Bad alternator?

[r18-power]

So if you disconnect the amp for a few days and have no issues then you know its the amp. Maybe its drawing more than you think and the system can't keep up. Might need a capacitor? I know nothing of car audio but the basics from a brief stint working at BB.

Yeah well so far since I took the amp out, the car has felt fine, Im still a lil worried about the way the alternator looks (kinda black on the copper wires) so Im at Honda right now having them take a look at it.. We'll see what they say

Might be overloaded or possibly having some feed back that the car doesn't like. I'm no expert on car audio but have fried my fare share of amps and speakers to know that it takes some proper sizing up to get it all to run smooth. So far though it does seem to be linked with the amp.

Yes I think the same, lets see what they say at the dealership I will keep you guys updated! Thanks again for all the help!

 

[Darkout]

Good luck, hope it goes well. That's what we are here for buddy.

 

[r18-power]

Thanks man! So they said they couldnt touch the car do to warranty issue since I relocated the battery lol usual dealership BS, they told me it wasnt the alternator or the battery, the said the connection on the battery might have gotten loose.. I went to autozone this time to get everything tested and again everything was fine! So inconclusion I do think it was the amp putting xtra stress on the alternator.. Also the guy at autozone told me the black/burnt stuff on the alternator could be dirt that got on it and just got "cooked" on to it who knows..

 

[Darkout]

I would try to cruise around for a few weeks without the amp and see what happens. I know it's hard to not have a good system after it being installed but if everything stays solid for a few weeks only then would I try to hook it back up and see how long till the problem "might" return.

 

[tacthecat]

Thanks man! So they said they couldnt touch the car do to warranty issue since I relocated the battery lol usual dealership BS, they told me it wasnt the alternator or the battery, the said the connection on the battery might have gotten loose.. I went to autozone this time to get everything tested and again everything was fine! So inconclusion I do think it was the amp putting xtra stress on the alternator.. Also the guy at autozone told me the black/burnt stuff on the alternator could be dirt that got on it and just got "cooked" on to it who knows..

Did you "extend" the battery cables when you relocated the battery? If so, unless you installed new high quality cables, not splices, and not more than 6 - 18 inches longer and at least 2 gauges lower, this could very well be your issue. Unless your audio amp is shorting out I find it difficult to see a "normal aftermarket" unit of 600+ watts peak overwhelming the alternator/ECU. But I hope I'm wrong and you're back in business.

 

[r18-power]

@Darkout well so it happened again today, I got to work (35 min drive) drove fine I put the car in reverse and all the lights dimmed and felt like the car wanted to turn off, On my way back home today I hooked up my flashpro and ran the hondata app on my iphone, I was keeping an eye on the battery volts when I left my job the voltage was 14.2-14.3 in some cases 13.8 while drving then it would go back up to 14.2-14.3 and neutral/stopped, but after drving for about 25 mins the car voltage would drop to 12.1-12.3 while driving it even got to the point that it got to 11.8 in 6th gear but it would got back the 14.2 while in neutral but after I drove more it would stay around 12.1-12.3 and it would not go up even in neutral or stopped.. The car had a fast restart while drving again and then the volts went back up to 14.2-14.3.. Got home and put it in reverse and it was fine... I checked my battery and the connections are tighten down all the way but feel loose.. Any thoughts?

 

[tacthecat]

@Darkout well so it happened again today, I got to work (35 min drive) drove fine I put the car in reverse and all the lights dimmed and felt like the car wanted to turn off, On my way back home today I hooked up my flashpro and ran the hondata app on my iphone, I was keeping an eye on the battery volts when I left my job the voltage was 14.2-14.3 in some cases 13.8 while drving then it would go back up to 14.2-14.3 and neutral/stopped, but after drving for about 25 mins the car voltage would drop to 12.1-12.3 while driving it even got to the point that it got to 11.8 in 6th gear but it would got back the 14.2 while in neutral but after I drove more it would stay around 12.1-12.3 and it would not go up even in neutral or stopped.. The car had a fast restart while drving again and then the volts went back up to 14.2-14.3.. Got home and put it in reverse and it was fine... I checked my battery and the connections are tighten down all the way but feel loose.. Any thoughts?

See entry #25 above - voltage variation implies bad connection (ECU/alternator a very distant second). Loose clamps are a no-no. Remove & clean posts and clamps - they must be tight!

