Rusted sunroof glass frame

So since I installed the new glass I've noticed it leaks when it rains. Finally took a close look yesterday and it appears to be coming from the right side, was wet on the plastic cover. Didn't have time to remove the cover. I'll be taking it off in preparation for the next rain.

My concern is how I would get the part warrantied if I didn't have the dealer install it.
 
View attachment 57982 View attachment 57983 View attachment 57984 hey everyone,

I haven’t been on in a while because well life and all. I really haven’t had issues with my car until recently. I noticed the front of the sunroof glass frame is starting to rot. Needless to say I’m not happy. There seems to be quite a few of these on the Internet. I’m out of factory warranty, but the car is certified. I’m taking it to the dealer today to have it inspected and a claim submitted. If Honda doesn’t take care of it, I’m likely going to get rid of the car for another make all together. I love the car, but the customer service remains to be seen.

Was wondering if anyone else has ran into this. I’m attaching some pics as well.
 
View attachment 57982 View attachment 57983 View attachment 57984 hey everyone,

I haven’t been on in a while because well life and all. I really haven’t had issues with my car until recently. I noticed the front of the sunroof glass frame is starting to rot. Needless to say I’m not happy. There seems to be quite a few of these on the Internet. I’m out of factory warranty, but the car is certified. I’m taking it to the dealer today to have it inspected and a claim submitted. If Honda doesn’t take care of it, I’m likely going to get rid of the car for another make all together. I love the car, but the customer service remains to be seen.

Was wondering if anyone else has ran into this. I’m attaching some pics as well.
Same here car has 52000km. Honda saying not covered. Had both rear fenders painted cause of rust after fighting with them even tho I had extended warranty on paint but wont cover sunroof. Never seen that on sunroof before .
 
15 civic 52000km . Extended warrenty won't cover this . Bs.
 

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15 civic 52000km . Extended warrenty won't cover this . Bs.
Take it up with Honda corporate instead of the dealer. That’s how another members had theirs resolved.
Call Customer Care 1-800-999-1009
 
Sorry, bringing this thread back from the dead. But, I’m researching one problem and chasing things down led to another so I have a few questions. My sunroof has a little rust on the front center edge behind the seal but up until this week has operated flawlessly and hasn’t leaked despite the outer portion of the seal looking dried out.

So, rust aside, the main issue I’m having is that when attempting to close the sunroof, it doesn’t respond (you can hear the relay in the overhead click but no movement). As I researched this problem, not much was available from what I found; a few threads about cleaning tracks and greasing slides or to run a reset procedure. However, there was little to no information on whether or not either of these ever actually fixed the issue. Further reading lead me to threads on this topic which made me suspect that the two issues are related (such as the failure to operate is a result of corrosion of the motor or similar).

Anyhow, here are my questions:
1) does the reset procedure actually improve sunroof performance?
2) has anyone found a reliable fix for the click/no movement problem outside of roof replacement?
3) has anyone disassembled a sunroof assembly to attempt to repair a failed motor (I read the bits about removing the seal to clean & paint which had issues, I’m looking more at the motors and actuators)? Worthwhile effort or waste of time?
4) has anyone else that had rust issues on the sunroof also had the click/no movement issue?
 
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Man i was having this same issue alot with my sunroof last summer. Just about every other time i tried to close it it would just click and not move and i would close it manually (i know, and i would still open it once i managed to close it lol)

after doing the reset with the ignition and what not on about 10 different occasions its been working flawlessly lol

knock on wood
 
Sorry, bringing this thread back from the dead. But, I’m researching one problem and chasing things down led to another so I have a few questions. My sunroof has a little rust on the front center edge behind the seal but up until this week has operated flawlessly and hasn’t leaked despite the outer portion of the seal looking dried out.

So, rust aside, the main issue I’m having is that when attempting to close the sunroof, it doesn’t respond (you can hear the relay in the overhead click but no movement). As I researched this problem, not much was available from what I found; a few threads about cleaning tracks and greasing slides or to run a reset procedure. However, there was little to no information on whether or not either of these ever actually fixed the issue. Further reading lead me to threads on this topic which made me suspect that the two issues are related (such as the failure to operate is a result of corrosion of the motor or similar).

