Dar-Dar's 1995 Avus Blue E36 M3 Project Car

Dar-Dar

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I removed the eBay coilovers and installed Koni Yellows and H&R race springs with SPC front adjustable top hats.



The preload settings were different between the two rear shocks. One was shorter than the other. That was probably the reason why the right side sagged a little more.





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Dar-Dar

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I went to drive the car to buy some gas and it was over heating. I don't think the coolant circulated into the engine entirely so it might be low on coolant. Or the old oil might have lost its viscosity.

Yes, I still need to change the oil, but I need to install the new oil pump nut and oil pan gasket first. I need a full day's worth to do that job. It seems annoying.

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Dar-Dar

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How's the radiator look?
It looked fine when I took it off during the water pump replacement. There were no cracks or signs of damage. I'll run it on idle to to see if the fans are running properly. The coolant level is full.
 

Dar-Dar

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I noticed that the inside of the front tires were rubbing on the ebay front struts. So the side walls lost some rubber material. :pat: I can't believe the owner(s) before the last one didn't notice the rubbing issue. Idiot.

The E46 wheels are 8.5", at least, so I'll just end up switching the rear tires (225/45/17) to the front and run 245/40/17s on the rear. I'll give it a meaty rear setup. But that will be in a few months.
 

Dar-Dar

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Damnit @Dar-Dar! I keep forgetting you bought the M3 and then you have to remind me with these update posts. :tongue:
There isn't a better ride for the amount that I paid for this. :giggle: :shhhh:
 

Dar-Dar

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If fans aren't running, check fuses before you buy replacements obviously.
I think it's only the AC fan that is electric. The radiator fan is spun by the water pump pulley.

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Dar-Dar

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I do want those things, but like the stock look of it. The HFP lip kit plus the paint job will be around $1k, Retro is another $500-$900. I'd rather save money and get a CTE SC for it.
 

Nomar06

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Meh.....you already haz racecar! lol


Do a Mini H1 retro on your own and just get the front HFP section.
 

Dar-Dar

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Meh.....you already haz racecar! lol


Do a Mini H1 retro on your own and just get the front HFP section.
No, I have two race cars. I want to track both cars actually.

I wanted to do that to the Civic, but I didn't want to take a risk racing it and have it break down since it was my only car.

Now that I have two, there's a guarantee that at least one car will be available to be driven to work. Lol. :D

I'm too lazy to diy retrofits. I like mechanical work. Although, I like painting parts. So the front hfp might be first. I still have the S204 lip sitting in the garage too.

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ron v

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A gutted single seater m3 would bad ***. Si is looking pretty fresh too.
 

Nomar06

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But the retro is too easy not to do. Hardest part is baking the headlights open....srsly, do it!
 

Nix

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Get a sandwich plate adapter and run an oil cooler for the Si if you're going to track it. Use one of the remote thermostat bypass setups to get the oil up to temp. I think Mocal makes a nice one that fully opens at around 200. From what I've read and sending quite a few PMs back and forth with a guy on 8th, 180-200 is ideal oil temp for the 8th. Did you ever see that guy jrickerm's track threads? He runs the heck out of his car. I think he's in Ohio somewhere. Helped me decide on cooler size and line size for my ATF unit.

Since the "crash" I'm not going to bother going back over there. I can't get my account back and its dead as far as I care. Not starting over in that cesspit of stance and people who want to turbo their car for $500.
 

Dar-Dar

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Oil pan removal. Part one:





I was only able to remove the steering rack and the power steering pump.

I purchased a 1000lb engine support from harbor freight for $55. It had a ton of very good reviews. I'll be using it when I remove the crossbar that holds the engine so I can have full access to the oil pan.



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