 

[Nix]

If the post clamps on your battery are loose you may need to pick up a couple shims. I know auto zone has them. They look like thimbles but are lead and you can slip them over the posts. They should have cuts in the sides so you can break them in half if the full size is too much.


EDIT: They are soft and made of LEAD. So don't play with it too much!

They look like this:

 

[r18-power]

See entry #25 above - voltage variation implies bad connection (ECU/alternator a very distant second). Loose clamps are a no-no. Remove & clean posts and clamps - they must be tight!

Ok so can a bad/loose connection be causing all my problems? My theory is that when I hit a bump on the road the battery cable jumps and the car looses the power making it want to turn off for a few seconds

If the post clamps on your battery are loose you may need to pick up a couple shims. I know auto zone has them. They look like thimbles but are lead and you can slip them over the posts. They should have cuts in the sides so you can break them in half if the full size is too much.


EDIT: They are soft and made of LEAD. So don't play with it too much!

They look like this:

Thanks Nix! Yes I was looking at these the other day, Im going to pick up a set today!

 

[tacthecat]

Ok so can a bad/loose connection be causing all my problems? My theory is that when I hit a bump on the road the battery cable jumps and the car looses the power making it want to turn off for a few seconds

YES - think intermittant. Flickering power/lights/electronics reset. Puzzled as to how the connections got loose in the first place.
Oh, and be careful not to overtighten the battery clamps as they are likely made of lead and stretch - just get tight enough so the clamp doesn't move/rotate on the battery post.

 

[r18-power]

Ok thanks I appreciate the info, Im going to do this tomorrow I already bought the shims, yeah the negative rotates and the positive wiggles a little with the extention PRL sent me.

 

[Darkout]

Yea @tacthecat nailed it. I was assuming your connections were good at the battery but good call. I have no doubt that's your issue considering your issue with the scenarios you've mentioned.]

*Edit: I'm surprised the dealership didn't cacth this when they should have tested the battery considering a "alternator test was performed". You have to touch the terminals to clamp the tester on. I also have a habit of wiggling every battery terminal of every car that comes through my shop before I close the hood, along with checking every cap under the hood is tight.

 

[r18-power]

Thanks everyone! I did end up tightening everything down, I ended up removing the prl extension on the positive side and put a shim on that side now but connections are nice and tight! I really hope this was my issue...

 

[r18-power]

So I have another question for you guys, sorry for all the questions lol

So the car has felt fine since I thighten down the battery connections, but my flashpro keeps showing me a voltage fluctuation while drving for example, I took the car for a drive today, and sometimes while I was driving the car would be between 14.0-14.3 volts while in neutral and while in gear giving it gas.. But sometimes it would go down to 12.1-12.8 while in gear and giving it gas, and it would slowly get back up to 14 at a red light, but sometimes it would stay at 12.3-12.7 at the light and even after putting the car back in gear and the again while in gear it would climb back up to the 14.3.. Oh and another thing I noticed is with the a/c on (the fluctuation would happen with ac off) with would stay at the 14 range and not go down any lower.. So my question is, is this fluctuation normal while a/c is off and driving? Or whats going on? Everyone says the battery and alternator are fine and Ive never had any starting issues.

 

[Michal006]

How come your username says R18 power, but you have Si listed under vehicle model? What's up with that @r18-power

 

[r18-power]

Lol I made this account when I had an 8th gen R18

 

[webby]

Why not contact prl to see what they say? See if they ran a big 3 upgrade in their car, or what they suggest?

 

[r18-power]

I think I will contact them to see what they say, its weird though since the terminals are now connected directly to the post on the battery very tight.. Ive been doing aloooottttt (yes almost all day) of reading and came accross this

 

[Darkout]

I'll run my OBDII app and watch my battery voltage but I have never seen nor heard of a car "designed" to drop bellow 13v. I would suspect your alt is having issues if it fluctuates that much. I swear I've had my battery voltage show on the app for the few weeks I used it and never saw less than 13.5v but I am stock still with no system.

A good battery runs at 12.66v "ideally" at 100%. 12.1v is starting to get in the "ruh roh" range, but I'm not a honda expert so it may be that way so like I said I'll keep an eye on mine for a few days.

 

[r18-power]

Yeah please let me know, I think it might be the alternator, Ive noticed the car shake a lil bit in second gear (sometimes) and noticed some belt residue by the alternator and alternator pulley, my theory is that the alternator pulley isnt spinning properly and its making the car shake a lil and making all that residue.. I think Im going to order a new one from Honda.. And my audio system is completely out of the car now.