trustdestruction's '12 Si FB6 Build

[trustdestruction]

Installed the Hybrid Racing base bushings using the DIY posted on our forum. It took about an hour. I took some extra time to inspect the pivot ball and to also make sure not to drop and/or lose any bolt.s

The MTEC pivot ball was clearly not going to fit once I saw the shifter box up close… the diameter of the hole in its center is much smaller on our Civics than on the DC5/RSX shifter box.

Turns out the base bushings are solid metal, just like the other brands. If I remember correctly, the hybrid racing bushings were cheaper than Corsport or other brands. They also included new hardware.

New base bushings (left package):


Disassembled, stock bushings ready to be removed:


Old and New:


Installed:


Reassembly:

 

[trustdestruction]

I also installed the Hybrid Racing cable bushings. Very simple, especially since I had already been in this area of the car before when I did the shift springs. It takes about 30 minutes. Don't forget to plug the MAF sensor back in like I just realized I did. *runs to garage to fix*

So, the shifter feels AMAZING after installing all of this:
MTEC Industries Sport Shift Springs
Hybrid Racing Shifter Cable Bushings
Hybrid Racing Shfiter Box Base Bushings

Now I await actually driving the car tomorrow in the morning (gf is currently parked behind me… Civic is in the garage), and my Mugen knob.

New bushings (right package):


Old:


New:

 

[trustdestruction]

Drove it today to work and the throw feels shorter... it's not possible for the throw to be shorter for it to engage after these mods, but since there is less play it shortens the overall throw since the shifter can't really move further forward or backward after engaging the gear.

I was considering doing a short shifter but this is more than adequate. The throw is already pretty short stock, but this makes it feel even better.

 

[trustdestruction]

Got the Mugen knob in the mail today. I'm unsure if it is genuine or not. It has a lot of signs pointing towards real and a few pointing towards not.

It looks real and feels real and very solid. The quality is superb. It is definitely CNC'd aluminum and it was manufacturered perfectly, free of any defects. It feels the correct weight according to the thread where someone weighed a 8th gen Mugen Si knob (which has the same design). The numbers are laser etched, they will not scratch off. Also, it was shipped from Japan and the seller claims it is genuine.

However, it did not come in a Mugen labeled box, but rather a plain white box, except for a japanese marking. But then again the counterfeiters usually make a fake label. Also, it was bought on eBay. I bought the 5-speed version of the same knob on eBay a few years ago, and it was good quality too. Never knew if it was real or not either. It was $68 which is expensive but not exactly what a price of a Mugen knob is on King Motorsports. Could just be a good deal.

So, I plan on keeping it because it is great, but I am unsure if it is actually genuine. Thoughts?

Packing boxes:


Knob:

 

[deveinonmystick]

Got the Mugen knob in the mail today. I'm unsure if it is genuine or not. It has a lot of signs pointing towards real and a few pointing towards not.

It looks real and feels real and very solid. The quality is superb. It is definitely CNC'd aluminum and it was manufacturered perfectly, free of any defects. It feels the correct weight according to the thread where someone weighed a 8th gen Mugen Si knob (which has the same design). The numbers are laser etched, they will not scratch off. Also, it was shipped from Japan and the seller claims it is genuine.

However, it did not come in a Mugen labeled box, but rather a plain white box, except for a japanese marking. But then again the counterfeiters usually make a fake label. Also, it was bought on eBay. I bought the 5-speed version of the same knob on eBay a few years ago, and it was good quality too. Never knew if it was real or not either. It was $68 which is expensive but not exactly what a price of a Mugen knob is on King Motorsports. Could just be a good deal.

So, I plan on keeping it because it is great, but I am unsure if it is actually genuine. Thoughts?

Packing boxes:
View attachment 15643 View attachment 15644

Knob:
View attachment 15640 View attachment 15641 View attachment 15642

dude even if its genuine or not who cares?? that S**T looks freakin DOPE!!! I was actually looking to get the same one still cant decide whether that one u have or carbon fiber with red stripe. again looks DOPE.

 

[trustdestruction]

Haha thanks! I plan on keeping it but I really just want to know. I messaged the seller. I don't know if i'll get the truth but at least i'll get an "explanation".

 

[trustdestruction]

Hmm. I re-read the description on eBay. Seller clearly states in the description:

"This knob is BRAND NEW but the original packaging was damaged by earthquake
We will pack it professionally and carefully with other box"

It was shipped from Japan and there was that huge earthquake last year so that makes sense.

The listing even says the Mugen part number and specifies the diameter and weight, which are consistent with real Mugen, and the item I received appears to have these specs. The listing says the shift pattern is laser-etched. The one I received is definitely laser-etched. They even mention that they are selling them at a 50% discount (which I attribute to the packaging probably) and list the MSRP. Usually fakes don't even mention the MSRP in the listing because it looks fishy when they are selling for 90% off.

I am 99.9% convinced that it's genuine. The 0.1% doubt that remains is simply due to the fact that Mugen parts are commonly faked and sometimes it is really hard to tell. But they aren't faked this well (the knob is flawless and very high quality), and I have never heard of a fake mugen part that did not come with fake packaging and label. The seller's reason for the makeshift packaging sounds legit. It was packaged well, just not in a Mugen (or fake Mugen) box.

 

[webby]

very nice updates in the last few pages!

 

[trustdestruction]

Ordered the Corsport red Honda emblem combo. Last appearance mod besides wheels and then it's all performance. Still got the brake lines on the way, and those along with a clutch line, new brake fluid, speed bleeders, and hopefully springs (if I can buy all of that by then) should get installed over memorial day weekend when I visit my dad's house (he has way more tools and garage space than I do).

