Stock IM vs RBC IM

Don't know if it helps, but I'm currently working on a project that should test out just what kind of numbers we can achieve with the stock IM on a NA build. I just sent off the stock TB, intake runners (fuel injector base), plastic OEM manifold, Throttle Body Body Spacer (P2R) and new thermal TB gaskets, and Thermal Intake Manifold gasket to maxbore.com. He'll be boring the TB from 64mm to 68mm, port matching the throttle body spacer, gaskets and OEM IM to match. He'll also be reworking the intake runners by porting the runners roughly 2mm to remove all the casting marks and smooth the runners similar to what used to be offered by P2R before they discontinued it a few months ago. This coupled with my current mod list: RV6 catless dp, Rick spec'd 3.5" Intake, Tsudo Exhaust, Flashpro. If interested, I'll keep everyone posted on the dyno results post tune with VitViper. SHOULD yield some decent gains and would provide a decent comparison to a similarly bolt RBC setup.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/stealths-2012-si-sedan-build.9468/
Curious to know if you downed your car for this experiment or if you purchased oem parts..

Also what is maxbore charging you for all of the work?

Lastly, if you did buy second parts how much did this run you in total?
 
I bought the parts that were sent to maxbore from 323 on this forum for a great deal ($100 shipped). Maxbore is charging $315 for all of the work, which includes return shipping. The price breakdown is as follows: $80 (port work on intake runners), $100 (TB porting), $100 (port matching intake manifold and gaskets) $35 (boring TBS). If you were to run this entire project with your own parts you'd only be looking at $280-$315 (depending on whether or not you need your TBS worked on). Not too bad if you ask me considering just buying the Ported Intake Runners from P2R (when they were available) were $295 by themselves.
 
whats the best short ram intake to use with the zdx throttle body and stock intake manifold?
 
I have spoken to members privately, and they have said that if you like to drive in the upper rev range, the rbc really wakes up the engine, especially with a larger throttle body.

They say it wakes up the engine because it's gutless everywhere else !!! I'd rather have a smooth torque curve then just plain top end. Who the hell drives their car at 7k all day, come on haha !!
 
Excited to see what the work does for you Stealth. Qestion, why didn't you just go with the J series TB?
 
They say it wakes up the engine because it's gutless everywhere else !!! I'd rather have a smooth torque curve then just plain top end. Who the hell drives their car at 7k all day, come on haha !!

Actually, they don't say it's gutless everywhere else. Rather, they say they barely notice any loss of mid-range power, maybe because their foot, like mine, is buried in the carpet as the car screams to 7,500 RPMs. Some people like that, on a daily basis.

Finally, I just wish this car had a smooth torque curve, as you say, which it does not have from the factory. I also wish it had no rev-hang, which it definitely does have from the factory, and no clutch delay, which is annoying as hell from the factory. Folks have told me that bucking is improved with the RBC, too, and worth big money in my book, to be able to drive a car smoothly, like you could in oh, say 1970. I wish I'd never driven all the wonderful "analog" cars I have over the years. They never bucked at 25 mph over tiny bumps.

But hey, we're all friends here, driving our cars how we want to. You and I just have different experience, and it's okay. I drive the car, at 7k, every day. It's okay that you may not do that. :thumb: :fistpump: :).
 
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Yeah I get on it here and there on the freeways ( being red and loud just doesn't let me do it as much as I'd like haha). Just getting use to the car before I take it to the track. If you get a FlashPro it will solve all your problems. I have a smooth power and torque curve (well as smooth as it's going to get from my tuner) once I got it tuned with the FlashPro.

I think you are right about it being buried into the floor board haha ! It's a fun car. What do you mean with the bucking ??
 
The reason I didn't go with the J37 throttle body is because that would have been an additional cost of $379 (procivic.com) added to the cost of the project. That would have created additional down time when I was able to pick up the used OEM parts for $100 shipped. Buying the J37 separately would've brought the cost to close of that for a full ported rbc swap (minus injectors). I was looking for something that most members could easily do but haven't thought of without having to fork out tons of money for a ported rbc swap, just to lose the torque we all enjoy in daily driving. This way (hopefully), I'll be able to show solid gains throughout the rev range and provide a great option for those wishing to keep the OEM manifold setup. My only concern at this point is whether or not I'm going to be pushing the stock 310cc injectors to the limit. Guess we'll see...
 
Yeah I get on it here and there on the freeways ( being red and loud just doesn't let me do it as much as I'd like haha). Just getting use to the car before I take it to the track. If you get a FlashPro it will solve all your problems. I have a smooth power and torque curve (well as smooth as it's going to get from my tuner) once I got it tuned with the FlashPro.

I think you are right about it being buried into the floor board haha ! It's a fun car. What do you mean with the bucking ??
I have flashpro and a vittune. Oh, and red car = unwanted attention. That's why I got black. Bucking is more like, did you ever drive a car with driveline lash? That's what it feels like. Maybe it's just too light a gas pedal. Every bump seems to blip the throttle. It's not an easy car to drive smoothly at low speed unless you're at least 3k rpms.
 
I have flashpro and a vittune. Oh, and red car = unwanted attention. That's why I got black. Bucking is more like, did you ever drive a car with driveline lash? That's what it feels like. Maybe it's just too light a gas pedal. Every bump seems to blip the throttle. It's not an easy car to drive smoothly at low speed unless you're at least 3k rpms.
Can't say that I have, if I did I probably just thought the car needed a transmission service or a diff service. have you looked into one of those Throttle control things? It works with the DBW systems. It controls the sensitivity of the pedal.
 
The reason I didn't go with the J37 throttle body is because that would have been an additional cost of $379 (procivic.com) added to the cost of the project. That would have created additional down time when I was able to pick up the used OEM parts for $100 shipped. Buying the J37 separately would've brought the cost to close of that for a full ported rbc swap (minus injectors). I was looking for something that most members could easily do but haven't thought of without having to fork out tons of money for a ported rbc swap, just to lose the torque we all enjoy in daily driving. This way (hopefully), I'll be able to show solid gains throughout the rev range and provide a great option for those wishing to keep the OEM manifold setup. My only concern at this point is whether or not I'm going to be pushing the stock 310cc injectors to the limit. Guess we'll see...
Gotcha, can't wait to see the results. I have a similar set up in mind as yours but just with the J series TB, if you make decent power, i will go your route.
 
I've only read up on it a little bit, but I think Blitz,Buddy Club make them. I still have to do some more research for it.
 
You lost me there. Pedal sensitivity can be changed how? (They used to use spring tension.)

To put it simply, when you press the gas pedal at about 25% of the way the throttle controller will make the computer believe you are pushing it 50% of the way or vice versa. I'm not sure if you can adjust the response of the throttle to be more sluggish though.
 
They're still has to be something mechanical on the gas pedal that acts like a spring. It may be a spring I have just never looked under their.
 
They're still has to be something mechanical on the gas pedal that acts like a spring. It may be a spring I have just never looked under their.

Have you ever seen one of these before?
5a8emehy.jpg
 

I had one on my previous car. It acts the same way I explained. You have different settings which will adjust the throttle response to be more sluggish or to react quicker. It's kind of redundant because you could do the same thing by just pressing the gas pedal a bit harder than you're used to.

There was nothing mechanical to it though. You can just plug it in and adjust the throttle response live.
 
They're still has to be something mechanical on the gas pedal that acts like a spring. It may be a spring I have just never looked under their.
I'm pretty sure there is, how else would the pedal come back :P Are you thinking a stonger spring would help ? I know the Fit guys put another spring to make the throttle pedal harder.
 
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