Anyhow, here are my questions:
1) does the reset procedure actually improve sunroof performance?
2) has anyone found a reliable fix for the click/no movement problem outside of roof replacement?
3) has anyone disassembled a sunroof assembly to attempt to repair a failed motor (I read the bits about removing the seal to clean & paint which had issues, I’m looking more at the motors and actuators)? Worthwhile effort or waste of time?
4) has anyone else that had rust issues on the sunroof also had the click/no movement issue?

So, I performed the sunroof reset procedure a few weeks back; and, well, sunroof performance was unchanged. In fact, after it opened up, it took the better part of an hour while driving (and intermittently attempting to close) for it to actually close electrically. This leads me to believe that the issue is electrical such as dirty/corroded connections are not sending sufficient current to the actuator motors. Or, that the motors themselves have become corroded (or have carbon buildup from internal brushes) and require replacement.

Is there any trick to getting the headliner out of the sedan without damaging it?

I think that is my best bet, to remove the headliner so that I can fiddle with the sunroof mechanism in order to figure out what is actually failing and fix or replace it. When I dropped the headliner a couple of years ago to do my F&R dashcam install, I just left it resting on the head rest as there were quite a few things attached to it (wires and what not) and I didn't want to try to manipulate it in the interior and slide it out a door. Just curious if anyone has done this previously to where I can save myself a bunch of time and effort in trial and error.
 
So, I performed the sunroof reset procedure a few weeks back; and, well, sunroof performance was unchanged. In fact, after it opened up, it took the better part of an hour while driving (and intermittently attempting to close) for it to actually close electrically. This leads me to believe that the issue is electrical such as dirty/corroded connections are not sending sufficient current to the actuator motors. Or, that the motors themselves have become corroded (or have carbon buildup from internal brushes) and require replacement.

Is there any trick to getting the headliner out of the sedan without damaging it?

I think that is my best bet, to remove the headliner so that I can fiddle with the sunroof mechanism in order to figure out what is actually failing and fix or replace it. When I dropped the headliner a couple of years ago to do my F&R dashcam install, I just left it resting on the head rest as there were quite a few things attached to it (wires and what not) and I didn't want to try to manipulate it in the interior and slide it out a door. Just curious if anyone has done this previously to where I can save myself a bunch of time and effort in trial and error.
A lot of times in smaller cars with no rear hatch the windshield has to come out to get the headliner out. Not sure if you can get it out through the door.
 
A lot of times in smaller cars with no rear hatch the windshield has to come out to get the headliner out. Not sure if you can get it out through the door.
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm afraid of. My thought at the moment is either to fully recline the front seats (or remove them) and then try to twist the headliner on its side to slide out a rear door. But, my car is 700miles away from me right now (it's a long story) so this isn't happening for a few weeks, at the earliest.
 
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm afraid of. My thought at the moment is either to fully recline the front seats (or remove them) and then try to twist the headliner on its side to slide out a rear door. But, my car is 700miles away from me right now (it's a long story) so this isn't happening for a few weeks, at the earliest.
Would make the diag a lot easier to get it out but still doable with it in.
 
Would make the diag a lot easier to get it out but still doable with it in.
Yeah, if I knew what I was specifically going up into the inner roof for, I'd probably leave it in place. However, I want to remove it to aid in troubleshooting over time (plus time for parts delays, installation, and extended testing). So, I'm expecting the headliner to be out, once I get it out, for a few months at a minimum. I just looked through some old pics I took from my dash cam install (see dash cam thread), since the rake on the windshield and rear glass is so long (making the headliner fairly short in comparison to the interior's length), I think there may be enough room with the front seats out of the way to twist it and get it out the driver's side rear door (dropping it down on the passenger's side to avoid the steering wheel and column). And, I didn't see anything attached to the headliner itself (so, I must've confused that from memories of my Pilot's headliner which does have harnesses and hoses attached to the headliner) which means this will likely be a slightly easier job once I can get started on it.
 
