thinking about pioneer 80prs...

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pukemon

Well-Known Member
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And getting rid of stock everything so I have a few questions. What exactly does the I mid default to when you install aftermarket head unit? I mid is cool but the only screen I'd really like to keep is the current mpg. Also, will any functions of the dpad work still for volume and track select? That is mainly what I would to function still. The rear view camera and Bluetooth controls aren't all that necessary. I wouldn't mind keeping the Bluetooth controls,ore for the factory mic placement and the fact it is tied into two other functions making it basically impossible to separate. Also, would any anti theft features of the car be lost. I totally forgot if that is tied into the factory head unit. I wouldnt keeping the OEM hu but I just keep seeing too many things pointing to much better sound quality going aftermarket. Plus, it would be cheaper, cleaner and more efficient to use an aftermarket hu rather that getting DSP and equalizers to clean up a bad signal/eq.

Other than that, by the time I start seriously trying to piece my install together, alpine's hu that is rumored to be 100% compatible with our civics might be out. For the price rumored, i am hoping it has all the bells and whistles, especially fuel featured eq and time alignment, but honestly I hope there is a non navigation unit as I don't really want to pay for something I'd rather not use.

In the meantime, what reliable amps come recommended? I am thinking of running some nice components up front that can handle some juice because I plan on taking out all the rear speakers to offset the weight of the sub. Anybody here have an opinion on alpine's type r slim sub? It is about 10lbs lighter than the full sub and should require about 25-50% less enclosure. And I will be running that sealed of course. And one last question for now, when I take out the rear speakers and crappy sub should I seal the holes or leave open? I do plan on dampening the rear deck and truck BTW. And if you made it this far, thanks for reading and double thanks for posting if you have input to add.
 
You will only lose the Audio related screen in the iMid. In order to get the steering wheel controls to work, you will need to get a harness. Compatibility is still not 100% yet on these I believe. I am pretty sure you will lose Bluetooth controls. I haven't checked as I am still in the middle of an install/setup of a Pioneer head unit.

Maybe someone with a '13 can chime in about the backup cam if they have replaced the head unit.
 
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Yes. I recall seeing a couple picture of the rear speakers. Probably and 2lbs tops, both of them. The sub also doesn't look like more than 3 lbs tops. The rears will be removed regardless if I am not using them. I am guessing that will be ~5 lbs weight reduction. Enough to still offset what is going in slightly.
 
pukemon said:
Yes. I recall seeing a couple picture of the rear speakers. Probably and 2lbs tops, both of them. The sub also doesn't look like more than 3 lbs tops. The rears will be removed regardless if I am not using them. I am guessing that will be ~5 lbs weight reduction. Enough to still offset what is going in slightly.
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Honestly, I would upgrade the rear speakers and keep the stock sub. Why do you feel the need to take them out? If it is strictly for weight purposes, that is negligible in the overall scheme of things. I think you would be sacrificing sound quality/balance by only having a sub/s in the rear. Unless, of course, all you really want is the bass?
 
Lol. I've been listening to other peoples setups lately, custom and OEM, and it is few and far in between when rears do a setup justice. I plan on going around 100w RMS in the front and 250 or 500 for the sub. And no. I don't want all bass. Having an extremely good sound system in my living just everyday makes me realize more and more how poorly car audio setups are. Most people judge a system by the SPL, quantity of speakers and/or bass. All that is irrelevant if you have all your frequency covered and it all blends well. Getting it to blend well in a vehicle is the hardest part.

BTW, I run full towers, medium towers, a center and 2 12" subs off a receiver with audyssey xt32. I barely have the gain turned up on my subs. Like less than 1/8 turn of the use able adjustment and some slight tweaking to audyssey's auto eq. I have one of the best sounding systems I've heard and it cost less than $3000. I've heard better, but audio enthusiasts/audiophiles with more money than sense had those setups. The best setup I've ever heard was from some not too fancy speakers, some hsu subwoofers and trinnov processing. Some of the best imaging I've heard ever. I won't get that from a $2000 budget in a sport compact car but I want it to sound nice enough people want to sample music outside their usual tastes or want to sit shotgun in my car. Oh and I bought a coupe because I plan on only seating and listening for two. Rear speakers will not be needed for passengers.
 
