Stock IM vs RBC IM

@axion_industries:

Re: "RBC no good" issue. You did a dyno with an RBC and came up with 257whp and 211lb torque. Normally aspirated with ordinary mods. Right? Amazing. How did you do it? Are the RBC conversions selling well? You arer still recommending RBC conversions to get almost 60 extra hp for cheap, right? Or should I spend $3,500 for a stage 1 cte sc to get that?

Can you help me understand this with more info? Thx.
 
Shagydishapopo said:
More input about the loss of midrange torque would really help this thread.
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Everyone knows that lol. I don't think that's the point of this thread. Maybe I'm worng though.

Axion's 211lbft torque seems to be a steady climb to @5k. Not a dip at all. I wonder why. Shagydishapopo, can you help me, do you know why that is? Did you have an RBC conversion? How noticeable was the dip under wot?
 
hotdogjohnny said:
Everyone knows that lol. I don't think that's the point of this thread. Maybe I'm worng though.

Axion's 211lbft torque seems to be a steady climb to @5k. Not a dip at all. I wonder why. Shagydishapopo, can you help me, do you know why that is? Did you have an RBC conversion? How noticeable was the dip under wot?
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Thats why Im here for more information why Vits graph has a torque dip but some people dont. Having Axion pitch in his eperience would help us out. I dont have the RBC yet because right when I was about to pull the trigger this thread came up so kind of holding back for now. I know that FI RBC would be best best though if youre going that route. But other than that im just as clueless as you haha.
 
Damn it, I wish the people with the information would chime in. I understand people are busy and all, but come on now !!
 
We retuned with Vit on a roller dyno and came in with 192tq which is really nice..... I think if you are autocrossing the car and need power down low for torque then you wont want to do RBC... But for people going full out there is no doubt I would do the RBC swap. Once cams are available for this car you will see the RBC manifold swap make even more sense for people
 
axion_industries said:
We retuned with Vit on a roller dyno and came in with 192tq which is really nice..... I think if you are autocrossing the car and need power down low for torque then you wont want to do RBC... But for people going full out there is no doubt I would do the RBC swap. Once cams are available for this car you will see the RBC manifold swap make even more sense for people
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Hey, thanks for the reply. Did the HP number stay high (257) on the roller dyno? I like the cam reference. Makes sense that wot drivers may still want to do this mod.
 
yea i think im just gonna try and max out the potential with my plastic manifold, im hoping someone makes one specifically for our cars soon
 
See im confused. Looking at the 3 dyno graphs posted amd focusing on the tq curves (since the hp is a by product of torque and rpms anyways) the original one vit posted is the only one to have the wild dips and peaks. The second one, squigy I believe, peaks at around 155 tq around 5k rpms or so and slowly dwindles from there. Axions does the same thing just at a higher number at around 6k rpms and slowly dips from there. Which is normal. Ill have to try to look more in detail later but going back to vits graph the non rbc peaked at 175 tq but it was just a peak, it spikes there and dips wildly after. So its not maintaining the tq. The rbc dips in the same spot. So its a very limited rpm range outside of vtec (maybe 200 rpm) where your missing anything. And given drastic peaks and valleys id assume (dont know anything about tuning) that after tuning, when you get a smooth powerband they would be about the same. The spike on the stock manifold would need to be tuned out just like the dip on the rbc would. Considering the other dynos are smooth curves that build and peak then slowly drop off id say that the original dyno graph vit posted was just work in progress. Not trying to insult anyone or call anyone out, just trying to objectively look at the graphs themselves amd not just the numbers. I really need to lay all the graphs out infront of me along with a few others to be sure though.
 
I had my maxbore products installed yesterday and although I haven't finished my tuning with Vit, I can say that there's quite a noticeable difference. The mid-range/top end are much stronger where before it felt like it was running out of power in the upper rpms. On a side note, the engine tone is now deeper which i didn't expect. All in all, for only $280-315 (dependent on whether or not you need your TBS bored out to match), it can't be beat in terms of performance for dollars spent. Once i'm done tuning with Vit, I'll post up my e-dyno for everyone. Just got to get some decent weather that's not 95+ degrees (Florida). For those that aren't aware, my mod list is now as follows:

RV-6 Catless Downpipe
Tsudo Catback Exhaust
Rick Spec'd 3.5" SRI
P2R IMG
P2R Throttle Body Spacer
Maxbore 68mm Throttle Body
Port Match OEM Manifold
Ported Intake Runners (Maxbore)
Hondata Flashpro w/Vit Tuning in progress
NST Pullies (on backorder...waiting)
 
Stealth,

Do you have numbers for before you added the newest mods (T.B.Manifold) I would love to see a before after.
 
Unfortunately no. The closest dyno to me is about an hour away. The best I can offer is simply provide an e-dyno once my tuning is complete so that we can see what the OEM Mainfold can do on a fully bolted setup. I can confidently say that it's running stronger now in 90+ degree weather with the new setup, then it was back in Jan/Feb when we were having 50 degree weather and I didn't have the TB/Manifold/Ported Runners. I know it's not much, but hopefully that will give you an idea of the positive impact it provides.
 
Stealth said:
Unfortunately no. The closest dyno to me is about an hour away. The best I can offer is simply provide an e-dyno once my tuning is complete so that we can see what the OEM Mainfold can do on a fully bolted setup. I can confidently say that it's running stronger now in 90+ degree weather with the new setup, then it was back in Jan/Feb when we were having 50 degree weather and I didn't have the TB/Manifold/Ported Runners. I know it's not much, but hopefully that will give you an idea of the positive impact it provides.
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For $10/mo. you can edyno all you want on Vit's site just by plugging in your pulls. Just in case anyone is interested in getting snapshots. You could select a pull from the past and edyno it today.
 
That's good to know moving forward. Unfortunately for me, Vit never had me do a WOT past 5500rpm. I'm only 6 calibrations into the tuning process and all of them have been 3rd gear 1500rpm-5500rpm WOT pulls. It's killing me. I can't wait until we start working in the upper end of the powerband. I hope he can find some more power there.
 
Stealth said:
That's good to know moving forward. Unfortunately for me, Vit never had me do a WOT past 5500rpm. I'm only 6 calibrations into the tuning process and all of them have been 3rd gear 1500rpm-5500rpm WOT pulls. It's killing me. I can't wait until we start working in the upper end of the powerband. I hope he can find some more power there.
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You have barely even started tuning.
 
I know...it sucks being on the east coast and only being able to receive one calibration per night. Otherwise, I would be able to get several datalogs in per day .
 
Stealth said:
I also have the stock "plastic" Intake Manifold ported to match the new larger throttle body as well. I can try and take a picture of it as well if anyone's interested.
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Late response here but any chance you took a picture of you stock manifold ported. I've been debating on going FI or NA. I'd really like to see your numbers once your all done.
 
I didn't take a pictures of the OEM manifold ported to match the maxbore tb before I installed it. I really thought about it, but I'm not very patient and couldn't wait to get everything installed. Sorry
 
All good. I don't blame ya. Just looking at my options and what's best, I want to do a nice NA setup just not sure where to start.
 
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