Finally ordered HIDs!

bcurtis

bcurtis

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I've been waiting a while for so money to accumulate, and yes HIDs are even expensive to this broke college student :( Anyways, I went with the 35w 6000k HID kit from DDM Tuning. When ever they finally get here I will be sure to post up pics, and maybe start a build thread.
 
Nix

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bcurtis

bcurtis

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25
South Carolina
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Civic Si
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Sedan
Nix said:
Did you get them with a proper wiring harness and relays?

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/harnesses/morimoto-9006-low-beam-relay-wire-harness.html

It'll save you some headaches down the line.


Also when you get your kit check all your connections and make em' secure with some dielectric grease and sealant if you need to.

Weatherproofing guide:

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/hid-wiring-harness-weatherproofing.8848/
Click to expand...


This is is new news to me. I've read that it is usually plug and play. What exactly do these do if you don't mind me asking?
 
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Nix

Nix

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It basically draws power directly from the battery instead of trying to run the higher demand through the stock wiring. Sometimes you're ok but sometimes thing melt or fuses blow. Also you can run into minor issues like flickering if the stock system can't handle the request for enough power from the ballasts. The harness just protects and powers everything nicely. It is really really easy to install with the HID kid. It looks complicated but once you lay everything out it's not bad at all.

If it looks scary when you get it, just lay out each component and unfurl the harness. Just match up all the ends, the connectors should make it pretty obvious what goes where and I bet it will make more sense to you. You will have to attach the red (usually) positive end to the positive battery terminal (also usually red) and find grounds for the black (usually) ends of the harness. Most of the time there are already ring connectors attached so just find a screw somewhere near the ballast on each end and stick the ground to that point. Might need to file the paint away a little to ground it well.

If you're feeling overwhelmed let us know and we can try and help. If you feel like you don't want to tackle it, bring your kit to the May Dragon and I can help you install it in like an hour. Or drive all the way to Louisville, which is probably unreasonable but offer is there. Hahaha.


Here is a great simple diagram of where everything goes:

1) Red Power wire with Fuse to the positive on the Battery, the fuse is included with the harness.
2) Long red wires to each ballast
3) Each ballast plugs into each bulb
4) Black ground on the end next to each ballast with the "ring" connector
5) The black box at the top is the relay, the cord on this plugs into the stock system so your headlight controls work just like always.

 
bcurtis

bcurtis

Well-Known Member
33
25
South Carolina
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Sedan
Thanks so much for the open handed help guys, I really appreciate it. I called them and left them a message to see if they can add one for $9.99. I have a few questions though, since it is the 35w system, if something was to happen to the stock wiring, wouldn't the stock fuse blow before anything bad happened? Also, does anyone know what the max amps are for start-up with the 35w DDM kit? I've looked everywhere and can't find anything.

I believe my kit will ship before I can add on a relay, and if that is the case i will install it just to see what happens. I am probably going to order a relay from somewhere else if I can get a good deal. Hate to pay shipping for one single relay.

As for the May Dragon Week, I would love to come and put some faces to these avatars. I just hate to come asking for help LOL The relay installation guides seem pretty easy, but then again I am a complete nub on electrical circuits.
 
Nix

Nix

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Honestly man, it looks complicated but once you have it in hand and can unravel and match up all the ends, its really easy.

It's not necessarily the case that the startup amp draw will be enough to blow the fuse, it's that over time the excess electricity creates heat which degrades the components. It might not happen in a week, 2 weeks, or even a month, but the risk is that down the road something will happen.

I hear ya on the shipping for one part. Sometimes shipping is more than the thing you're buying! In any case here is the first post from the link to the HID thread webby linked earlier.


ethlar said:
http://theeshadow.com/files/volvo/hidcomp.html

The author tested a few ballasts under warm and cold start conditions, just to show the amperage spike that happens when you first turn them on. Though he notes that the spike is too short in duration to blow a standard fuse, you are still pushing far more power through the wires than intended and it can cause a repeated fatigue situation where eventually you will develop issues with the stock wiring.

TrialColdWarm
Halogen Cold ~4.52a average (15a peek < 20ms) Warm ~4.52a average (14.25a peek < 13ms)
Osram H11 55w


Control Cold ~6.63a average (20a peek < 15ms) Warm ~3.38a average (14.73a peek, < 30ms)
Xentec 35w


HID50 Cold ~5.1a average (10.91a peek < 25 ms) Warm ~4.09a average (14.73a peek < 20ms)
50W Slim

DDM Cold ~4.36a average (13.64a peek, < 20ms) Warm ~3.95a average (14.93a peek < 20ms)
55W slim
Click to expand...
 
Nix

Nix

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Expand the quote.. .DDM info is the last one.
 
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