Yeah, if I knew what I was specifically going up into the inner roof for, I'd probably leave it in place. However, I want to remove it to aid in troubleshooting over time (plus time for parts delays, installation, and extended testing). So, I'm expecting the headliner to be out, once I get it out, for a few months at a minimum. I just looked through some old pics I took from my dash cam install (see dash cam thread), since the rake on the windshield and rear glass is so long (making the headliner fairly short in comparison to the interior's length), I think there may be enough room with the front seats out of the way to twist it and get it out the driver's side rear door (dropping it down on the passenger's side to avoid the steering wheel and column). And, I didn't see anything attached to the headliner itself (so, I must've confused that from memories of my Pilot's headliner which does have harnesses and hoses attached to the headliner) which means this will likely be a slightly easier job once I can get started on it.
Well, I removed the headliner a few months ago and haven't done much with the sunroof system. That was until yesterday. To recap, about a year ago, it started acting up. Basically, it would open but wouldn’t close (you could hear a click, but no motor action) and progressively got worse (at times, it wouldn’t even open or lift the back, basically, just intermittent operation all around). Due to my move and what not, this has been on the back burner. I messed with this a bit yesterday and today and I think I’ve narrowed down the problem to the integrated relay on the circuit board which controls the motor. Admittedly, I’m guessing a little on that as the minimal replacement part is the motor assembly (Honda part 70450-TR0-A01) at a cost of $300 (list price).

I’ve taken the motor assembly apart, the motor turns easily by hand; so, I’m thinking it is electronic and that ‘click’ I hear is the on board relay. Even with the motor assembly removed, and plugged in (basically, eliminating the cable actuator resistance as a possible cause), it exhibits the same issue, intermittent operation and when it fails, all I hear is a click with no action. It could be a harness issue but I’m not suspecting that at the moment (I haven’t pulled any voltages from the harness to confirm; but the car is largely unmodified).

Just for your purview, I’ve included a picture of the motor assembly circuit board:
Civic Sunroof Motor Circuit Board.jpeg

Has anyone dug this far into their sunroof to fix it? Or, should I just replace the motor assembly and move on with my day?
 
I would confirm voltage at the pins for the motor before condeming that relay. i would lean more towards the motor being bad, but without any resistance specs for it that might be hard to verify without replacing parts.
 
I would confirm voltage at the pins for the motor before condeming that relay. i would lean more towards the motor being bad, but without any resistance specs for it that might be hard to verify without replacing parts.
I think that is what I was leaning towards doing next as well. That would definitely confirm the fault is on the board, at least somewhere, and make me a little more comfortable with replacing the motor assembly.
 
I think that is what I was leaning towards doing next as well. That would definitely confirm the fault is on the board, at least somewhere, and make me a little more comfortable with replacing the motor assembly.
assuming the motor is just power and ground you can also apply power and ground to it and see if its working.
 
So, ran some tests on the pins for the motor and harness. I'm getting a consistent 12V supply on the two large pins for the harness (so, the motor has power); but, when I test the module pins, I'm only getting a brief voltage spike (like the relay shuts and immediately opens) and the highest I was seeing on my meter was about 9V. So, I'm pretty sure I've found the problem. But, I also need to replace the glass as the seal is basically gone too. So, here comes a big bill from the Honda parts counter.
 
So, ran some tests on the pins for the motor and harness. I'm getting a consistent 12V supply on the two large pins for the harness (so, the motor has power); but, when I test the module pins, I'm only getting a brief voltage spike (like the relay shuts and immediately opens) and the highest I was seeing on my meter was about 9V. So, I'm pretty sure I've found the problem. But, I also need to replace the glass as the seal is basically gone too. So, here comes a big bill from the Honda parts counter.
are you testing it with the motor on that board ? if not i wonder if it doesnt see voltage back it will shut off the relay? hard to know how that works with out the proper honda diagnostics though. i have access to prodemand let me know if you want any wiring diagrams
 
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