 

[trustdestruction]

More parts on the way... P2R braided steel clutch line and some Speed Bleeders for all four calipers and the brake slave cylinder.

To those looking to do the speed bleeders, after comparing part numbers I found that our brake calipers (9th gen Si, likely the other trim levels too) do not use the same bleeders on all 4 calipers like the 8th gen Si (and other trims?) does.

Our front bleeder screws are Honda part #45215-671-672 (M10 x 1.0 x 34.44) - the same as the '08 element (and many others... 4 cyl Accord, etc.). Our rear bleeder screws are #43352-SM4-951 (M10 x 1.25 x 34.44); these are the ones the 8th gen uses on all 4 calipers. Our civic uses the same clutch slave cylinder bleeder as the 8th gen, part #43352-567-000 (M8 x 1.25 x 32.54).


Speed bleeders:
https://www-speedbleeder-zoovy-com....qqgkW/s=www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/category//

F: SB1010
R: SB10125
C: SB8125L

 

[Dar-Dar]

Good info. Why did you get speed bleeders? Planning on changing the brake fluid already?

 

[trustdestruction]

I'm doing stainless brake lines and clutch line and I figure if I am messing with all that I might as well upgrade the fluid and switch to speed bleeders. Regular bleeders take too long and require 2 people, and the speed bleeders are fool-proof due to the check valve. No chance of sucking air back in the system.

 

[Dar-Dar]

True. Btw, you can use the same brake fluid for your clutch. I'm using Ate Racing Blue on both my brake and clutch fluid. But if you don't like the super firm clutch pedal feel (especially with the SS line), I wouldn't recommend the dot4 fluid. Lol.

 

[trustdestruction]

True. Btw, you can use the same brake fluid for your clutch. I'm using Ate Racing Blue on both my brake and clutch fluid. But if you don't like the super firm clutch pedal feel (especially with the SS line), I wouldn't recommend the dot4 fluid. Lol.

Hmm is it really that much different in feel just from changing the fluid? I was thinking it would be noticeable, but subtle. I don't mind the clutch being somewhat stiffer, but "super firm" isn't really what I am looking for.

I was going to order the ATE amber (blue brake fluid illegal in FL, WTF? What about my and everyone else's blue WASHER FLUID? Stupid FL laws), but I think I may just go to the store so I don't have to pay shipping on something I could get local. I'll probably just buy the best thing Advance Auto Parts has.

 

[323]

You should do a DIY on the clutch and brake lines. Please? Lol

 

[trustdestruction]

You should do a DIY on the clutch and brake lines. Please? Lol

Well, there's one on 8th civic that I am using for reference (well, I looked over it... the process is basic and I already know what i'm doing). The process is identical and most of the parts look the same.

Should I still do a DIY given that one exists on 8thcivic? I will be taking a few pictures. Depends how much of a rush I am in since I plan on doing the springs at the same time since I will have all 4 wheels off.

 

[Dar-Dar]

Hmm is it really that much different in feel just from changing the fluid? I was thinking it would be noticeable, but subtle. I don't mind the clutch being somewhat stiffer, but "super firm" isn't really what I am looking for.

I was going to order the ATE amber (blue brake fluid illegal in FL, WTF? What about my and everyone else's blue WASHER FLUID? Stupid FL laws), but I think I may just go to the store so I don't have to pay shipping on something I could get local. I'll probably just buy the best thing Advance Auto Parts has.

It's pretty firm. When I drove my friend's 6-speed A4 for a day and went back to driving my car, I noticed the difference in feel of the clutch. The difference in clutch pedal feel is very significant. I'm not too familiar what the difference between Amber and Racing Blue is, but I find it odd how a brake fluid can be illegal in your state. It's like this law is pulled from someone's ***.

 

[Dar-Dar]

Well, there's one on 8th civic that I am using for reference (well, I looked over it... the process is basic and I already know what i'm doing). The process is identical and most of the parts look the same.

Should I still do a DIY given that one exists on 8thcivic? I will be taking a few pictures. Depends how much of a rush I am in since I plan on doing the springs at the same time since I will have all 4 wheels off.

I think you should bc you're also adding the SS lines and it would be more ideal for members to search around this forum.

 

[trustdestruction]

It's pretty firm. When I drove my friend's 6-speed A4 for a day and went back to driving my car, I noticed the difference in feel of the clutch. The difference in clutch pedal feel is very significant. I'm not too familiar what the difference between Amber and Racing Blue is, but I find it odd how a brake fluid can be illegal in your state. It's like this law is pulled from someone's ***.

You sure it wasn't just the difference between the A4 and your Si that you noticed? The amber and blue are supposedly the same, only difference is color, so that it can be flushed easier. You just alternate colors and can easily tell when the new fluid is coming out the bleeder.

I think you should bc you're also adding the SS lines and it would be more ideal for members to search around this forum.

Okay, I may do that. Depends on how rushed I am and how frustrating the spring install is. I'm using 8th gen springs (H&R OESport only avail. for 8th gen) according to the DIY I saw online, and I do not plan on using compressors. I have done it this way before, where I just unscrew the nut on the top-hat before removing anything else. Then using a floor jack to compress the spring to reinstall the nut while reassembling

 

[Dar-Dar]

You sure it wasn't just the difference between the A4 and your Si that you noticed? The amber and blue are supposedly the same, only difference is color, so that it can be flushed easier. You just alternate colors and can easily tell when the new fluid is coming out the bleeder.

The A4's clutch had the same feel to my car's clutch when it had the factory clutch fluid. I also noticed the difference when I drive my brother's RX-8 or my friend's GLI. My car doesn't have the SS clutch line, btw. But I'm sure the clutch pedal will be much stiffer with it installed. Lol.

So the two fluids are the same properties, basically. One is just illegal in your state...