I was thinking of doing that anyways
p2r ported im runners
- Thread starter Phillip Lambrecht
- Start date
tmkpres
Well-Known Member
How rough are the runners? Is that what p2R did, just smooth them out ?
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- #63
It is a cast part which could benefit from a port and polish. I can try to take pictures and post them.
tmkpres
Well-Known Member
Thank you sir !
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
Yes P2R just refinishes OEM parts, it's a sand cast part, so it's rather rough inside. The plastic upper itself is actually quite smooth inside, however there is some molding flash inside that can also benefit from trimming with an exacto knife.
This is stock vs DIY sanded;
Yes P2R just refinishes OEM parts, it's a sand cast part, so it's rather rough inside. The plastic upper itself is actually quite smooth inside, however there is some molding flash inside that can also benefit from trimming with an exacto knife.
This is stock vs DIY sanded;
You need to sand all casting marks off to have benefit, make sure the sanding is uniform and don't use higher than 80 grit. You're fine
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
The amount of texture desired depends on who you ask. Furthermore, if you remove too much material, the width of the runners no longer matches the plastic upper. It's a lot of work and I stopped experimenting with it any more.
http://theoldone.com/articles/h22a_head/
http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/mar97.html
http://theoldone.com/articles/h22a_head/
http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/mar97.html
The guy i asked has done it for 8 years. 80 grit, uniform finish, remove all casting.
removing all casting removes less than 1 mm all the way around, and you're not changing the shape of the runners. Just trust me and do it like that my man, i promise it's good!
You're arguing with my positive results on my own car lol
removing all casting removes less than 1 mm all the way around, and you're not changing the shape of the runners. Just trust me and do it like that my man, i promise it's good!
You're arguing with my positive results on my own car lol
tmkpres
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics square ! Still working on them, or was that your final product ?
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
This is a long story, so I have the actual P2R runners on my car right now. They seem to work ok, like I mentioned earlier, it seems to add some mid to high rpm pull and makes the engine sound deeper/louder. However low rpm and part throttle response seemed a little spongy.
I thought I could find a balance between high/low end by doing a less aggressive finish. I started refinishing the extra set of runners I had, but gave up on that since reinstalling would be extra work. I'd just be juggling around a couple top end HP for a couple lb-ft at low rpms.
I also matched the throttle body inlet to my intake. Everyone has heard of porting intake manifold, but I never see anyone talk about the 2-3 mm exposed lip of the throttle body sitting in an aftermarket intake coupler.
So I have ported runners, matched throttle body, HPS silicon intake tube, K&N drop in, with stock filter box. Everything together adds a lot of power everywhere in the rev range. If you DIY as much as possible, you get a lot of mods and power for very low cost. It works great but still looks stock even under the hood.
My car had the common rattling VTC actuator that the dealer replaced under warranty last month and they did not realize all the stuff I had done, the silicon tube alone isn't enough to cause concern. So as a bonus, this setup keeps the factory warranty.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195362
I thought I could find a balance between high/low end by doing a less aggressive finish. I started refinishing the extra set of runners I had, but gave up on that since reinstalling would be extra work. I'd just be juggling around a couple top end HP for a couple lb-ft at low rpms.
I also matched the throttle body inlet to my intake. Everyone has heard of porting intake manifold, but I never see anyone talk about the 2-3 mm exposed lip of the throttle body sitting in an aftermarket intake coupler.
So I have ported runners, matched throttle body, HPS silicon intake tube, K&N drop in, with stock filter box. Everything together adds a lot of power everywhere in the rev range. If you DIY as much as possible, you get a lot of mods and power for very low cost. It works great but still looks stock even under the hood.
My car had the common rattling VTC actuator that the dealer replaced under warranty last month and they did not realize all the stuff I had done, the silicon tube alone isn't enough to cause concern. So as a bonus, this setup keeps the factory warranty.
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195362
PASCIAK
Well-Known Member
@outersquare did you send off your throttle body to maxbore.com for boring?!
PASCIAK
Well-Known Member
Boreing*
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
No I just did it myself, first with a file, then emery cloth, then metal polish. Clean with a cloth and rubbing alcohol when you get the size and shape you want. I only enlarged the inlet side to match the intake coupler, so it was pretty easy. I did not do anything to the outlet nor throttle plate. Just remember to use masking tape to seal off the throttle plate while sanding to keep out abrasives. Everything works great, idle is smooth and no error codes. My goal was to smooth and enlarge everything along the intake tract.
I have a little more detail at the link I mentioned;
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195362
I have a little more detail at the link I mentioned;
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=195362
Last edited:
Dar-Dar
Mordorator
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- Civic Si
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- Fiji Blue Pearl Coupe Coolest Member Since: May 15, 2011
You can pretty much use a die grinder for sanding, fine sanding, and polishing the TB and the IM. I want to polish my RBC soon. I just have a bunch of other things to do before hand.
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
Yeah power tools will work faster, I am a relative newb though so I did not want to grind off too much.
edd
Well-Known Member
Graphs please
Stealth
Well-Known Member
I can't believe I'm just now seeing this thread. I just received my throttle body and intake runners (fuel injector base) back from maxbore. Not too shabby for only costing $80 for porting/polishing of the intake runners to remove all casting marks and $99 to bore the stock 64mm tb to 68mm, along with a new butterfly. I'm hoping that I experience the same positive benefits as you.
outersquare
Well-Known Member
- 11
- 7
Yeah still happy with it, like I mentioned, you might lose a little low rpm/part throttle response in exchange for more WOT mid/high rpm power. I have an accord but with the similar K24Z engine, and it surprises alot of other sporty compact and entry/mid level luxo cars. My car is still externally stock and other people probably think it's just a big car with a small engine.
Must have some kind intake, I am using an HPS silicone tube which is bigger than stock and K&N drop in. Still using the stock snorkel, but I also reworked that and trimmed any molding flash with an exacto knife.
I do not have dynos, there is no tuning solution for the accord yet so I am waiting on that.
I think I saw the other thread, everything looks good but I do not recommend the heatshield manifold gasket. I used to have one in an ealier K24 accord and mine warped/deform with time. Other users have reported this also, the engineering term is "creep deformation";
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)
This is a bigger problem for cars that run coolant through the injector base/manifold because a handful of users on s2ki reported that the plastic gasket deformed so much that coolant leaked into the intake port and hydrolocked the engine. It's like drowning in your own blood.
And since coolant runs past the gasket, the metal injector base will still heat up anyways. Especially for the K24Z engines, the plastic upper manifold is already a thermal insulator. Just trying to save people some trouble with that part, changing the gasket is a pain.
Must have some kind intake, I am using an HPS silicone tube which is bigger than stock and K&N drop in. Still using the stock snorkel, but I also reworked that and trimmed any molding flash with an exacto knife.
I do not have dynos, there is no tuning solution for the accord yet so I am waiting on that.
I think I saw the other thread, everything looks good but I do not recommend the heatshield manifold gasket. I used to have one in an ealier K24 accord and mine warped/deform with time. Other users have reported this also, the engineering term is "creep deformation";
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)
This is a bigger problem for cars that run coolant through the injector base/manifold because a handful of users on s2ki reported that the plastic gasket deformed so much that coolant leaked into the intake port and hydrolocked the engine. It's like drowning in your own blood.
And since coolant runs past the gasket, the metal injector base will still heat up anyways. Especially for the K24Z engines, the plastic upper manifold is already a thermal insulator. Just trying to save people some trouble with that part, changing the gasket is a pain.