Tak - The <3 of my 9th Gen Civic FB2

I got some BS going on.

My friend has a 17” rim so I dropped it to the tire shop where I bought them.

It also turns out the tire itself is bad too.
The tire shop confirmed that the leak is closed to side wall and it bubbles up.
I asked for warranty replacement since the tire is last than 1 year.
They said since I ran flat for a bit, it’s my own fault. I was like. I ran flat with less than a mile to go the tire shop where they helped replacing it with a donut.

I’m just gonna get a new tire myself and ask a different shop to remount it.

Also I got the deal for a new rim for replacement. It will be arrived shortly.
 
Glad you got the wheel figured out.. and sucks to hear about the tire company.. almost any place will try to find a way out of their warranties
 
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Updated status:

I got a new white rim replacement. Mounted the previous Bridgestone tire. All is well now.

Since this rim is a kinda discontinued, I may get another new one. I will put the new one on and then save a good old one as a spare.
 
webby said:
So the tire wasn’t bad after all?
Click to expand...
The tire is bad. They said it bubbles on a side wall in one particular area. The shop I bought new tires last year didn’t want to provide warranty or attempt to try. They said I have run flat for a bit because it showed signs on sidewall. BS. They could’ve told me on the first day when I asked them for help. All they said on the first day was it’s the bent rim and I feel now this is the way they sent customer home.

When I bought all new 4 tires last year, I kept the old pair of Bridgestone. Now it comes in handy. I just reused one. I may mount another one to make them running a pair.
 
Sorry you had to deal with it all. I’m sure others can sympathize with tire shop situations and warranties. At least you got your rim, so that’s good.
 
I would like to tweak the following alignment to get some better cornering performances.


street mild
Front camber -1’ (negative 1?)
Rear camber -0.8 - 1.5’ (Negative 0.8 -1.5?)

I asked around the shops for the alignment but all of them rejected the custom camber. They all said they follow the computer spec.

What kind of shop should I look for?
Thanks
 
search for like an aftermarket garage / tuner shop type of place. I have no idea how far this is from you in "nyc", but it's something that came up when I searched

Suspension & Steering Maintenance Services - VW, Audi, BMW, Mini Cooper, Porsche, Volkswagen

TyrolSport offers Suspension Upgrades, Performance Modifications, Clunk/Squeak Repair, Installations for VW, Audi, BMW, Mini Cooper, Porsche, Volkswagen and other Suspension & Steering Maintenance Services.
www.tyrolsport.com
 
@webby

My Honda friend brought me to a guy who always does Honda’s car alignment. He dialed the rear camber back with -1.5 camber. But the front can’t be dialed. I even had Moog camber bolt installed. He said he tried but just can’t for some reasons. He said we can retry with another camber bolts and see. I told him let’s hold on first. He suspects there’s some kind of problem with my front suspension.

As you guys are aware, I have hit a few pot holes this past year. One major one was that I got a rear passenger side rim bent and tire damaged a month ago.

I’m not sure why the front was having issue to dial the camber to negative correctly. Right now the front he dialed meets the factory specs though.

Just let you know. This is a second alignment. There was another alignment a couple of months ago right before I got a rear rim bent. There were different readings on the front set completely

I suspect there are more bent that causes different alignment readings on front and causes the guy can’t dial the front camber.

Perhaps the strut or hub is slightly bent that isn’t noticeable? Perhaps the rims as well?

I would love to hear your thoughts. Thank you

8E0F8EDF-94BD-4E01-9714-834519A5A99E.jpeg
 
from your first post on this thread, are you on -
" -HFP suspension with KSport washers for R18"

If I'm looking at the same moog camber bolts that you have, it appears it can go up to -1.25 degrees of negative camber maybe? You were already at -0.6 on the front right. He couldn't get it to go to -1 or whatever you wanted so he put it back to within oem spec? I couldn't really say as to why he couldn't get it to go further, unless you do have something else that is potentially bent? Do you have a part # or link to the moog bolts you have?
 
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from your first post on this thread, are you on -
webby said:
" -HFP suspension with KSport washers for R18"

If I'm looking at the same moog camber bolts that you have, it appears it can go up to -1.25 degrees of negative camber maybe? You were already at -0.6 on the front right. He couldn't get it to go to -1 or whatever you wanted so he put it back to within oem spec? I couldn't really say as to why he couldn't get it to go further, unless you do have something else that is potentially bent? Do you have a part # or link to the moog bolts you have?
Click to expand...
I probably think you actually answered my question.

I think this is a factory spec alignment bolt from Moog. I just asked my friend and he gave me #, Moog 90474. I looked it up and information says it restores camber back to factory spec. So I think this guy who does Honda alignment has dialed the front correctly, as this bolt doesn’t have more to give.

So now. I’m going to order the camber bolt myself. I am going to leave my car with this spec for now (send it) and will get this guy redial the front in next month or two.


Which camber bolt do you recommend in this case? I just need to dial -1 at max for some cornering performance.

Thank you
 
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I know a lot of users have used spc camber bolts, but I see no reason there would be something wrong with the moog camber bolts either. Just get the ones that obviously aren't moog oem replacement bolts.
 
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@webby

I just ordered SPC camber bolt 81260.

I have also been thinking about replacing the suspension components this summer. The current HFP strut/shock took a lot of beating. I’m thinking about going two options

1. Remove HFP spring then put KYB excel-G strut/shock
2. KYB excel G strut/shock with Eibach pro (not sport line)

I don’t need an expensive coilover for a daily driving.

I already bought the oem ball joints. I may put them on with the new shock setup with new camber bolt all together.

Is there any bushing in the suspension I will also need to replace? How about tie rod?

Love to hear your thoughts . Thanks
 
someone with some more knowledge on the suspension/bushings will need to chime in because I'm not sure
 
I believe @Janz3n works as a mechanic, or maybe @ron v who does a lot of wrenching would be able to give you feedback on bushings etc? ^. Or anyone else who’d like to chime in?
 
Replacing bushings will probably only be worth the time and money if you upgrade. Depending on mileage and condition of the bushings it may not be worth doing at this time. There are only two bushings per side in the front on the lower control arms.
 
After I got a rim bent on right rear passenger last month, so today the right front passenger side shows two crack lines in inner lips. I know those two crack lines were not showing up before. I even had alignment done last week. I was under the car inspecting rims myself.

So today I replaced with another spare rim. I bought a couple of dr-33 as spare couple of weeks ago.

However, I don’t understand why I keep getting rim bent on right side. I’ve had drag dr33 for five years. No bent whatsoever until now.

My friend said it has to be the right side front strut and rear shock blowing up soon. Both rims took all the force during impact because the right strut/shock can’t compress properly any longer.

What’s your thought on this? Is it really time I should replace strut/shock? Thanks
 
You could have just hit a pothole on the right side?
 
Tak said:
After I got a rim bent on right rear passenger last month, so today the right front passenger side shows two crack lines in inner lips. I know those two crack lines were not showing up before. I even had alignment done last week. I was under the car inspecting rims myself.

So today I replaced with another spare rim. I bought a couple of dr-33 as spare couple of weeks ago.

However, I don’t understand why I keep getting rim bent on right side. I’ve had drag dr33 for five years. No bent whatsoever until now.

My friend said it has to be the right side front strut and rear shock blowing up soon. Both rims took all the force during impact because the right strut/shock can’t compress properly any longer.

What’s your thought on this? Is it really time I should replace strut/shock? Thanks
Click to expand...

Hey Tak,

When you had the HFP suspension installed on your civic, did you notice the car being more bouncy?
 
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