Fail NYS emission inspection twice - HELP

[Tak]

My 12 LX got repaired for the rear quarter panel. Everything appeared to be running fine except it fails the NYS emission inspection twice.

The errors are as follows
Readiness fail
1. Monitor EVAP Not ready
2. Monitor O2 Not ready
3. Monitor EGR Not ready

I spoke with the body shop which did the repair and they said it could not be related to the rear quarter panel repair but they will look into it and get back to me. I called Honda service but try to charge me $120 just for a diagnostics.

I drove more than 150 miles after the battery unplugged. That should be able to reset all monitors. But no avail.

What's going on here? I appreciate your help.

Thanks,

Tak

P.S If this is not a right forum, please move it. Thanks.

 

[Darkout]

If you had been hit in the rear it's possible you jarred the evap canister or something with the evap system during impact even if they never touched anything. Are the monitors not wanting to run or have you just not put the car threw it's paces to allow the monitor to run. Evap monitors from experience usually run after the car has been driven and shut off for a few hours unless you use a scan tool to force run the monitor. Sounds like the ECM is seeing something it doesn't like to not run the monitors if I understand you correctly. As far as help from the side lines there's not much we could do unless someone else has run into a similar issue. Is there a check engine light on and any other P0*** codes? Don't feel like there's enough information for me to understand what exactly your problem is.

I know people don't want to spend money to have technicians/shops to diagnose an issue but being a mechanic myself I deal with people with that attitude daily and it causes me to waist time and loose money. First things first, mechanics are payed by the job they "SELL" or also known as flat rate, not by the hour/standing around. It does infuriate me how people expect to not pay anything for knowledge we hold (go to school for and train) and the equipment (we buy out of pocket, unless specialty tools the shop buys) that allows us to properly figure out an issue. You don't go to a doctor when your sick and expect to walk in and not pay a dime to have them tell you what they think is wrong, someone pays whether your pocket or insurance. Same concept, we are doctors for cars.

Not trying to get on the wrong side of anyone but the misconception of what a mechanic actually goes through nowadays to "properly" fix a vehicle and expect it for free really gets under my skin. And I'm one of the most helpful people out there if you need it but pats on the back and thank you's don't pay my bills no matter how much they make me smile.

 

[Tak]

If you had been hit in the rear it's possible you jarred the evap canister or something with the evap system during impact even if they never touched anything. Are the monitors not wanting to run or have you just not put the car threw it's paces to allow the monitor to run. Evap monitors from experience usually run after the car has been driven and shut off for a few hours unless you use a scan tool to force run the monitor. Sounds like the ECM is seeing something it doesn't like to not run the monitors if I understand you correctly. As far as help from the side lines there's not much we could do unless someone else has run into a similar issue. Is there a check engine light on and any other P0*** codes? Don't feel like there's enough information for me to understand what exactly your problem is.

I know people don't want to spend money to have technicians/shops to diagnose an issue but being a mechanic myself I deal with people with that attitude daily and it causes me to waist time and loose money. First things first, mechanics are payed by the job they "SELL" or also known as flat rate, not by the hour/standing around. It does infuriate me how people expect to not pay anything for knowledge we hold (go to school for and train) and the equipment (we buy out of pocket, unless specialty tools the shop buys) that allows us to properly figure out an issue. You don't go to a doctor when your sick and expect to walk in and not pay a dime to have them tell you what they think is wrong, someone pays whether your pocket or insurance. Same concept, we are doctors for cars.

Not trying to get on the wrong side of anyone but the misconception of what a mechanic actually goes through nowadays to "properly" fix a vehicle and expect it for free really gets under my skin. And I'm one of the most helpful people out there if you need it but pats on the back and thank you's don't pay my bills no matter how much they make me smile.

Thank you for your quick reply.

I have driven about 200 miles from the repair. From what I was told, the ECU should be ready. So I don't know if the EVAP does not want to run or not.
The body shop will get back to me tomorrow and I want to see what they said. The repair was claimed thru from my premium. I want to see if they can fully fix it with my claim if the evap canister really got the impact.

I know that I need to spend money. However, as the repair has just been done. I want everything goes thru my premium, if it is related.

And there is no engine light nor any P0* error coming up. So I don't understand why the ECU is not ready.

Thanks again.

 

[webby]

do you have a throttle body spacer or any mods on the car?

 

[webby]

another user has had tighten fuel cap errors and evap issues on NY inspections due to a throttle body spacer -
http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/n...t-and-evap-not-ready.12772/page-2#post-347879

you can go back and read the beginning of the thread if you want, but it solved his issue. If you don't have a spacer, you may have to follow darkout's info above.

 

[Twitch]

Do you have any mods? When was the repair? Were you hit on the drivers side or passenger side.

First things first. Check your manual and find the relearn procedure. I know you drove 200 miles but that may not have been the right driving to reset. The procedure is rather specific. I will double check later but I know you had to rev in park to a specific RPM for so many minutes, hen drive at 55 for ~20 min then drive stop and go for ~20 min or something. It is very specific but the monitors should reset after this. Do you have your own OBDII scanner? If you don't you can try taking it straight to your mechanic after this procedure.

If the codes keep resetting it's because you have a problem in the system. Like darkout said, most likely the Evap canister or a hose connecting to it. If the car is stock that would be the first place I would look. It's expensive to go to a mechanic but sometimes that's what you need.

 

[Tak]

do you have a throttle body spacer or any mods on the car?