I guess it all depends on where you like to be within the sound stage. I prefer to be firmly in the middle enveloped within the music as opposed to it being in front of me. I have actually had my rears out for a few days and it is driving me nuts. I also have always felt that things seem a bit more balanced with a good matched set of front and rear speakers. Obviously an amp alone for the interior speakers would go a long way in sound quality, too.

Btw, you mentioned the Pioneer PRS head unit. Have you considered matching it with a PRS amp?
 
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I guess I was in that school of thought about the rears but as I've been listening to others peoples setup with scrutinizing ears and the funny looks I've had when messing with the fade and I realized the rears are only necessary when you have rear passengers. I rode in my truck all weekend and messed with the fade and all the way front or one tick to the the rears was all that I needed. Putting any value in the back, was unnecessary. I sound dampened my truck and got rid of all the vibrations, including the roof in 2007. Having a thicker windshield is about the only thing that help there. My volume is almost double, low to no distortion and I a using factory head unit with 6x8 pioneers 3 ways. Sounds better than the civic with "premium" system. I expect sound dampening will do wonders for my civic.

I am still up in the air about the 80prs and amps. I plan on trying to piece the major components off of craigslist to save much money. If I went with new amps right now from what I know, it would probably be jl audio class d amps for sub and either/or class a/b,d for the components. Yes, I actually have looked at the PRS stuff BTW. Out of my budget really. The 99prs I believe is msrp $1400. I am sure you can get it much cheaper but not much as it seems only boutique car audio stores would carry something like that. The PRS amps are pretty pricey too.

I really am hoping to score some nice deals locally for people upgrading or getting rid of their car. That is part of the reason I don't have my mind made up on any one brand. I would really like to get a 5 channel amp for space and weight reasons, but car audio stuff isnt as reliable sometimes due to all the temperature and vibration abuse these electronics will see. Allowing myself this time to investigate, listen, research and thrift shop will allow me to stretch my hard $2000 budget also. Also, hoping alpine puts a very premium unit intended for our civics/Hondas. I might stretch my budget a little to go that route if so.
 
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I moved my fade to 3/4 to the rear and think it sounds 100 percent better,more balanced,better highs( not dominate) and the bass is pounding my seats with some songs( which is new to me). Audio is truly a personal choice, I could never not use the back speakers,I'm not a big fan of complete separation bass,mid and treble so my set up works for me but may not for someone else.i really didn't lose much volume doing the fader to back,it may have to go to 25 now to " thump " but neverless I'm finally happy and glad I'm done and can concentrate on hfp suspension.
 
By te way the factory speaks weigh less than a pound I believe,mine were so light I couldn't believe it.
 
bobshur said:
I moved my fade to 3/4 to the rear and think it sounds 100 percent better,more balanced,better highs( not dominate) and the bass is pounding my seats with some songs( which is new to me). Audio is truly a personal choice, I could never not use the back speakers,I'm not a big fan of complete separation bass,mid and treble so my set up works for me but may not for someone else.i really didn't lose much volume doing the fader to back,it may have to go to 25 now to " thump " but neverless I'm finally happy and glad I'm done and can concentrate on hfp suspension.
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I wholeheartedly agree!
 
