22mm progress rear sway bar coupe si

nat3d said:
do i NEED to upgrade the end links? i have this and havnt installed it yet.
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No. It's true that the Moog end links are heavier duty but the stock units are okay too, just not as beefy. That's the opinion of redshift as posted on their website.
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
No. It's true that the Moog end links are heavier duty but the stock units are okay too, just not as beefy. That's the opinion of redshift as posted on their website.
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ok thanks man. do you think apart from being heavier duty and not as likely to break they would improve rigidity?
 
nat3d said:
ok thanks man. do you think apart from being heavier duty and not as likely to break they would improve rigidity?
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Yes to both, although I have no idea how many would fail in a standardized test.
Here's the quote from Redshift, who sells the upgrade:


Hi Performance Rear
Swaybar Endlinks
The stock rear swaybar endlinks work fine; so this is not a must-have, but still they will add some rigidity to the rear swaybar setup (which is good).

IN STOCK
 
nat3d said:
ok thanks man. do you think apart from being heavier duty and not as likely to break they would improve rigidity?
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Besides the peace of mind, two other variables are the model and year you have.
(I have an '12 SI and will still do the upgrade) Best to ask: Contact Info:
RedShift Motorsports
480 Slocum Ave.
Exeter, PA 18643
tele: 570-407-9100
Send email
Hours: 9-5PM, M-F
 
On the 8th gen the weak link was not the stock endlink but the mounting point on the rear lower arm. The reinforcement brackets started being included because people were breaking their frame mounting points, not their endlinks.

If you have the $$ get the moog endlinks but if you just don't have it all at once, don't worry about it. Ive been running my stock endlinks for almost two years with the 22mm bar without issue. I have an 8th gen coupe.

That said, on the wifes sedan, she is getting the moogs cause her car is heavier and she drives like a beast.
 
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Nix said:
On the 8th gen the weak link was not the stock endlink but the mounting point on the rear lower arm. The reinforcement brackets started being included because people were breaking their frame mounting points, not their endlinks.

If you have the $$ get the moog endlinks but if you just don't have it all at once, don't worry about it. Ive been running my stock endlinks for almost two years with the 22mm bar without issue. I have an 8th gen coupe.

That said, on the wifes sedan, she is getting the moogs cause her car is heavier and she drives like a beast.
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im gonna get the moogs but i gotta wait a little i just ordered that new takeda intake so gotta hold off. even with my bonus next paycheck cuz i gotta pay the excise tax......
 
bigger front bar will make the car feel like it's more on rails and corner flatter, but it will slow the car down through the turns because it will make the car understeer. So, some like the feel, but if you want performance, don't do it. Do just the rear.

Chris
 
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Getting the stock end link off shouldn't be too hard. I've done 2 installs already on NY cars that are all salt corroded and rusty. Best advice is to hit all the nuts with PB blaster penetrating oil and to also take a wire brush and clean the threads before you try and take them off. There will be a ton of crud in the threads and trying to remove the nut will just get it stuck.

I got one stuck and it sucked. If you get it stuck and it just won't come off, try to tighten it back down and clean the threads again. Working it back and forth seems to help if there is a thread that is "boogered" and bent over.

Just brush em like you brush your teeth before you start and it will be much easier.

Clean them up real nice before you put em' back on too. Get all the penetrating oil off.
 
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It sucks bc the nuts are nylocks. Lol. I heard that Kroil is better than PB blaster.
 
Nix said:
On the 8th gen the weak link was not the stock endlink but the mounting point on the rear lower arm. The reinforcement brackets started being included because people were breaking their frame mounting points, not their endlinks.

If you have the $$ get the moog endlinks but if you just don't have it all at once, don't worry about it. Ive been running my stock endlinks for almost two years with the 22mm bar without issue. I have an 8th gen coupe.

That said, on the wifes sedan, she is getting the moogs cause her car is heavier and she drives like a beast.
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Ok, so your wife drives like a beast. That's why those 30,000 mile tires wear out in 15,000 miles, right? It's all her.
 
Dar-Dar said:
It sucks bc the nuts are nylocks. Lol. I heard that Kroil is better than PB blaster.
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thanks for the Kroil tip... info like that can be invaluable. (Actually, No, it's worth $70.00 if you save the stock end links)
 
Impact wrench normally doesn't work on the rear swaybar. You have to hold the stud with an allen key and turn the nut with a box wrech of some sort (like an open ended wrench). And Nix above has it exactly correct.... wire brush to clean the threads really good and pb blaster (or whatever you have around like WD40... they all work good). And you will be successful. Not hard if you do it that way.

Chris
 
Or, get new nylock nuts and hack the other ones off... you could make a cut in them with a zip cut wheel, or for those without air compressors, a Dremel tool, or a nut splitter. Once they have a split, the pressure is released they will be much easier to remove.
 
Or you can torch and melt the plastic off. Lol.
 
nat3d said:
do i NEED to upgrade the end links? i have this and havnt installed it yet.
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You don't 'have to', no, but i sure would. If you get under the car you can't help but notice how thin and fragile the OEM end links look. After seeing them I ordered the Moogs right away. Those original "end links" are the weak links.
 
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