DIY PRL CAI for Stock Manifold w/ Battery Relocation

DSpizzle

DSpizzle

Well-Known Member
173
73
Oviedo, FL
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Sedan
Alright. This is my First DIY. This is a pretty straight forward Install. I got a little tired of taking pictures toward the end. I believe I got it all though.
This is the Kit that I got.
http://prlmotorsports.com/prlmotors...ion2012civicsistockmanifold.aspx#.U2zEkK1dV5U
Make sure to have extra clutch fluid.
Step 1:
Perform all the steps for Resonator Delete. I left snorkel in because its out of the way.

Step 2:
Remove stock Manifold. See the 5 RED circles below.
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Remove top of airbox with the two RED clamps and pull up on lower airbox where the BLUE is. It is only held down by rubber grommets at this point.
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Remove battery to get to lower tubing.
There are 2 bolts holding the tubing in on the underside of the battery bracket marked by YELLOW. remove tubing. (All Stock intake should now be gone).
Step 3:
Now remove the Battery Tray. 3 visible RED bolts and 2 on the underside where PURPLE is. (Save bolts, they are reused with new kit.
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Step 4:
Time to remove old clutch line. Break this nut loose but do not fully remove. Then slide that silver clip out.
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Loosen the the RED with 2 wrenches. Then remove the 2 bolts in YELLOW from the transmission (Save these 2 bolts). Take clutch line and bracket out at same time. Fluid will leak a little.
The Bleed valve is behind this tag in BLUE for after the new line is installed.DSC_0770.JPG
Step 5: Install Provided bracket and reuse bolts. Torque to 20Ft Lbs
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Step 6:
Connect only this side of clutch line. Tighten all the way and add the silver clamp that was removed earlier back on.
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Step 7:
Install battery relocation tray. This uses 3 of the previous 4 bolts and included the ECU bracket bolt.DSC_0777.JPG
Step 8:
Run clutch line up through rubber grommet and connect to female side of clutch line. Tighten all the way.
DSC_0776.JPG
Step 8:
Bleed clutch.
I have read different things here. This is what I did.
-Removed gray cap, and rubber cap on bleed valve
-Pumped clutch about 3-4 times
-held clutch down with piece of wood
-broke open bleed valve
-closed bleed valve and repeated until the clutch felt right.
Make sure fluid is topped off or you will have to start over...
Note: After my install, my clutch was still wrong on my first drive. There is plenty of room to get in there after its installed.
Step 9:
Batter goes into the tray opposite of the way you removed. Positive side should be closes to front headlight.
The wiring harness must be loosened for it to reach. Dont forget to add the provided terminal extension to positive side.
Negative harness should reach just fine.
Use J Hooks from before for battery tie down in RED
The brown clip needs to be removed and moved to get enough slack in positive harness YELLOW
Battery tie down bolt needs to be replaced with the one provided with rubber on it. Place washer under rubber. GREEN
 

Attachments

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Step 9:
Batter goes into the tray opposite of the way you removed. Positive side should be closes to front headlight.
The wiring harness must be loosened for it to reach. Dont forget to add the provided terminal extension to positive side.
Negative harness should reach just fine.
Use J Hooks from before for battery tie down in RED
The brown clip needs to be removed and moved to get enough slack in positive harness YELLOW
Battery tie down bolt needs to be replaced with the one provided with rubber on it. Place washer under rubber. GREEN
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Step 10:
Pay attention to the tubing. Most is not needed anymore. Remove the YELLOW and Connect the two RED parts taking everything in the middle out. There is coolant in these lines so have a rag ready.
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Step 11:
Now lets add the in intake. Make sure to put the clamps on before putting the tubing together. Put all piping together as seen below. Dont forget the filter in the wheel well!
Add sensor
After everything is where you want it, tighten clamps.
Add provider filter up top, close wheel well and start her up!
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Please let me know if I missed anything or can clarify anything better. The worst part is the clutch line. The rest is just patience.
Good Luck!
Sorry @Cbland13Si for stealing your idea! Just thought it was so cool!
 
