my newest project - not a Civic, but cool nonetheless

Cool updates man. Been waiting to see what you were up to with this.
 
well, I found out something new. He's done a lot of restorations, but he's never done the c1. Regardless, he had a few comments.

he provided a link to a 62 fuel pump so you could compare your 62 fuel pump:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-and-c2-corvettes/2519189-1962-fuel-pump-pictures.html

He said you have an oil adapter that allows you to use modern spin on oil filters. He also said they are not the original pistons, so they were obviously replaced at some point.

The Corvette Forum is an excellent option. Another is to establish a relationship with other restorers in the local /state Corvette club for advice. I would highly recommend joining the National Corvette Restorers Society (http://www.ncrs.org/) as they offer restoration seminars and numerous restoration reference books which are invaluable to both the novice and experienced restorer. This includes information which can help discern if a part was commonly found on 1962 Corvette factory cars or if it is aftermarket, etc. Part number look up references can be very helpful. They also have knowledge of local machine shop and restoration resources, as well as national resources.

A bent frame indicates frame and body damage. Is the frame straight at this time or does it need further work? Attempt to understand the extent of thecollision damage to the body. There are many clues. Were numerous body mount shims found on the car during dismantling? Are body parts in proper alignment, do the doors sag, etc. I remember one frame in which extra washers were used between the engine block and the engine mount to fill in the space gap from an improperly straightened frame. Be observant as the clues are there but may not be obvious.

Sorry I could not be of more help. Local support is the best option I can recommend for this C1.
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We may be able to help him with originality if he provides photos of the GM block casting number on the driver side engine bell housing flange and a photograph or pencil tracing of the numbers on a flat pad located on the front passenger side of the block just below the engine head. These are clues to originality that can be looked up in reference books.
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so much for being rebuilt. i guess it's a good thing y'all convinced me to tear it down completely. all the bearings show signs of scoring, deep grooves, or discoloration from wear. as bad as the bearings are, the crank journals look good and don't show any noticeable scoring or deep grooves. the pistons themselves seemed tight in the cylinders and the cylinders don't show excessive wear, so I think they're okay. at this point, should I just replace all the rings and bearings and call it a day?

main bearings - block
block-main-1_zps467b6a86.jpg

block-main-2_zps7c441420.jpg

block-main-3_zpsd6a3b0ef.jpg

block-main-4_zpscd6a8576.jpg

block-main-rear_zps0c2477ad.jpg


main bearings - caps
main-cap-1_zpsa270093f.jpg

main-cap-2_zps86029401.jpg

main-cap-3_zps646bd8d6.jpg

main-cap-4_zps0e2511d7.jpg

main-cap-rear_zpsc31c83e3.jpg
 

flat pad forward of passenger side bank. i can't tell from this picture, so I'll try to get a better one next time i work. honestly, i think some numbers are missing (scratched off or filled in) from this location. owner says it was like that since he bought it, which was over 30 years ago.
block-stamp-2.jpg

engine casting number (driver side bell housing) - i believe that says "2GM" and "3782870"
block-stamp-1-2.jpg

thanks for your help webby. i have most of the assembly and service manuals available on the C1, including the NCRS judging guide, but they still don't detail everything, so the web is still super helpful.
 
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KennyGS said:
Here is the thread from that ^ guy.> http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112313

He actually posted a more novel way to do it...
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Looks great on the homemade lift system. The only thing I'd be worried about the center 2x4 where the two chain hoists are connected to as those things are heavy. It should have been at least two of 2x4 vertically sandwiched together instead of horizontal. Lucky the frame from the car wasn't too heavy but wouldn't hurt to have that safety margin.

Rest of the project looks good!! Keep em coming!!
 
Are the cylinder wall marks ok? Nothing you can catch a fingernail in?
 
If that's the case, then the rings/bearings... (at least I'd do them). You have it all apart, so there is no reason not to. They look like they have some pretty decent wear.
 
now, i thought this number is supposed to coincide with the number on the steering column for the block to be original to the car? if so. this isn't the original block.
block-casting-numbers-pass-upper-deck_zpsc578fc05.jpg


VIN (from steering column)
VIN_zpsbe0eb119.jpg
 
What I found-
"Beginning in 1960 the stamp included the serial number of the car it was installed in. The 327 engine in my Corvette contains the following number sequences: 6122891 F0518HE. Decoded, the first sequence is 6 for the year (66) and then the VIN sequence of 122891. The second stamp decodes F for the Flint Plant, May 18 is the engine assembly date and the HE suffix code stands for a 327 ci 300 hp with a manual transmission."
 
Wow, I keep missing these threads that I'm watching. Lol. The bearings do look a bit worn out. Are you going to replace them? Also, I find it odd that the current Corvettes still use the same '2 valve per cylinder' as the old gens.
 
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