Tak - The <3 of my 9th Gen Civic FB2

[webby]

No clue man. I don’t want to say yes, and then a belt snap or something else goes wrong.

 

[fahnix]

Hey Tak, I noticed that you did the 2013 Si OEM rear sway swap. How's that holding up? Did that bolt right up?

Also, were you able to find 93401-10020-008 - Stabilizer Holder Bolts, or did you reuse the old ones? That part number doesn't seem to pull up anything other than posts regarding this swap.

EDIT: Was it actually 93401-10020-08 - Bolt-Washer (10x20)?

 

[Tak]

No clue man. I don’t want to say yes, and then a belt snap or something else goes wrong.

Ok. So it’s confirmed by my friends mechanics shop. The AC compressor pulley is burnt and the belt is shot. The belt has a bit damage underneath.

So I need a new belt and new AC compressor.

I can’t believe they die that early. My car just reaches 66k miles. It’s probably a daily driven car with abuse?!

Glad it’s gonna be fixed today. Awaiting my friend calling me back to pick up the car.

Thanks again


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[Tak]

Hey Tak, I noticed that you did the 2013 Si OEM rear sway swap. How's that holding up? Did that bolt right up?

Also, were you able to find 93401-10020-008 - Stabilizer Holder Bolts, or did you reuse the old ones? That part number doesn't seem to pull up anything other than posts regarding this swap.

EDIT: Was it actually 93401-10020-08 - Bolt-Washer (10x20)?

I forgot the parts # information. I got all the oem parts (rear sway bar, end link bracket and brusher ) from Honda parts website all at the same time and dropped it to shop for installation.


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[fahnix]

Right on. Thanks for the response!

Good thing it was only the AC compressor!

 

[Tak]

Right on. Thanks for the response!

Good thing it was only the AC compressor!

You are welcome.

I swap the rear with all parts at the same time to avoid problem. Because my friend says mine is a r18. If I try to use some parts from r18 with Si, it may not work well at the end. So I ordered all parts together then did a whole swap for worry free.

Yes lucky the problem is a AC compressor plus a belt [emoji23]


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[Tak]

So my AC compressor pulley broke and it's partially seized the belt at 66k on my r18 which I found early. I thought this thing start showing failures at 100k. Now I am wrong and need a lesson learned.

As a preventative maintenance, how often do we check the belt and those pulleys? How often do we check and replace the belt? Is it until we see or hear the noise? What is the best way to keep them running optimal?

Thanks


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[DerWeißeTeufel]

So my AC compressor pulley broke and it's partially seized the belt at 66k on my r18 which I found early. I thought this thing start showing failures at 100k. Now I am wrong and need a lesson learned.

As a preventative maintenance, how often do we check the belt and those pulleys? How often do we check and replace the belt? Is it until we see or hear the noise? What is the best way to keep them running optimal?

Thanks


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That's a good question. I'm curious myself too.

 

[Honda-Fan]

I can only give out these basics:

Check your belts after the 60K mark; OEM replacement is Bando's "Rib-Ace", which is pretty inexpensive. Ones with heavy exposure to elements go at the earliest part of the 'watch cycle', ones that are in more even-tempered climates will last until about 100K. Best way to spot a potential failure early is if you see any obvious-yet-numerous instances of cracking (See pic) in the grooves when you're under the hood. When I changed my belt out at about 95K -- it had cracks all over; No noise, but definitely a hazard.

There are technically 'treatments' for belts that soften the rubber to reduce wear, but the problem is that protectants will eventually get all over your pulleys, and there's a potential for the rubber to swell, too. You sorta pick your poison.

 

[Tak]

Hello

I was trying to install Megan Racing front lower tie bar and H brace with my friend at his shop. We got the H brace installed with under tray cover staying. We just cut holes where the bolt is.

But when we were trying to install the front lower tie, we were running into issues. It looks like the bolt can’t be removed. It’s like it’s stripped inside.

What should I do in this case? How can we remove the bolt? Which bolt in the diagram should I buy a new one? Thanks

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[Tak]

So the bolts on both front control arms are stripped/seized no matter what my friend, his superior and I tried it in two different shops. It’s due to rust. We couldn’t take out the bolts. I’ve brought my car to two different shops of my friend in attempt to remove the bolts. As nobody could remove the bolts, I concluded and confirmed to cut the front control arms and replaced them with the new Moog front control arm. I used the existing ball joint as the stock one still looks good for now. The front lower tie bar is installed at the same time with the new front control arm. I also got the Moog front end link installed. The stock oem front endlink was also bad. I’ve been hearing the clunking noise since early this year. Alignment was also being done. This is how I wrapped my cars project in 2020.

Early 2021, I will replace the sway bars with a larger Si sway bars. I got the si sway bar from my friend's wreck car. I thought I could wrap this project up too before the end of the year. But the package for new oem bushing was delayed due to USPS.

In 2021, I will be focusing more on maintenance work, such as replacing ball joints, shocks, spark plugs, battery, etc. I will also save some $ to get my car repainted in a few areas such as right rear passenger door, front bumper, trunk lid, side skirts.

Year 2020 has been a bad year. Let’s move forward and wish everyone well and healthy in 2021. Let’s keep modifying and keep up good works.

