Sunofwolf Random Banter Containment Thread

I think the problem is else where as the door lock works with the fob,but i try again. Where is the fuse controling the electric lock ?
 
Know body knows where the fuse is for the trunck lock? How about the lowest price on a progresive 22mm sway bar? Moog endlicks and greaseable bushing too.???
 
progressive 22mm sway bar coming $180 and moog end links greaseable and energy supension greaseable sway bar bushings in black $103. I don't want a heavy rear bar, just better than stock but really by a lot came to $279 shipped not too bad at all. This setup should be really good and once put on only maintence is to add grease. no substitute for grease. My car is now 96% -98% Hondata tuned 3.5 CAI and 3" full exhaust with hp cat. estimate HP 220-225 and 200 at the wheels when finished. Going for a full 100%.
 
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You may be right , but where is the fuse and does the trunk light circuit also power the trunk lock? I check to see if light is on then most likely it is the actuator-that dam thing is $58 shipped, I might just leave it broken because the inside manual trunk opener works fine. I also check to see that it is not getting power maybe the connection is loose that's a free fix. It's hard for me t believe the actuator has failed-I am sure it was barely used. Seemed to work then not work then stopped totally-loose wire maybe. trunk light works-does not seem to be a loose wire. What fuse controls the trunk lock? That's the last thing other than the actuator.???? Really need to know what fuse controls the trunk lock.. perhaps I need a test light.
 
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sunofwolf said:
I don't want a heavy rear bar, just better than stock but really by a lot came to $279 shipped not too bad at all.
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sunofwolf said:
I check to see if light is on then most likely it is the actuator-that dam thing is $58 shipped, I might just leave it broken because the inside manual trunk opener works fine.
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I'd get the trunk fixed. $58 is nothing compare to almost $300 for the sway bar and end links.
 
I'd get the trunk fixed too. If it was enough for you to ask us about it, then it's something that you'll grow more and more annoyed with over time if you let it go.
 
Also, I assume the trunk piggy-backs off of the door lock fuses, since there doesn't seem to be a separate one for it. Just a hunch, not 100% sure.
 
sunofwolf said:
progressive 22mm sway bar coming $180 and moog end links greaseable and energy supension greaseable sway bar bushings in black $103. I don't want a heavy rear bar, just better than stock but really by a lot came to $279 shipped not too bad at all. This setup should be really good and once put on only maintence is to add grease. no substitute for grease. My car is now 96% -98% Hondata tuned 3.5 CAI and 3" full exhaust with hp cat. estimate HP 220-225 and 200 at the wheels when finished. Going for a full 100%.
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Where did you find it? It's out of stock everywhere I've looked. Except for Redshift I think. And they were charging more than other sites.

Also, I think you should have done the 24mm if you have a 13+. My understanding is that there just isn't much of a difference between stock and the 22mm for 13+ since they upped the stock size on the 13+.
 
:driving:I had a 24 mm in my srt-4 hockiss hollow bar, the progessive 22 is a solid bar and I am also upgrading the sway bar links to energy suspension greaseable and to moog HP end links greaseable. I didn't want to pay so much dough for the 24mm that had adj end links that don't work as well as the moog does-I have zero plans on using lowering springs due to the extremely poor roads. The stock size is rear 18mm.Front sway bar is 21mm. I believe the 22mm progress is a made of higher quality steel. You want to know that the 24mm is also very heavy. Too much over steer is also dangerous for a street car. My total order was $281. For the 24mm it was $345 then another $103 for the moog end links and energy suspension bar links =$448 just too much. I bought the 22mm bar though axion for $178. I would bet this setup will work perfect. $103 for the mogg and energy black bar links with special poly. No rush to fix my trunk lock as the inside one works fine. A track car would use the 24mm, my car is street only- I don't want a touche rear end where the car could spin out in back.:party:
 
just a estimate, just getting a stock car tuned you can hit 187hp. But i have a 3.5 cai intake and 3' catted downpipe and a full 3" duel muffler-resonator catback all 3". Getting more power out of a NA motor is not very easy. i figure if want more power, I would need FI which is very expensive to do right. The car is quite fast and I haven't yet finished tuning-maybe 2-4% more with a final tune. My gas milage has gone a bit to 30mpg average. I run 93 sunoco and add lucus gas treatment.
 
progressive 22mm rear sway bar with a stock 21mm front bar will have a slight over steer-this is perfect for a street honda civic. A 24mm will have over steer. also a 24mm sway bar will ride kind of rough over bumps and is heavy. Thats way i went with 22mm rear sway bar-i don't want to ride to rough or have too much over steer or add too much weight either. A auto cross car would go for a 24mm rear sway bar. Just to show how i am thinking. Also these proigrssive bars are quite stiff and more so than stock one's.:guitar::bananawhipdance:
 
24 mm-track sway bar, 22mm perfect street sway bar-that's the difference:rotfl::spazface:
I will fix my trunk lock in due time, I have a acurity short shifter $408 and upgraded shifter bushing$70 with a essco black weighted knob with black acuirty collar to put on$113. then I will add 22mmsway bar with moog HP greaseable end links and energy suspension black polly greaseable sway bar mounts.$280. also a hasport top mount 62a $98. I am also tuning the car to perfection-at 96-98% right now. I will have a real sports coupe when this stuff is all put on. Total of $969 on add the tune $200-$1169 not include installation .:lildevil::omg::fistpump::driving:
 
sunofwolf said:
just a estimate, just getting a stock car tuned you can hit 187hp. But i have a 3.5 cai intake and 3' catted downpipe and a full 3" duel muffler-resonator catback all 3". Getting more power out of a NA motor is not very easy. i figure if want more power, I would need FI which is very expensive to do right. The car is quite fast and I haven't yet finished tuning-maybe 2-4% more with a final tune. My gas milage has gone a bit to 30mpg average. I run 93 sunoco and add lucus gas treatment.
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im assuming your estimate? because steve told me if you want 200 you'll have to go rbc intake. maybe the 93 octane and better fuel quality in the states would yield higher numbers? my mileage is averaging 33mpg with spirited driving.
 
The honda fuel milage estimate is off by 10%. But i am am still tuning the car-it should get a little better. I don't like the rbc, it is setup tp run high rpm, the stock setup works better maybe, i am not sure. I am done spending dough for on fancy parts. 93 is worth some hp for sure on a si model/
 
93 is all over the place here. There is a big difference between 91 and 93. The factory tune is only for 91 which is one reson why in stock form the car isn't make the power it really should and the compression ratio is 11.1 quite high actually for a car. Also the duel cats are horrible cork on the exhaust system-why couldn't honda put on one cat? Not to mention the awful shifter lag built into the tune. The vfr 800 is 11.5 and it runs on 87 if its really fresh gas-I use 89 in it and the stock tune on th 06vfr is fine. Later vfr 800 have traction control simply not really worth anything except in rain.The vfr 800 is the perfect honda vtec and red lines at 11750, you really feel the vtec. The vfr 800 holds some very impressive long distance records that no body can match in a motorcycle. It is honda's masterpeice in vtec v4.
 
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