Monk
Well-Known Member
Is that heat paint ?
Official 'What did you do to your car today?' Thread
- Thread starter Dar-Dar
- Start date
hotdogjohnny
Well-Known Member
Yes, high heat paint in a "brake caliper" painting kit from Duplicolor. What do you think?
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TheSlowAndTheSerious
Well-Known Member
picked this up installed itDetails please lol
You forgot to remind me and I forgot until now lol but here you go!It's cool remind you tomorrow
Six_speed_demon
Well-Known Member
You forgot to remind me and I forgot until now lol but here you go!
WTF!!!! Yours are way brighter than mine were.....those look really good. I did forget.... I need the Link now for those because I'm ordering my HIDs this week along with my nokya DRL as well
Where did you get that for 10 dollars? That's my all time favorite knob!
Looks great, but is it me or does your car look like she's floating lol
trustdestruction
Well-Known Member
I want to do this with a radar detector. How long did it take? I assume you ran it across the front of the headliner and down the A-pillar? How does it look where the wire tucks into the headliner? Can you show me a picture of the accessory port and how you wired it? Sorry for so many questions just trying to be thorough in one post.
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S2ki.com! Search the for sale forum, they pop up pretty regularly and are around that same price if the seller is being nice
hey_mikey
Well-Known Member
This is for a 2013 Accord, but I did it exactly the same way in my Civic before this. Took me about 10-15 min to get it across the headliner, down the a-pillar, and wired into the fusebox. If i remember correctly, in the civic, the fuse diagram shows if each fuse is 12v constant or ignition switched. I think the labels were "batt" or "12v+" for constant and "ign" or something similar. I really don't remember. In the accord, it was a little different. All the already used circuits from the fusebox were 12v constant, so I guess acc circuits were activated by a relay. I ended up using an open (non-marked) fuse location that just happened to be hot only when the ignition was set to "on" which is exactly what I wanted. I'm at work right now, but I'll get some photos for you on my break
hey_mikey
Well-Known Member
Here's how it looks from the other side. The wire is just a little too small to stay up on its own, so I used a small zip tie pulled really tight and it holds it up where it drops down. Also put another zip tie along the length of the wire to keep the center section from dropping.
Before you can pull the a-pillar off, you need to pull the weather stripping down. If you pull the a-pillar trim from the top, it'll pop a couple of clips. Then you'll need to slide it up towards the roof to slide the top clip out of its holder. You don't want to separate the two parts of this clip because it's designed to hold the pillar on in the event of side curtain airbag deployment. Once it was off, I ran the wire next to the wire loom already in place from the factory.
The weather stripping should be pulled off up to the kick panel. Here you can run the wire behind the weather stripping and behind the kick panel to get to the fusebox.
I used a 12v lighter-style power outlet I found at autozone. It's just two wires, power and ground. I ran a ground to this location (first picture) and power from an add-a-circuit thingy. As I said earlier, all the accord's factory fuses were 12v constant, but I found that a few open locations were ignition switched. Plugged in the add-a-circuit thingy there (second picture) and connected it to the positive end of the power outlet.
fritz
Well-Known Member
I swapped out my k24 for the DeLorean engine from back to the future 2! Lmao
S2ki.com! Search the for sale forum, they pop up pretty regularly and are around that same price if the seller is being nice
Ah ok, I don't see any at the moment. I talked the buyer of my 8th into selling me my shift knob back for $55. Better than 100, I guess. :/
And just did this..
fritz
Well-Known Member
The red grills look hot, great job!
trustdestruction
Well-Known Member
Great pics, thanks. I may have to do this.
If the 13's use the same bulb as the 12's, then here's the link to the ones I bought. Bulb #7440
I also got the resistors from them
http://store.ijdmtoy.com/CREE-Q5-XP-E-7440-LED-Bulbs-p/7440-led-sku342.htm
AlienPrime
Well-Known Member
still gotta cut the harness and wire the resistors in line tho....
It's easy enough for anyone to do
trustdestruction
Well-Known Member
No need to hack up your wiring or waste extra money, just get different LED bulbs. superbrightleds.com has some that have the resistors already or something. I have a pair that were plug n play.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/universal-led-bulb-finder/filter/Base,7440,1,52:
I believe I have the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 15 LED. I also had the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED before for some tinted taillights (but since they were dual filament they were a different bulb number) and they were extremely bright.
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/universal-led-bulb-finder/filter/Base,7440,1,52:
I believe I have the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 15 LED. I also had the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED before for some tinted taillights (but since they were dual filament they were a different bulb number) and they were extremely bright.
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AlienPrime
Well-Known Member
those don't have inline resistors tho...
i just bypassed/disabled HVAC resistors
LIKE A BOSS