bobshur said:
I moved my fade to 3/4 to the rear and think it sounds 100 percent better,more balanced,better highs( not dominate) and the bass is pounding my seats with some songs( which is new to me). Audio is truly a personal choice, I could never not use the back speakers,I'm not a big fan of complete separation bass,mid and treble so my set up works for me but may not for someone else.i really didn't lose much volume doing the fader to back,it may have to go to 25 now to " thump " but neverless I'm finally happy and glad I'm done and can concentrate on hfp suspension.
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you're absolutely right. audio is a personal choice. what works for you may not work for others. now that i think about it, i haven't tried "listening" with rear only, but i am pretty sure it will be wimpy for me. moving on, i fall into the category of listening to a wide selection of eclectic music. upgrading my home system in the last two years to an onkyo 3009 and two hsu research subs and polk monitor towers totally redefined what music and movies sound like. having a system with "capability" and being able to tweak is paramount. it changed it so much, i went exclusively to cd and flac files. mp3's are so terrible now. the real difference comes when listening to music with real instruments. when it sounds like the band is right there in the recording studio or on stage, your perception of music and the quality of it changes. i do want enough volume i can jam out while working outside of my car, but i don't need volume to rock out my neighbors. and very few people will experience what good bass sounds like. i mean good bass. multiple premium subwoofers, key word multiple, changes up how clean, smooth and low bass can get in a proper environment. i know that will be hard to reproduce in a car, but i am not aiming for that. i am just hoping to hit 30hz clean undistorted bass in a sealed enclosure, with automobile filling volume, with ample clean mids and treble. all while trying to keep a low profile and not blowing out the budget.

and wow squiggy. i gave both the rear speakers 2lbs together tops. less than a pound for both of them and honda calling that premium is pretty wacky. does the sub even break 2lbs? geez.
 
Even though it is set further to the rear it still powers well in the fronts,I can feel the door speaker on my leg. I know what you mean about home,I love the fact that I have a nice theater set-up but I never listen to music on it,not sure why.
 
bobshur said:
Even though it is set further to the rear it still powers well in the fronts,I can feel the door speaker on my leg. I know what you mean about home,I love the fact that I have a nice theater set-up but I never listen to music on it,not sure why.
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get some high bit rate flacs or even .wav files. or use some old cd's or buy some cheap ones used just to convert them to flac's. and make sure you throw in a nice selection of fully featured bands with real instruments. some folk music/blues/acoustic/classical. you'll appreciate it. even if you don't like the music enough to jam to or share with friends, there is some art in there that many won't be able to see because the listen to music sooooo looooosssy and compressed and then listen to crappy earphones or crappy speakers. to put it into perspective for the naysayers in here, you can tell a mp3, even 320 constant kbr from a flac/wav file on my surround sound system in my home theater. easy comparison if you have great hearing still. doing the abx blind test minus the blind in a vehicle is a much harder comparison because of all the variable factors in an auto. i want my system at least good enough you could do the mp3/aac vs flac/wav in my civic and easily pick which one most of the time.
 
wow. i dug a little deeper on the pioneer 99prs and it doesn't have bluetooth out of the box and a 2.5mm jack!! WTF?! gotta buy a bluetooth adapter and 2.5>3.5mm adapter? and msrp $1200? LOL. hell no pioneer.
 
another question. if i got the 80prs or another head unit with active crossovers, would a 4 channel amp be necessary or could i power the tweeter off the head unit sufficiently? i haven't found a clear answer or my search skills are less than par today.
 
pukemon said:
another question. if i got the 80prs or another head unit with active crossovers, would a 4 channel amp be necessary or could i power the tweeter off the head unit sufficiently? i haven't found a clear answer or my search skills are less than par today.
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If you got components, wouldn't wires go into the crossover first?
 
I am not talking about the passive crossovers that come with components. I want to equalize direct from the head unit.
 
pukemon said:
I am not talking about the passive crossovers that come with components. I want to equalize direct from the head unit.
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Are you just wanting to equalize from the head unit or adjust the level? I imagine you could run the preouts to the amp and only connect the front mids to it. You could then connect the tweeters directly to the head unit, BUT you will have different levels of amplification. Another thing to determine is how the active crossovers work. Will they work with the normal speaker output as well as the preouts?
 
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