 

[Tak]

This week is Chinese New Year. My friends and I were bored and we did a thing. I added an aftermarket reverse cam connecting to the eBay Android head unit. Working as expected. Beers and smile after the job.

 

[webby]

Nicely done tak. You may be of some help to all of the people with their head unit. Is it a brand name, or a “chinese” unit you commonly see for sale on eBay for pretty cheap? A lot of people have struggled to get them to function 100%.

 

[Tak]

I got the Android head unit on ebay. It’s an non brand name Android head unit from China. I picked 32GB instead of 16GB. I was trying to get the 64GB at that time but it was sold out.

This head unit comes with all the harness. It’s plug n play on my 2012 civic. The steering wheel buttons work fine.

I replaced the launcher with “car launcher free” because I don’t like the stock launcher. This launcher is a bit customizable. The paid one can let you customize more. I’m happy with the free one.

The reverse cam is also from eBay. We ran the wire from the brake light to the input in the head unit. The night view is working as expected too. The only minor thing is the bracket that comes with doesn’t fit the hole of license plate. We just got a bolt and screwed it in the trim to call it day. So it’s off center just 1” inch to right. No big deal. If I could find a right bracket on eBay in the future, I could redo this minor part. The most importance is the reverse camera is working as expected.

I’m attaching some screenshots from my eBay so others can reference it.

 

[Verzerrung]

That is very cheap and seems like a good deal for the head unit. My concerns are does it lags/freeze and how do you connect service to it for maps/music, etc, Thanks for sharing this!

 

[fahnix]

I got the Android head unit on ebay. It’s an non brand name Android head unit from China. I picked 32GB instead of 16GB. I was trying to get the 64GB at that time but it was sold out.

This head unit comes with all the harness. It’s plug n play on my 2012 civic. The steering wheel buttons work fine.

I replaced the launcher with “car launcher free” because I don’t like the stock launcher. This launcher is a bit customizable. The paid one can let you customize more. I’m happy with the free one.

The reverse cam is also from eBay. We ran the wire from the brake light to the input in the head unit. The night view is working as expected too. The only minor thing is the bracket that comes with doesn’t fit the hole of license plate. We just got a bolt and screwed it in the trim to call it day. So it’s off center just 1” inch to right. No big deal. If I could find a right bracket on eBay in the future, I could redo this minor part. The most importance is the reverse camera is working as expected.

I’m attaching some screenshots from my eBay so others can reference it.

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That is very cheap and seems like a good deal for the head unit. My concerns are does it lags/freeze and how do you connect service to it for maps/music, etc, Thanks for sharing this!

Same question. My hesitation to go to an aftermarket unit was that I often use the steering wheel controls and iMid. If that all works this becomes far more viable.

 

[Tak]

Same question. My hesitation to go to an aftermarket unit was that I often use the steering wheel controls and iMid. If that all works this becomes far mo

That is very cheap and seems like a good deal for the head unit. My concerns are does it lags/freeze and how do you connect service to it for maps/music, etc, Thanks for sharing this!

@Verzerrung
Most of the times in general, the head unit is running very smooth, although there are times it requires reboot such as Bluetooth stop pairing. I have a paper clip ready and use it to reset the unit when that happens.

To use the head unit, I turn on Bluetooth and hotspot on my iPhone. I use the Bluetooth for calling and music. The hotspot is to provide the internet access for the head unit if necessary. I can use YouTube in the unit via hotspot to play music.

The head unit comes with Google Map. This built in Google Map uses the GPS for destination routes. When I updated it to the latest Google Map, it changed to use internet data and that latest Google map stopped using the head unit’s GPS. I reverted back to stock Google Map, although it seems it doesn’t provide the live traffic. I can turn on the Bluetooth and use Google Map on my iPhone then use mirror link to share the screen.

@fabian the steering button works for me. I can press volume up and down to increase/decrease the volume; press source button to change to different screens in the head unit. The stock imidi still works to provide me the current time, mileage, current mpg etc.

If you guys want, I can do a short video about using it and share with you guys here. Thanks

 

[Tak]

I’ve been arranging time and a shop to get my passenge rear door repaint that blends to front passenger door and rear quarter panel. I will treat this as my birthday gift.

My car has been fixed by a geico shop in the past. Last time when I got rear ended, they replaced my rear bumper and I asked them to refinish the left side. So now more than half of the left side has fresh paint and clear coat plus rear bumper.

Should I go back to the same geico shop to refinish the right side in this case?

I’m worried that if I use another shop, the paint will be off, in which, for example, the left may be whiter than the right. I’m thinking because different shops may mix paint or use paint materials differently.

What’s your thought and opinion?

Thanks

 

[webby]

If the last place did a good job I would return to them. Simple as that

 

[Tak]

If the last place did a good job I would return to them. Simple as that

The paint job was good. I mean that is not Macco cheap paint job on the taxi. It cost some $$$ when I have refinished the left rear passenger door side because I had them fixed other paint problem. When I got a quote to refinish the right rear passenger door, price was a bit expensive than other shops. I prefer using the same shop but the price isn’t ideal. I’m trying to see if other shops could get the similar result with less $. But I’m worried that with using two shops, the color on left and the right side will be off due to certain facts like different paint materials or paint techniques.