First impressions...
Nice and quiet for every day driving but once you open it up a little.... Release the Beast.
Sounds awesome. Good increase in power as well..
 
@DSpizzle thank you for the DIY. I installed mine this weekend and it was a lot of help. One thing, could anyone offer any suggestions regarding the positive battery terminal extension. I tightened the extension as far as it would go and it still would not grab the battery post and will come off easy. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Thanks for this guide, I will be following it when I do my install soon. I do have concerns about bleeding the valve though.
 
Just did this install today. Thanks @DSpizzle for the DIY. Not sure I could have done it all without having some major headaches. Also did the Clutch Delay Valve delete while I was in there. Combined with a Vit tune, what a difference this made. Felt the difference right away.
 
I can't believe it took this long for a DIY on this! Good job.

Good to see you did the Clutch Delay Valve delete. Did you put some better fluid in as well?
 
I put in some Honda High Performance fluid. Not sure if its better than what was in it though.
 
glad this is here, il be ordering my kit soon!

Tom's Si said:
@DSpizzle thank you for the DIY. I installed mine this weekend and it was a lot of help. One thing, could anyone offer any suggestions regarding the positive battery terminal extension. I tightened the extension as far as it would go and it still would not grab the battery post and will come off easy. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
Click to expand...

i have this exact same issue! i dont know what it is maybe a possible bent ring or whatever?
 
I also had the same issue with the positive battery extension. Not sure why it does this but I just added a washer behind the nut and that added the extra tension required to hold to the battery post.
 
Sarcras said:
Just did this install today. Thanks @DSpizzle for the DIY. Not sure I could have done it all without having some major headaches. Also did the Clutch Delay Valve delete while I was in there. Combined with a Vit tune, what a difference this made. Felt the difference right away.
Click to expand...
How did the clutch feel after the delete? I've been contemplating if I should do it or not. I've always been a cable clutch guy and haven't had a good experience with hydro clutches.
 
@jarvasdb1 The cdv delete is absolutely worth the effort. I can't tell you how the clutch feel changed with just the delete because I put in performance DOT4 fluid when I did it. With the new fluid and the cdv delete the clutch does feel a little bit stiffer, but it is hardly noticeable. Doing the delete, however, does give you complete control of the clutch movement as the cdv regulated the amount of fluid getting to the clutch. If you have ever noticed grinding gears when there was nothing you did wrong it was probably due to trying to shift faster than the cdv was allowing.
 
Sarcras said:
@jarvasdb1 The cdv delete is absolutely worth the effort. I can't tell you how the clutch feel changed with just the delete because I put in performance DOT4 fluid when I did it. With the new fluid and the cdv delete the clutch does feel a little bit stiffer, but it is hardly noticeable. Doing the delete, however, does give you complete control of the clutch movement as the cdv regulated the amount of fluid getting to the clutch. If you have ever noticed grinding gears when there was nothing you did wrong it was probably due to trying to shift faster than the cdv was allowing.
Click to expand...
I was under the impression that the cdv only regulated fluid flow when releasing the clutch, not depressing it. Is this not the case?
 
Bulkybear said:
I was under the impression that the cdv only regulated fluid flow when releasing the clutch, not depressing it. Is this not the case?
Click to expand...
I am not a technician but from my personal experience it did effect both. There were several times when shifting, especially when shifting from 1st to 2nd, it would grind. I have been driving a stick for 14 years and i know that what I was doing did not warrant a grind. After doing some research I found other people with the same problem and the resolution was removing the cdv. I did exactly that and have not had a single grind since then.
 
COMPLETE CONTROL is what I'm after....hence the reason why I loved Cable Clutches. Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely do it. I definitely want a stiffer pedal feel. My 85 CRX's clutch felt like a race car when it came to clutches.
 
Glad to hear you're gonna do it. It was a pretty simple thing to do except getting the stupid "C" clip off. I would also suggest a DOT4 fluid change. I think it made for a little bit of a stiffer pedal feel. Good luck with the delete.
 
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