No, I don't think so. I bought it as a preowned more than a year ago and didn't do any mod yet.

 

[Tak]

Do you have any mods? When was the repair? Were you hit on the drivers side or passenger side.

First things first. Check your manual and find the relearn procedure. I know you drove 200 miles but that may not have been the right driving to reset. The procedure is rather specific. I will double check later but I know you had to rev in park to a specific RPM for so many minutes, hen drive at 55 for ~20 min then drive stop and go for ~20 min or something. It is very specific but the monitors should reset after this. Do you have your own OBDII scanner? If you don't you can try taking it straight to your mechanic after this procedure.

If the codes keep resetting it's because you have a problem in the system. Like darkout said, most likely the Evap canister or a hose connecting to it. If the car is stock that would be the first place I would look. It's expensive to go to a mechanic but sometimes that's what you need.

Can you please help me find the relearn procedure? I am looking for my manual but i misplace it somewhere.
The repair has just been done a few days ago. It was the rear 1/4 on the driver side. If you want to see how it looks like, I can show you.
I know I have to fix the issue. If this is somehow related to the that, I want to go back to the repair shop and keep claiming thru from my premium, as I feel like the repair should be fully done.

 

[Tak]

Guys, what happens if the inspection expires and I am still trying to fix it? Is there something like a temp inspection sticker? What happens if a cop notices the expired inspection?

 

[Twitch]

Pgs 325 + 326 of the manual.

 

[Twitch]

Guys, what happens if the inspection expires and I am still trying to fix it? Is there something like a temp inspection sticker? What happens if a cop notices the expired inspection?

The shop that did the first test should have given you a fail letter with a temp inspection an removed your current sticker. I think it was good for 7-10 days. They can only give you one of these. After that your inspection is void and you are liable for a ticket. That said, unless you go through a checkpoint or you park on the street in a city you should be good. I drive around for weeks with the temp letter and did not have a problem.

 

[Twitch]

Can you please help me find the relearn procedure? I am looking for my manual but i misplace it somewhere.
The repair has just been done a few days ago. It was the rear 1/4 on the driver side. If you want to see how it looks like, I can show you.
I know I have to fix the issue. If this is somehow related to the that, I want to go back to the repair shop and keep claiming thru from my premium, as I feel like the repair should be fully done.

Run the relearn procedure from the manual. More than likely nothing is wrong and you have not done enough proper driving to reset.

 

[Tak]

Run the relearn procedure from the manual. More than likely nothing is wrong and you have not done enough proper driving to reset.

Thanks for the information.
I think you are right. I may need to have that kind of driving pattern to reset.
The killer is to maintain 50-60 for 20 minutes as I'm living in Manhattan....
Where can I buy the tester to test before doing another inspection again?
I think I notice you were using an app on a phone to do that?

Thank you so much for you information.
I really appreciate it.

 

[Twitch]

Thanks for the information.
I think you are right. I may need to have that kind of driving pattern to reset.
The killer is to maintain 50-60 for 20 minutes as I'm living in Manhattan....
Where can I buy the tester to test before doing another inspection again?
I think I notice you were using an app on a phone to do that?

Thank you so much for you information.
I really appreciate it.

Yeah I live in Nassau county. It was a pain in the ***. I just got up really early and did it while the roads were empty.

You can get them at any auto store. I was using this

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...&prefStoredSet=1&prefZC=11756&un_jtt_redirect

 

[Darkout]

Yea before you try to rack your brain over what you think is a problem, I'd do what @Twitch posted about the readiness codes and running it's paces (as readily possible). Until it fails/passes the readiness tests you wont know truly know if there is an issue somewhere. Hope that's all it is for you bud!

 

[Tak]

Yeah I live in Nassau county. It was a pain in the ***. I just got up really early and did it while the roads were empty.

You can get them at any auto store. I was using this

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sh...&prefStoredSet=1&prefZC=11756&un_jtt_redirect

Yea, maintaining 50-60 for 20 minutes is not a joke. I am closer to SIE and am thinking about doing it at 5 AM West bound on SIE to NJ lol
And I will try to get the tester from autozone and do the test myself. It's more convenient.
Thanks

 

[Tak]

Yea before you try to rack your brain over what you think is a problem, I'd do what @Twitch posted about the readiness codes and running it's paces (as readily possible). Until it fails/passes the readiness tests you wont know truly know if there is an issue somewhere. Hope that's all it is for you bud!

Yes, I am gonna do that. It seems likely this could be the issue. I need to find a day and do it very early in the morning without traffic.
NYC traffic sucks. It is hard to do 50-60 mph for 20 minutes.

 

[Darkout]

Yes, I am gonna do that. It seems likely this could be the issue. I need to find a day and do it very early in the morning without traffic.
NYC traffic sucks. It is hard to do 50-60 mph for 20 minutes.

Ouch I don't know what I would do if I wasn't able to open my car up. I'm lucky enough to have back roads and highway stretches going to work and back that allow me to open her up to triple digits let alone mild cruising.

 

[Tak]

Run the relearn procedure from the manual. More than likely nothing is wrong and you have not done enough proper driving to reset.

I just followed the manual about testing whether the readiness codes are set by turning the ignition key to ll.
And it does blink 5 times that indicates readiness codes are not ready.

I'm going to follow the steps when I get a chance.

Btw, do you guys think if I have to do in sequence at the same time?

Thank you all,

Tak

 

[Twitch]

I would do it in sequence at the same time. Otherwise you won't know if it's improper procedure or bad components.