Squiggy's 2012 DBP II Si Coupe
- Thread starter squiggy
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- #582
Pish posh. You stay in the garage until you get so frustrated that you throw a wrench at the wall. Only then will you have a true bond with your car
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- #584
death_roll
Well-Known Member
What tires are you rolling on? Don't tell me it's still on the OE Michelin MXXMXMXMXXMXMXXMX4s, They won't be happy come dragon time.
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- #586
Unfortunately, yes still the stock all seasons. They will probably be nearly toast after The Dragon. I plan on getting new wheels and tires in the spring. Not in the budget right now...especially since I will be buying a winter setup soon.
death_roll
Well-Known Member
Ehhh...there's a lot more driving compared to last year, if you want you can ride along with any open-seaters on the Friday / Saturday drives if you don't want to totally annihilate your tires. I drove back to PA two years ago on 2/32" and it wasn't fun.
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- #588
There is enough tread left right now. Car only has 18.5k miles on it, but I am a bit rough on the tires. Worst case scenario is they will be down to the replacement indicator lines once the weekend is over. I may catch a lift for a few runs though. I am still one of the slow ones...
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- #589
Dennis Rockholt
9k Alll Day
Mine werent earlier this spring when I did that....those tires were complete garbage
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- #591
I don't dispute that. I had no problems getting the rear to swing out on some of the turns last year. My plan is to destroy them at The Dragon and then put winter tires on the wheels a few weeks later. I will buy new wheels and tires in the spring.
Dennis Rockholt
9k Alll Day
Nice, car looks great btw.
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- #593
Thank you! I can't wait to round out the exterior and finish the retrofit, get new wheels, and get a BBK. Gotta put the front HFP lip kit on too.
Dennis Rockholt
9k Alll Day
Nice! Wheels are my next upgrade for sure, but probably waiting until spring on those
twister8008
Well-Known Member
I can't wait for my all seasons to be destroyed.
I already have my winter setup, but these tires look like they will hold out for a while
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- #598
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- #599
Alignment set for Sunday. Springs should have settled by then.
Debating on settings. Found this from RedShiftChris:
Street "Mild Performance"
Front Camber: -1.0°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)
Front Toe: Factory setting
(0 toe.)
Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°
(This range is the same as factory because not all Civic's had the same camber. Early on in the Civic's production, customers complained of too much wear on the inside edge of the rear tires; so Honda equipped some Civics with a "C" stamped upper rear control arm to reduce camber from approx -1.5 to approx -0.8. The less camber you run, the better your tire wear will be but the less grip you will have in back for extreme handling maneuvers. I would recommend -0.8 for anyone super concerned about tire wear and -1.5 if you want to retain the best rear grip at all handling levels (because that is where Honda originally set it.) Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.
Rear Toe: 0.16° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the safe end of the available factory range.)
Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 toe
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)
Leaning towards the aggressive specs.
Debating on settings. Found this from RedShiftChris:
Street "Mild Performance"
Front Camber: -1.0°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole.)
Front Toe: Factory setting
(0 toe.)
Rear Camber: -0.8° to -1.5°
(This range is the same as factory because not all Civic's had the same camber. Early on in the Civic's production, customers complained of too much wear on the inside edge of the rear tires; so Honda equipped some Civics with a "C" stamped upper rear control arm to reduce camber from approx -1.5 to approx -0.8. The less camber you run, the better your tire wear will be but the less grip you will have in back for extreme handling maneuvers. I would recommend -0.8 for anyone super concerned about tire wear and -1.5 if you want to retain the best rear grip at all handling levels (because that is where Honda originally set it.) Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.
Rear Toe: 0.16° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the safe end of the available factory range.)
Street "Aggressive"
Front Camber: -1.4°
(1 Ingalls bolt per side needed in upper hole at max adjustment setting.)
Front Toe: 0 toe
(0 toe is factory setting but also a good aggressive street spec. Or you can try a hair of toe out, but generally toe out will destroy tires fast as a daily driver.)
Rear Camber: -1.5°
(provides better rear grip for extreme handling. Either the Ingalls rear camber adjusters or Skunk2 (or any other) replacement arms provide the adjustment necessary.)
Rear Toe: 0.08° (a positive number is toe in)
(on the more aggressive end of the available factory range.)
Leaning towards the aggressive specs.
xXCiviXx
Well-Known Member
How do you like the GTMat you have in the trunk? Does it help a lot with your sound system? I'm curious as I'm getting some decent rattle from my setup and was looking into all the options and dynamat is crazy expensive. Haven't heard much about GTMat so it would be nice to get some feedback. Especially from someone with the same car!!