3M Paint Defender. Liquid Clear Bra?

The paint is Honda trying to continue their leadership in being conscious of the environment. The same way they got dinged for the materials in the 2012 civic interior is them getting dinged for the paint. It's a much less hazardous paint that they use but it's just not holding up well enough. The interior materials had a lot less carcinogens used in making them but people hated them. At least they updated the interiors. I think the paint is going to be a larger issue and with regulations getting tighter all the time I don't think they will be switching back.

I agree that they need to do something to fix it since the chipping is a widespread issue.

hotdogjohnny - I think I saw surfboards in one of your pics in another post. Remember Clark Foam? They made like 99% of the foam blanks used in surfboards. A couple years ago they just straight closed up shop and said tough shiz. Regulations changed and they couldn't make the foam without a huge cost/investment in new facilities. Unwilling to move forward they simply stopped making that particular foam. Certainly the void has been filled by other companies but the nice thing is that surf technology was forced to progress, change, and ultimately there are better boards out now. I think the same thing will happen with the paint. It just sucks for right now.
 
:1:. You nailed it. Sometimes progress sucks . . . 'til they get it right. And when I decide to be a first adopter on a product, I know the risks. I just had no idea I was a beta tester for this hideous new paint, that's all.
 
Yeah, they've been using it for a few years now.... I would recommend trying out either this paint defender stuff or one of the new coatings that are available for paint protection. Some of them are very very hard and durable.

22PLE make some fantastic coatings. It might be hard enough to help protect the cheap Honda paint. It's supposed to last almost 2 years.

http://professionaldetailing.com/22ple-vx1-review/
 
Nix said:
Yeah, they've been using it for a few years now.... I would recommend trying out either this paint defender stuff or one of the new coatings that are available for paint protection. Some of them are very very hard and durable.

22PLE make some fantastic coatings. It might be hard enough to help protect the cheap Honda paint. It's supposed to last almost 2 years.

http://professionaldetailing.com/22ple-vx1-review/
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Thank you Nix. That's very helpful. I'll be sure to look into 22ple. I have a note to look at the 3m stuff. The only thing that holds me back is that I read that it's grippy like rubber. Also, I think I'd have to do the whole hood or the line would show too much (CBP paint).
 
And you'll probably see the dirt build up on the edge of the line if you dont do the whole hood i would think ???





YAAAY I HIT THE 4 DIGI'S WITH POSTS :rockwoot::spinning::domokundance::ohsnap::turbospin: :lock:
 
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hotdogjohnny said:
Thank you Nix. That's very helpful. I'll be sure to look into 22ple. I have a note to look at the 3m stuff. The only thing that holds me back is that I read that it's grippy like rubber. Also, I think I'd have to do the whole hood or the line would show too much (CBP paint).
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You might end up using two cans (or 1 1/2)for the entire hood. It sucks about the feel of the rubber. I wonder if waxing it will make it feel smoother. Lol.
 
I wonder if clear plasti-dip would do the same thing? At least if you were going on a long trip or a track session and wanted to avoid nicks and dings temporarily. We all know it comes off easy when you're done!
 
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You would need a priming base for the clear plasti-dip. The priming base would be plasti-dip. Lol.
 
Doh. I thought the clear worked just like regular.... oh well... white and then clear I guess for the dragon this year...
 
I made the comment on the rubber feel a bit back and putting off some people.

But when u run your rag from a non coated spot to the coated spot the microfiber will glide on the paint and catch on the paint defender part. It is still a smooth harder surface but if u dig your nails in it would give.

I think at the price it's at least worth coating your side mirrors. Then see if u want to do your hood. I did the front leading edge and from 3 ft away in normal conditions u can't tell. Unless there is reflection and u can tell that there is a change in surface texture.

Next time I am taking off the bumper and coating that thing good!

FYI I used one can for the leading edge. Bumper and side mirrors with a bit left over. I do believe I should have done another past so maybe it should have been 1.5 cans for that
 
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Dar-Dar said:
You would need a priming base for the clear plasti-dip. The priming base would be plasti-dip. Lol.
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From their website:

"While Plasti Dip with a Primer undercoat can be removed with a great deal of effort, the Primer itself cannot be removed from the original surface once it has dried. Please use care when applying Plasti Dip Primer."
 
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Nix said:
I wonder if clear plasti-dip would do the same thing? At least if you were going on a long trip or a track session and wanted to avoid nicks and dings temporarily. We all know it comes off easy when you're done!
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My bro did this prior to a trip we took from LA to NO. He has an Audi 4S. I LOVED that car. We arrived many hours ahead of schedule :banana whip2: because we left early . . . just to be clear.

But it's not a good look for long-term use.
 
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squiggy said:
From their website:

"While Plasti Dip with a Primer undercoat can be removed with a great deal of effort, the Primer itself cannot be removed from the original surface once it has dried. Please use care when applying Plasti Dip Primer."
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I heard Fonzi saying that you can get bad runs or uneven coating. Lol. By plasti-dip primer base, I meant the regular black or gray plasti-dip.

The clear plasti-dip does look more of a matte finish than a clear shiny look that the 3m provides. Either products are definitely great for track use.
 
Dar-Dar said:
I heard Fonzi saying that you can get bad runs or uneven coating. Lol. By plasti-dip primer base, I meant the regular black or gray plasti-dip.
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That is what I figured, but I just wanted to make sure there was clarification in the thread before someone jacked up their car.
 
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I was considering a clear coat before driving down to the dragon, but using a color before clear coat would be difficult with DBP.
 
squiggy said:
I was considering a clear coat before driving down to the dragon, but using a color before clear coat would be difficult with DBP.
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You can also use painter's tape. A roll should be more than enough for the front end.
hin%20tape.jpg
 
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