Sunofwolf Random Banter Containment Thread

i got board and read some sonofwolf comments. just got done my etune with steve. he told me that staying with the stock exhaust has a trade off with power. takes power away from the top end but you gain more on the low end. also, catless isnt that bad.
 
seems like theres a trade off for literally every bolt on mod for 9th gens. You put this on - - - you gain top end power but lose a bit of torgue... you put that on youll gain mid range but top end will leave u wanting more... Catless 3” all the way for the best gains but youll b loud as hell and inhaling fumes and so on.

:(

i guess it really depends on personal preference. If youre tracking the car then maybe the stock manifold is best because of the low end torque? and if youre mostly just doing highway pulls (frwy 3rd,4th, 5th gear racing) then maybe rbc is the way to go?... i like reading these thought and seeing what people are into. mine is still completely stock under the hood and choked by two cats:paper:
 
Catted downpipe would be much better than the stock. My butt dyno tells me I have gained low end power with the catless downpipe. Tires will start spinning in 1st or 2nd at lower rpm if I punch it with Indy 500 tires.

I dont mind the smell as much as I though for a daily, and the noise it makes with the stock exhaust is actually nice. I drove around with my passenger rear window down the other day to listen. With a full 3 inch exhaust it will be loud which kind of makes me re think getting the full race cat back.
 
JAMES JANZEN said:
Catted downpipe would be much better than the stock. My butt dyno tells me I have gained low end power with the catless downpipe. Tires will start spinning in 1st or 2nd at lower rpm if I punch it with Indy 500 tires.

I dont mind the smell as much as I though for a daily, and the noise it makes with the stock exhaust is actually nice. I drove around with my passenger rear window down the other day to listen. With a full 3 inch exhaust it will be loud which kind of makes me re think getting the full race cat back.
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I loved my Full-Race catless downpipe setup with the factory exhaust system it sounded really good to me. I never really had a problem with the smell but I also never stood in traffic other than a stop light.

Idk if I just got used to my Full-Race exhaust on my PRL setup but it is not too loud until I get into boost and the wastegate cracks and at that point my car gets super loud from the dump tube.

@JesseFB6 I would personally keep the R40 intake manifold vs the RBC if you are basically stock. I ran the RBC before I got my turbo kit and definitely did not like the trade off at normal driving for the tiny HP gain at peak rpm.
 
Yeah I forgot to mention the RBC. It doesn't seem like a good idea to do that swap unless you go boosted or race a lot. High rpm power is no good on a daily and ever dyno graph I've seen with that swap shows a big loss of low and midrange power.
 
the cai 3.5 is on and there is zero downside on it just 19HP and some cool sounds. I have the 3" full exhaust with duel mufflers system just need a rmm and torque solutions mounts and a etune. Then it will have 200+HP that's about all I am doing on it for a while except tuning which will take a while. a 93 gas tune will be used. Stock tune is only for 91.:bananapop::bananasplit::guitar::pinkdomokundance: Notice the yellow top optima battery which is taller than stock leaving zero room for battery. the yellow top can go completely dead and come back over three hundred times unlike a reg battery. these Honda's have a lot of electric junk.
 

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It's not just any intake-it supposed to be the best one and its dam expensive. Real carbon fiber tuned tube, SS battery mount-its amazing and water won't get on it if you install it correctly and don't sit in a huge puddle of water. You also have to have a tune to run it.:eekdancesmiley: I am saving the stock intake and I may add compared to the CAI, its junk with black plastic.:eek: stock is 167 with CAI 186hp-those are the exact numbers on the rear wheel. ADD 3" full exhaust and down pipe maybe 210HP+ and add 93 tune maybe 215Hp rough guess. :joke:
 
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Battery looks the same height as a stock one, unless my aftermarket batter is taller too but I doubt it. If you bought the battery for your application it should have the same dimensions.
 
maybe it is the same size, it didn't fit as well as I would like. It won't move and is in a better spot back more, so its stays put I hope. There isn't really many thing you can do to make HP that doesn't cost a lot. to make everything work good, you need a tune ,CAI, and 3" pipes. just basic stuff.:squirrel:
 
eztune, but just running a hondata 3.5 CAI tune till I get the exhaust on-then I will be fine tuning it for a while, data logging, retune, data logging retune a few times. the tuning process can be kind of tricky. I don't think there are really too many people who are really good at it.:paper:
 
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Is that positive cable sitting flush? It looks like it is tilting like the power supply is pulling it.
 
I believe it is flush with the battery , I will check it out again. that red plastic is blocking the view. It's a very tight fit with zero spare room. The battery is not going to move and it took some weight off the left wheel and moved it back over a foot. A snow storm pounded us that day. One thing I don't like is access to clean the filter is not easy, but in a excellent location to keep water and junk away from the filter. Wasn't there when the mechanic finished the work. due to the storm. Worst storm of the year, 250,000 lost power, me too for 23hr-kind of rare.:bleh:
 
:thumbsup:Check it out because if it is tight when you accelerat it is going to pull on it eventually causing a loose connection. It is probably just the red cover but can't tell.
 
I found the positive cable pretty tight when I installed it too.
 
you mean too tight, not loose. The engine will move some pulling on the battery cable. Not sure if the cable have enough slack not to do that. Not sure if I will have to fix this or its ok. I look tomorrow. the yellow top is a exactly the same size as the stock battery, at least that's how it was listed-perhaps it might be slightly taller? I did drive 20 miles and the wind blew my car door into a truck while parked and slightly chipped the paint and a tinny dent. I was disappointed how weak the door metal is- the neon has a stronger door. :worms: I will take another pic with the red plastic out of the way. That was a good thought however I was concerned about how tight the battery cable was, perhaps I just need to adj the cable placement a little.
 
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If the battery cable is tight your need to pull the slack and keep it from being tight. I ignored it and caused it to pull on the clamp and damaging it to a point of not having a proper connection and killing the battery faster.
 
there is another thing need to be looked at-is how well the CAI filter is shielded from water-above and below. I may be worried about nothing, but its better to check before something goes wrong. I actually made my own water shield on the SRT-4. Another thing is my access to cleaning the filter is not a easy thing to do. I am guessing that the battery cable just needs some adj maybe or it might actually be ok the way it is. These are the questions that intend on finding the solution's. Dam nothing is easy, the cai tune for 3.5 filters is loaded, but not yet a final tune.
 
sunofwolf said:
I am saving the stock intake and I may add compared to the CAI, its junk with black plastic.:eek: stock is 167 with CAI 186hp-those are the exact numbers on the rear wheel.
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When did you convert your Civic to rear wheel drive?!?! That might be part of your problem, you're looking for power at the wrong end of the car.
 
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