside my knowledge and I'm not sure how much resistance can, or needs to, be added.

Option 3: I'd still prefer not to do. Mostly as I don't want to worry about the heat management associated with the resistors around plastic and other components (such as the light housings) or being exposed to the elements. I did this method on my motorcycle and haven't had any issues; but, the LED manufacturer had a specific warning about these so it gives me caution. As for reinstalling regular bulbs, it doesn't get past the long-term issue of finding bulbs getting increasingly more difficult as LEDs become more prominent. Fortunately, I have some used ones, and could put these in as when I tested the circuit (after replacing the fronts only) the blink rate was normal. But, the LEDs are considerably brighter than the incandescent bulbs which is pretty important (I think).

Option 2: This is where I've been spending most of my time, digging into the rabbit hole of the schematics for the car and where I'm looking for help.

Here is the wiring setup for the turn signal circuit on my car (the module is located in the lower left):
View attachment 67747

Here is the same circuit, except it is from one of the cars with a turn signal relay (the relay is located in the exact same area on the lower left):
View attachment 67748
Now, this is very odd as this is what I think is the base model version of the Stealth for 1994 - so, maybe Chrysler kept the module on the upper trim versions as it was a 'premium' even though going to the relay would've been possibly more sensible in 30yrs? Again, who knows why Chrysler didn't follow Mitsubishi in this change.

So, looking over the drawings at connecter E-30 in particular (this is the plug for the module), I think if I rewire the circuit as follows, I can use a flasher relay instead of a modified module (although, I think the modified module is likely the more elegant solution):

E-30 Pin 14 goes to Relay pin 2.
Relay Pin 3 goes to E-30 pin 12
Relay Pin 1 goes to E-30 pins 10 & 11
E-30 pin 2 goes to E-30 pins 1 & 7
E-30 pin 4 goes to E-30 pins 5 & 6
E-30 pin 3 is unused?

Does this look right to you? What did I miss? What questions do you have where I can add clarity and understanding? Why am I going to a Civic forum for help on a 30yr old Mitsubishi product (because this same question on the 3/S forums has gone unanswered)?


You may not have needed all this background, I probably could've said, how do I replace the module in picture A with a relay like in picture B but thought it would make a lot more sense to understand the context. I apologize if this was not the case and you have now wasted 30mins of your life reading all of my non-Civic nonsense.

So, looking over the drawings at connecter E-30 in particular (this is the plug for the module), I think if I rewire the circuit as follows, I can use a flasher relay instead of a modified module (although, I think the modified module is likely the more elegant solution):

E-30 Pin 14 goes to Relay pin 2.
Relay Pin 3 goes to E-30 pin 12
Relay Pin 1 goes to E-30 pins 10 & 11
E-30 pin 2 goes to E-30 pins 1 & 7
E-30 pin 4 goes to E-30 pins 5 & 6
E-30 pin 3 is unused?

 

[webby]

I was still hoping for a plug and play solution that was easily reversible should I chose to reverse my decision to go LEDs at some point (not sure why I would do that; but, who knows what the future holds).

Headlight Load Resistor Kit - 9005 LED Headlight Bulbs - 9005 CONNECTION Kit

Headlight LED load resistors prevent "bulb out" error messages and bulb flickering. These 6 ohm 50-watt load resistors compensate for the low power draw of 9005 LED bulbs so that they can communicate properly with your vehicle's computer system. They can also be used in conjunction with standard...

www.superbrightleds.com

What’s the bulb base for the lights? These are essentially what I’m referring to you buying. You can just unplug these and be back to stock with no cutting or altering your wiring harness.

 

[AlmosN8kd]

http://[URL][URL]https://www.superb...-9005-led-headlight-bulbs-9005-connection-kit

[/URL][/URL]

What’s the bulb base for the lights? These are essentially what I’m referring to you buying. You can just unplug these and be back to stock with no cutting or altering your wiring harness.

Interesting, I haven't seen these before.

The bulbs are 1157 equivalent (all 4). Poked around that site a bit; doesn't look like they make a jumper harness like that for the 1157 style bulbs.

 

[webby]

Interesting, I haven't seen these before.

The bulbs are 1157 equivalent (all 4). Poked around that site a bit; doesn't look like they make a jumper harness like that for the 1157 style bulbs.

Amazon product
View: https://www.amazon.com/Auxbeam-Flicker-Resistor-BAY15D-Signal/dp/B09PHCZNJH?th=1

looks like these are for 1157 bulb base.

Load Resistor Kit - 1157 LED Bulb Connection Kit - Single / 2-Pack

This LED Load Resistor Kit prevents flickering and bulb-out error messages. This 6-ohm load resistor compensates for the low power draw of 1157 LED bulbs so that they can communicate properly with the vehicle's computer system. The plug-and-play LED load resistor is easily installed in line with...

www.superbrightleds.com

 

[webby]

1157: XB LED Bulbs (Resistor-Free)

Resistor-Free 1157 XB LED Bulbs from Morimoto provide insane performance without adding resistors. Order today!

www.morimotohid.com

morimoto also makes the bulbs with the resistors built in

 

[Nomar06]

this can’t be real….right?

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/16WjAgnfeX/?mibextid=wwXIfr