650whp or bust

ripply

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Well... Kind of an impulse decision, but this happened tonight





Looks good to me :giggle:



This I can't wait for
 

ripply

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Trans tear down. Have to modify my press for the gears and the MFactory ones will be going in shortly

Look at the difference. This is MFactory main shaft 1/2 and oem main shaft 1/2. The socket is a 12mm


Wrapped all hoses, lines, and electrical components with heat reflective tape
 

Darkout

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Envious of the build man, looking really legit! Keep it up and hope it all falls into place for you, definitely following to see the outcome.
 

ripply

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Where did you find the heat reflective tape? I have some areas on my project that could probably use that.

I bought the DEI silver tape from my local pep boys. They have it at the speed shop section. It was something like $18 for a 1.5"x15' roll. I ended up using 4 rolls to wrap everything back there. Originally I wanted the gold tape, but upon spending a whole day on the internet I actually found out the silver tape is a bit cheaper and insulates better than the gold because it's made of thicker material. F1 cars use it, come to think of it my motorcycles fairings come with silver heat tape as well.

Envious of the build man, looking really legit! Keep it up and hope it all falls into place for you, definitely following to see the outcome.
Thank you very much sir. It's to the point of no return now haha

Some more exciting build details. Pressed out all the gears. Monday I'm picking up a k24a2 accord manual trans for $200 so that I can tear it apart and grab the 4.3 FD. In the mean time I might finish the MFactory main shaft
 
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ripply

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m factory makes some amazing parts

Believe it or not, the MFactory gears are made the same place as the gearx gears. Regardless the gears are a lot beefier than oem and seem nicely built. I just hope they will be able to withstand all this power. Gears are rated to 500tq. Speaking with MFactory they said the gears can withstand more, it's just that they haven't had a car make more tq than that.
 

Nix

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It's A Fast Pig!
Nice stuff man. I'm impressed with your mechanic/technical abilities too. That's all way over my skill level by a ton. Really cool to be able to watch you put this all together.
 

Darkout

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I was curious on how hard was it to pull the engine and/or trans on the ground. When the time comes for a new/upgraded clutch I was debating doing it at the house vs trying to get a lift in the shop for a weekend. RWD is cake but have only done FWD on lifts.
 

ripply

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Things are coming along nicely. Did you use a press to separate the gears or a vice and a mallet?
Noooooo don't ever use vice and a mallet :bricks:. I bought a 12 ton press for the gears and a bearing puller for the bearings on the shafts. The press works for the main shaft, but has to be modified in order to press out the gears from the counter shaft. The steel Beamon the middle isn't wide enough and first gear or 4th can't fit to be pressed out.


Then 6th comes right out. There's a hub holding 4/5. Press out the hub, remove those gears. Then there's another hub holding 3rd. Press that out and it's home run. 1st, reverse, and 2nd are built into the shaft

I was curious on how hard was it to pull the engine and/or trans on the ground. When the time comes for a new/upgraded clutch I was debating doing it at the house vs trying to get a lift in the shop for a weekend. RWD is cake but have only done FWD on lifts.
Took me about 4.5 hours to pull the engine. I do it out the top because it's easier for me and I don't have to align the subframe or go for an alignment afterwards. The trans takes me about the same to pull. I usually remove the subframe for that though. No point in removing the engine and spending extra money for new fluids afterwards. Definitely doable in the garage on stands. I've done two clutch jobs so far. Pulling the trans out blows. Has to come out perfectly straight so you have to lie on your back like a turtle and prop it with your knees the pull. Or if you're not cheap enough just buy a trans Jack haha.
 
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ripply

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Yes sir. I paid $130 for it. I originally bought the smaller 6ton $80 one, but that one was too small in every aspect

I gotta press everything back out :pout:. Just noticed a little notch in the 6th gear synchro spring which makes me question the rest of the springs gahhhh
 
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ripply

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Mainshaft complete

Countershaft complete

Whole trans complete as of today
MFactory 1-4 gear. Oem 5-6. 4.3FD

With the 4.3 FD and 1-4 ratios, here's how things will be looking at a redline of 8.4K (which is what I want for the street). Still toying around with the idea of my redline. The block is built to withstand 9K+ RPM, but I don't plan on revving much past 8.6K even at the track. I don't like to rev out to domething I can't see
 

Darkout

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I probably missed it but what all do you need to make this motor rev that high? I know the stroke is a limiting factor. Envious as ever, keep it up!
 

ripply

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I probably missed it but what all do you need to make this motor rev that high? I know the stroke is a limiting factor. Envious as ever, keep it up!

I've taken the car to 8.8K rpm before on the kW kit at the track on the stock motor :bricks:

But basically a the rsx type s pump is a must and along with that you also need to build the head. That's the minimum Id say
 

Sarcras

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That looks freaking awesome. Can't wait for more!
 

ripply

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Fitting a walbro 450 in the stock cage is something like this


Comparison to stock. Pump is about 1/8 thicker on the upper section. Lenght wise they seem the same. Fitting in the cage won't be as bad as I thought. I would just have to cut the lower section that the fuel filter clips to And jam the pump all the way up. This currently how much it goes in

 
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