Any gains FROM PRL SRI STOCK MANIFOLD ?

Great info on the PRL short ram intake. So looks like there are some gains. How big is the stock intake diameter compared to the 3.5 PRL short ram? Looks a lot easier to install compared to the PRL CAI.
Thanks
 
I have Rickspecd but would go PRL CAI to use as a SRI. That's if I could do it all over again. So with Full Race Non catted DP and Invidia Q300 I made 186 HP to the wheel dyno tuned by Vit on my 'aw Si. The smell was too strong for me to ignore, especially since my kids ride in my car. I down sized to a RV-6 2.5" high flow catted DP. After adding the Rickspecd SRI and another fresh dyno tune by Vit, I netted 186hP again. I know o lost power running a smaller DP with a cat. I don't know how much. But whatever that value is, the SRI made up for it. I hope this helps.
 
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You will see me (Philippe) mentioned on the 2012 Si section of Vit's Blog when I did my original tune. He then talks about my retune with SRI on FB. For those who want detailed information.
 
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Because the Full Race Down Pipes have fitment issues and aren't consistent. It pushed my exhaust back and made it rattle against the exhaust hanger on the frame. I read about clearance issues around the catted Full Race downpipe as well. I didn't go with the PRL SRI because it puts the filter right in the heat.i was actually disappointed that PRL went that route instead of a shorter version of their CAI.
 
@jarvasdb1 the fitment issues you're talking about happened in 2012 when they first released the downpipe. Since then they've fixed any fitment issues they had with the exhaust. I even participated in sending my vehicle down there as a mock up vehicle to validate fitment for 2013 sedan's, and i also was contacted again to recommend any 2014 coupe/sedan owners for even more R&D or exhaust fitment. Honestly, i dont know any other fabrication company thats making 1100+whp manifolds.
 
I'm glad you were a part of that. Being that I lived in AZ for 8 years I was disappointed to find out that the order I placed towards the beginning of this year was delayed 2-3 weeks because it was being held at the Long Beach shipping dock. That was a surprise to me since I thought I was supporting a local American made product. But that's besides the point. Downpipes are an easy install. But since I needed a tune once the part was installed, I had it done at the same time. Max did the install and Vit tuned the car right after. The product I was shipped I would assume is new production since it had to be shipped in from overseas. Full Race's customer support is who told me it was coming from there. I never said anything about the power. If anything I said it took two new parts to accomplish the same power that the Full Race DP made by itself. I have no negative or hidden agenda against the company. I am simply a consumer giving my feed back. I have been a part of the scene since the mid 90's. This isn't my first modified car. All I have to say is that I am 100% happy with my RV-6 down pipe that had ZERO fitment issues. Amazing customer support as well. I'm not out to build an 1100WHP car. I'm modifying my grocery getter where fit and finish is key since it's not a dedicated track car. I just wanted a little more out of my 2012 Si.
 
jarvasdb1 said:
I'm glad you were a part of that. Being that I lived in AZ for 8 years I was disappointed to find out that the order I placed towards the beginning of this year was delayed 2-3 weeks because it was being held at the Long Beach shipping dock. That was a surprise to me since I thought I was supporting a local American made product. But that's besides the point. Downpipes are an easy install. But since I needed a tune once the part was installed, I had it done at the same time. Max did the install and Vit tuned the car right after. The product I was shipped I would assume is new production since it had to be shipped in from overseas. Full Race's customer support is who told me it was coming from there. I never said anything about the power. If anything I said it took two new parts to accomplish the same power that the Full Race DP made by itself. I have no negative or hidden agenda against the company. I am simply a consumer giving my feed back. I have been a part of the scene since the mid 90's. This isn't my first modified car. All I have to say is that I am 100% happy with my RV-6 down pipe that had ZERO fitment issues. Amazing customer support as well. I'm not out to build an 1100WHP car. I'm modifying my grocery getter where fit and finish is key since it's not a dedicated track car. I just wanted a little more out of my 2012 Si.
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The comment about the 1100whp+ manifolds was only a comment to indicate they make amazing product. however i can understand every company has there misakes and or issues
 
Well, I was considering going with the PRL SRI staying with stock mani and tb but I am now a bit reluctant because I am mostly worried about heat soak. I live in AZ and we dont get very much (nice weather) here IMO. It is almost 7 months a year of nasty 105 plus heat. I dont want to chance hyrdolock with thier CAI or others as my wife already wasted 1 engine on my other car with a CAI. But then I came across this which made sense to me, what do you all think?
"Ok now that we have some more data we can figure this out a bit more. 90 mph air moving through the system converts to 90x5280 ft is 475200 FEET per hour. Which is then
5702400 inches per hour 475200x12. Which is then 5702400 divided by 60 95040 inches per second.

With an average length of the intake being approx 24 inches so the charge is in the intake system for approx 95040 divided by 24 = 3960 inches per second per inch of pipe.

So now you know for every inch of pipe the air moves past that point at the speed of 3960 INCHES PER SECOND.

Any math majors out there ??? Considering an ID of 2 and a half inches with air moving at 3960 inches per second how long does any section of air remain in a pipe 24 inches long?

Now you know with out being a math major the air is moving so fast there simply isn't time for the heat from the intake system to transfer to the air charge.

And we have not even discussed the "Boundary layer air" yet. Very simply air moving through a tube does not move through the tube at the same speed. The air closest to the ID (inside) of the pipe eddies (floats around near the edge) and the air in the center of the pipe flows right passed this trapped air so it acts like INSULATION and also prevents the transfer of heat in addition to the speed of the air.

So the heat soak myth is well and properly busted with science.
 
That math only holds up if you're constantly moving. Heat soak generally occurs not when driving but when sitting in traffic and there is 0 air flow happening. Same with crawling around town. To say heat soak is a myth is false. If they claim their intake tract doesn't transfer heat to incoming air get your self an IAT sensor and watch it change throughout the day. If your car has been parked for any length of time in the sun pop the hood and feel that air box. I bet its hot and I bet that air sitting in it is hot. Same as sitting in traffic.

Can't just cut and paste half the story from an old honda fit forum....

http://www.hondafitforums.com/archive/index.php/t-1521.html


From same page:
"Stick your hand out the window at 90 mph and see what happens bet you my last paycheck it gets COLDER...... so much for "the heat soak" myth"


Yeah, well the human body cools itself through sweating and having the sweat evaporate. Sticking your slightly moist hand out the window is a lot different than a metal/plastic pipe stuck in your engine bay. Also your intake is not getting pelted with 90mph air with the hood closed.
 
Air intake temps def change when sitting at a light or in gridlock. You can watch them drastically change when you get moving at higher speeds.
 
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