PRL short ram intake - oil breather and hoses from stock airbox?

You really need to have the car tuned for a DP and PRL if I am correct if you install the PRL with no tune it will throw a CEL
 
My personal advice would be to buy Hondata before anything else it's not cheap but without it everything else is pointless.
 
Hondata makes the difference. My car runs as quiet as it did stock at idle. I love it, it wakes up once Im getting on it.
 
I wish my car was quiet sometimes lol I have the Skunk2 DP and Skunk2 76mm and I was doing 3rd gear pulls one night and somehow blew the silencer right out of the exhaust.
 
:rotfl::rotfl::rotfl::iorun::iorun: Thats hilarious. But yeah, 3rd gear pulls? I have the invidia n1 and the full-race dp and it is so loud when I am hammering it
 
I should have done more research before I started buying parts I was just in such a hurry I ended up wasting a lot of money I must have spent $1,200 or better on different intakes alone. I went through several different sets of HID'S and so much other random stuff now I research everything before I buy it.
 
Yeah I just ordered my HIDS from Zenon depot, and I am sure these bulbs will be a much higher quality
 
I started off with 6k with matching fogs Went to 5k with matching fogs now I have 4500k with yellow fogs its the perfect combo for a black car. And with the parking light delete it looks so good at night.
 
I think my next major mod is gonna be switching from springs to coilovers just not sure how much of a budget I wanna give myself yet.
 
I have the Ksport Kontrol Pros. They were like 865$ from corsport (same coil as D2's) and they ride incredibly smooth. I am very happy with the quality of them no doubt
 
I just pulled some Megan's out of my Accord last weekend I will say with 100% honesty that's a brand I will never buy again I had them in a little over a year and they are destroyed literally fell apart in my hands as I was taking them out. So I am really gonna do some research before I pull the trigger on any coils.
 
Abbz8377 said:
If you do it that way it will allow the coolant to flow away from the throttle body and slightly reduce heat soak which might help a little more because you have an SRI
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@Abbz8377 can you please tell me if I installed this correctly. I'm mainly just worried about the coolant bypass. A decent amount leaked out too as I was changing the hoses. I can't tell if I need to top off or not. I didn't get any check engine light so that's a good sign. Basically on the coolant bypass, you can see the top half. I plugged the bottom half into the black rail where the old line was, that's correct, right? Also, that small breather filter. Its kind of bent up because of the hose underneath it. I tried to push it down to bend a little but its not moving much. Is that ok?

Just trying to make sure I installed all this correctly. Sorry if that first photo posted twice. I can't get it to delete. Here is a better picture of those bypass.

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Also what's the purpose of the little vacuum caps. I came to the part store and bought some but one of those ports had a tiny bit of coolant that leaked out when I put the caps on. Is coolant supposed to come out of these or is it taken care of by the bypass I did? Sorry for dumb questions. This crap just worries me lol
 
The coolant bypass looks fine, the amount of coolant you lost should self bleed any air in the system out into the reservoir. The amount is really minor, just check the reservoir is at full and check WHEN COLD your radiator is topped of after a "bleed drive". I just used one of the stock lines and put a buffer between any rub points, looks clean and stock really. The caps are just used to keep any debris/bugs out and clogging your passages in your TB, some coolant will stay in there as you cant dump out every bit until you remove the TB and tip it. Not a bad idea but I don't plan to revert back to a heated TB so I didn't use any but if I did a blast of air through the passages will suffice.
 
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