The official "Ask a Detailer Thread"

[RaskyR1]

RaskyR1
Hey Rasky... I don't know if you can answer these or not. A couple detail forums have been less than helpful......

Do you know anything about the new Optimum Opti-Erasers? I'm looking to switch over from clay to one of the new products and I'm stuck between the SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel and the Opti-Erasers.

From what I read, without trying either yet, I can use any clay lube and I should be ok? I've got lots of the Dodo Slippy concentrate left.
(Other than the nano-skin stuff that says to specifically use their glide lube)

For the Eraser..... It says if it has contaminates on the face to wipe them off with a cloth? Would a dunk in water be better?

And lastly... with the Prep Towel... since I refold and get new pieces of clay to "bury" the contaminates so im not scraping them back against the paint.... Do I need to occasionally clean off the towel? Dunk in a bucket or just spray it off? Or do they particles become embedded in the towel and you just use it until you need to replace it?

Thanks man.

I've not tried the Optimum Erasers yet but I did order the CarPro PolyShave Decon Block, just haven't tried it yet. For the Prep Towel I have been spraying it with Glide after each section, probably a little wasteful of product, but a dunk in the water would probably do the same, though it would be saturated with water then. (note you don't want to wring out these towels).

For the block I would maybe dunk it in water and wipe it with a towel, just to be sure you are removing anything that may be clinging to the block.


Wish I could be more help, just haven't tired the blocks as I've been so happy with the towel.

 

[RaskyR1]

Any recommendations on how to deep clean the windshield? I have these "spots" that only show up when it's raining and the wipers swipe on the glass. Makes the windshield kind of "blurry".

You could try at least claying and maybe even polishing it with a mild polish.

Lately I've been using the Nanoskin pads on cars when they come in as I just slap them on the DA and have at it...saves lots of time and effort. Then I follow it up with a polish on the DA as well. For major defects you would need actual glass polish and pads.

 

[RaskyR1]

Yea, I think im going to get the speedy prep towel but its like $60 and the opti-eraser is only $20. Much rather lose $20 on something that isn't that great or well tested yet. The reviews on the towel seem good so far.

The towel does have a big up front cost, which is why I say it's geared more for detailers rather than consumers. However, you'll get 50+ uses from the towel where I toss clay after one use.

 

[Nix]

Awesome thanks man! I'm ordering the towel then!

 

[Nix]

I have like 6 cars to keep up from "customers." It'll definitely be put to use.

 

[RaskyR1]

Awesome thanks man! I'm ordering the towel then!

Be sure to use it on the glass first to break it in and test a section on the paint to see if it's marring before doing the whole car. You don't need a lot of pressure and I've only used the Glide for lube....can't comment on how well other lubes work with it.

I ALWAYS polish after using clay and the same goes for the towel...I've only seen light marring on a couple cars so far.

 

[PainSoFamiliar]

Would Sanding headlights with 2000 grit sandpaprr and them polishing with meguiars ultimate compound work to restore them?

 

[RaskyR1]

Would Sanding headlights with 2000 grit sandpaprr and them polishing with meguiars ultimate compound work to restore them?

That really depends on the condition of the headlight. Also keep in mind that there is a UV coating on the polycarbonate lens. If you sand with 2000 grit you run a decent chance of remove it, depending on how much you actually sand that is, and unless you reapply a new UV coating the lens may yellow in a short period of time.

Is the lens faded, pitted, yellowing? Most cars that come in my shop I just polish which improves clarity and then I coat them with Opti-Coat for some added protection. I really don't offer true headlight restoration as a service at this time, as the demand just isn't there for me.

Optimum did just release a new product called Opti-Lens, though I question whether it offers the type of protection that a true headlight restoration UV coating does.

For true headlight restoration, David Sylican with Innovative Detailing in Orange County California is the most knowledgeable person I know for the job.
http://www.innovativedetailing.com/headlight-lens-restoration/


Cheers,
Rasky

 

[TheSlowAndTheSerious]

Well snow season is coming to an end in Jersey by the looks of it, I just got my white FG4 about a month and a half ago. I'm pretty sure the wax from the dealership is still holding up by the looks of it when I wash it but when should I get my first detail? It saw quite a bit of snow in that short span of time, and I know salt isnt the best thing to come in contact with. Also, I dont have any paint protection film =[ and theres soooooooo many little rock chips on my front bumper/fenders. They're barely noticeable unless you're up close to it but still bothers me, will that buff out? I'm a complete noob when it comes to detailing and stuff so this is going to be major help. Thanks!

 

[webby]

If your fingernail catches in a spot, it will not buff out.

 

[Nix]

(I just stole the pics for the post, I don't own all 3 machines)
Pick one...

Pick your poison....

Then....

Before/After....

 

[PainSoFamiliar]

If only DAs werent so expensive

 

[Monk]

If only DAs werent so expensive

Just ask yourself how much you'd charge someone if you were going to do it........

 

[PainSoFamiliar]

Just ask yourself how much you'd charge someone if you were going to do it........

True, but I'll never have time for that.

 

[webby]

 

[Nix]

If only DAs werent so expensive

$100-ish each.

 

[Pauly99to17]

What do you guys use to clean rims in between spokes in those difficult to get places? Is there some kind of thin brush you recommend?

Edit: Oops....excuse my laziness, it seems someone may have already answered this question.

 

[Monk]

What do you guys use to clean rims in between spokes in those difficult to get places? Is there some kind of thin brush you recommend?

Edit: Oops....excuse my laziness, it seems someone may have already answered this question.

This is a must in my opinion
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/daytona-wheel-brush.html

 

[TJ___90]

what do you think guys? which component and which pad? from rasky article. I say my condition is light to light+ even if its more than that and I cant see it I'll be just happy with some correction and nice gloss. I dont wanna take the chance to damadge out light paint also I have a tiffta white so it wont show alot and thats good. so which should I go with or there is something better now?

Finishing polish and finishing pads: Used for light to moderate defect removal such as shallow swirls and light oxidation or as the final step in a multi-step correction. Some examples of finishing polishes are: Meguiar’s M205, Optimum Hyper Spray Polish, Poorboy’s SSR1, Menzerna Power Finish, Menzerna 106fa, Menzerna Final Finish, and Menzerna PO85RD. For the pairing, examples of finishing pads include Lake Country black, Lake Country blue, and Lake Country crimson.

 

[Nix]

Do you already have a machine to polish with? Doing it by hand will be very long and hard.

If so.....

Try:

Meguiars 205 on a flat Lake Country white pad


Or

Sonax Nano Tech Paint Cleaner on a Lake Country Hydro Tech Crimson pad