Line output converter

[Bulkybear]

Bump

 

[TysonBriggs]

First off, if you are adding any, AND I MEAN ANY, after market sub. You disconnect the factory sub and never think of it again. you are going to create more issues, and there is nothing positive that is going to come from it. If you are planning on using a simple inline, be prepared to not be wowed. to put it in perspective you just bought a 60 inch plasma and all you have to watch on it is non hd youtube. I have personally done several oem integration over the years, and I'm never going to do again on a car that costs less than a years salary. The idea sounds great at first, and then you hear the final product and are told for x amount more it will sound better and it never ends.First issue is the signal to the speaker, then come the engine noise associated with gain on the two units being to high. Two ways to go about keeping the factory deck, full system or just a Sub. Just a sub, is the best case scenario, but you still need a oem integration piece that is going to replicate the frequencies you need for the sub. There are some great pieces out there, but you are going to spend almost as much as a nice after market head unit, and its just not worth it in a honda civic. This is coming form a guy who is happy as hell to drive his 2012 civic everyday, but the cost isn't justified. All the pieces are there and cheep to replace the unit. If you are stuck on keeping the factory unit, be prepared to spend 200 on good a unit, 120 for labor, and another 100 on parts. this is on top of the equipment costs and amp kit. this is if you want it to sound great. I could recomend you a good deck, 4 speakers and sub, 5 channel amp for a $1000, you are dropping $500 in just keeping the deck.


Not my car, not my money, and I hate the preachers that get on forums. I am just a 30 year old guy who never stopped loving car audio. If you would like some guidance from a guy who just went through all the options a week ago, and is more than willing to get you on the right track send me a message. I know a little about a lot, but when it comes 12 volt audio I'm 3 feet tall and green.

 

[9thgizzyguy]

If u connect to ur factory sub yes when u lower the bass it can affect the sound.. also that line is amplified so it can and posibly burn out the converter over time so just tap into your left or right rear speaker and lower or disconnect your factory sub which i just lowered because i have my sounds on a switch so i dont have to have pounding bass at all times bro so if your only doin a sub in the trunk ull have 4 wires from the converter so u dont have to do left and right just put both positives and both negatives together and connect to 1 speaker left or right dont matter ull get the same signal

 

[Bulkybear]

Well I tapped into one of the rear speakers and it sounded the same just not as loud, had to turn the gain all the way up on the amp to get decent sound so I went back to the sub channel. The sub is moving at lower frequencies so I think the sub channel cuts off lower than 20hz if at all. I think the lack of low end is probably just a trait of the sub and box I got. Its an infinity reference 10 in a .77 cubic ft sealed box. My last system was 2 diamond 12s on about 2000 watts so I think I'll just have to get used to it. I'm planning on upgrading the head just don't know when. Thx for all the suggestions.

 

[9thgizzyguy]

Np bro good luck with the rest like it was said b4 its all about wat uprefer with your setup

 

[Bulkybear]

So ended up ditching the 10 and amp I just got for a diamond 600.1 mono amp and a diamond d3 12 wired to 1 ohm in a stinger ported box. I'm now content. And the sub channel of the stock amp is full range below somewhere around 80hz.

 

[9thgizzyguy]

nice man just keep an eye on that converter ok because some coverters are not made or cant handle the load of a tapped amplified setup they make them now but u gotta spend a lil more to get a good one ...
glad your happy with your setup if your happy we're all happy lol

 

[9thgizzyguy]

i added 6 spekers to my setup so i used an audio control crossover which is ajustable with different chips and i think already came dropping my lows @ 80hz
not sure tho i never tried the other chips i have but im happy with how it sounds nice and clear and tons of bass

 

[Bulkybear]

Yeah mine flexes the whole car. If the loc goes out I'll just get another. They can't be more than 15 bucks for the cheap ones.

 

[Bulkybear]

OK. Still bothered me so I did some testing. Ran a 25hz straight tone with the loc wired to my sub channel. Sub barely moved. Took a signal straight from my phone sub moved a lot. Took a signal from my rear right speaker. Barely moved. So the factory amp must be attenuating signal below 50hz or so to keep damage from stock speakers. So where can I get a full range signal for my loc? I noticed the color codes change for the wires from the head unit to the amp than from the amp to speakers. Can I tap into a signal before the factory amp? Which wires? Assuming the amp is what's attenuating signal and not the head.

 

[Bulkybear]

OK guys I need your help badly. I've been trying to tap into the wires going from the head to the amp. Can't find a color chart on it but I can't get any signal at all through my loc from the pre amp harness.

 

[webby]

jasonandre - any chance you have a wire chart for the stock amp?

 

[Bulkybear]

Or tell me this. Are there any pots or anything in the stock amp to adjust the crossover and gains?

 

[webby]

wish I had the answers to help you

 

[Bulkybear]

Meeee too. I've been to best buy and the dealership. I seriously think I'm the most knowledgeable person in my area on this stuff lol. To make matters worse I'm pretty sure the stock head unit uses differential balanced output (think that's what its called) which would be incompatible with most aftermarket amps. So even if I found the signal wires I doubt I would get anything through it. My best bet is to keep the gain down and wait till Christmas to get an aftermarket head.

 

[webby]

maybe shoot ron a message about where his taps in? I'm guessing his loc is quite a bit different than what you're using though? Post 7
http://www.9thcivic.com/forum/threads/add-sub-and-amp-to-navi-in-ex-l.3816/

 

[Bulkybear]

Good idea. He said he had his installer do all the work though so he may not know

 

[webby]

But he could trace the connection made by the installer to see where they tapped in.

 

[9thgizzyguy]

Man this is weird on whynthis is being a pain to u ?
Everything worked fine for me the first time around
Test that loc to make sure its workin fine but from wat i understand stock amps in cars are not crossover ajustable they would never do that because they know us owners would mess with it lol
Make sure ur 2ohm amp is set up right ok plus make sure the sub is dual vioce coiled with two speaker connections because if it does not have that it wont work @ 2ohms only 4ohms and wont be able to handle the amp @ 2ohms
And make sure - and + speaker wire on the amp is correct because amps these days are smart if they sence - and + speaker wires are reversed polarity the amp will auto shut off as a safety precaution so u wont blow a channel on the amp ...

Hope some of that helps in somway bro sorry ur going through this i hate when things dont go my way so i feel your pain .

 

[Bulkybear]

Man this is weird on whynthis is being a pain to u ?
Everything worked fine for me the first time around
Test that loc to make sure its workin fine but from wat i understand stock amps in cars are not crossover ajustable they would never do that because they know us owners would mess with it lol
Make sure ur 2ohm amp is set up right ok plus make sure the sub is dual vioce coiled with two speaker connections because if it does not have that it wont work @ 2ohms only 4ohms and wont be able to handle the amp @ 2ohms
And make sure - and + speaker wire on the amp is correct because amps these days are smart if they sence - and + speaker wires are reversed polarity the amp will auto shut off as a safety precaution so u wont blow a channel on the amp ...

Hope some of that helps in somway bro sorry ur going through this i hate when things dont go my way so i feel your pain .

Yeah everything is set right. Polarity is correct. Sub is wired in parallel down to 1 ohm which my amp is stable at. Its definitely the signal I'm getting. Wired up my phone aux cable into the LOC and it played all frequencies I put to it. I'd bet yours is doing the same thing you just don't notice it. I'll bet if you play some bass mekanik on your radio then grap a friend with a aftermarket deck and grab his pre amp outputs you'll notice a very big difference in the way the sub reacts to the low notes.