Honda-Fan's Silver Machine

Thanks, @webby . That write-up by Vit Viper was extremely helpful. If the RBC and all of that are supporting mods and don't really do anything by themselves, then I think I'll continue on finding things to lighten.
@sunofwolf It's fine for the street-- mine has a 4.5'' diameter muffler opening. The cabin drone is pretty pronounced before it breaks in, so no radio for like 2-3 weeks.

I'm also having to replace things as my car continues to age--it's fun to swap in slightly nicer than OEM stuff. The next thing I'm gonna do is the rear shocks. I have some KYBs on order. I was gonna do that JDM bumper swap-- but I got to see one in person.

Big NO.
 
Thanks, @webby . That write-up by Vit Viper was extremely helpful. If the RBC and all of that are supporting mods and don't really do anything by themselves, then I think I'll continue on finding things to lighten.
@sunofwolf It's fine for the street-- mine has a 4.5'' diameter muffler opening. The cabin drone is pretty pronounced before it breaks in, so no radio for like 2-3 weeks.

I'm also having to replace things as my car continues to age--it's fun to swap in slightly nicer than OEM stuff. The next thing I'm gonna do is the rear shocks. I have some KYBs on order. I was gonna do that JDM bumper swap-- but I got to see one in person.

Big NO.
What year si you got?

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200hp at the wheel isn't bad for a na 4 that also gets great mpg, I don't want to mod the car too much, I all ways hate the trash can stock exhaust they put on everything now. I got a 2013 si with 20k miles.
 
his blog is down, so you can't see the original article without pulling up a snapshot from archive

https://web.archive.org/web/2015031...onda-civic-si-rbc-intake-manifold-comparison/

Based on the outcome of this it seems like RBC isn't a great option for the DD.

I made 200 whp without the RBC swap I eventually did the swap but I also was going boosted. I definitely could feel a difference at the lower end with the RBC intake manifold.

From the post above:
  • Below 2100 rpm there is as much as 12 ft lbs of torque lost when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 2100 to 3500 rpm there are minor torque gains (1-6wtq) when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 3650 rpm until 5750 rpm there is nothing but bad news when using the RBC intake manifold — as much as 15 ft lbs of torque lost!
  • After 6200 rpm is some good news — we begin to see minor gains, based on “peak” numbers, we only got a 6whp gain using the RBC.
  • At ~7150 rpm there is a 7whp gain.
  • At 7500 rpm there is a 11whp gain.
Did you only go RBC because you were going FI?
 
Based on the outcome of this it seems like RBC isn't a great option for the DD.



From the post above:
  • Below 2100 rpm there is as much as 12 ft lbs of torque lost when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 2100 to 3500 rpm there are minor torque gains (1-6wtq) when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 3650 rpm until 5750 rpm there is nothing but bad news when using the RBC intake manifold — as much as 15 ft lbs of torque lost!
  • After 6200 rpm is some good news — we begin to see minor gains, based on “peak” numbers, we only got a 6whp gain using the RBC.
  • At ~7150 rpm there is a 7whp gain.
  • At 7500 rpm there is a 11whp gain.
Did you only go RBC because you were going FI?
Yep, if I were going to stay NA I would have stuck with the factory R40 intake manifold. But I knew I was either going supercharger or turbo charged. Once I decided what my goals were I swapped the IM.
 
@bauer311 I only have a '13 LX. :)

Do you have to have the block forged for Forced Induction, or is it okay stock? I'm taking all of the notes.
The rbc is for the si engine or maybe I’m super confused now. The lx has the r18 engine. Are you trying to do an engine swap? Maybe I missed what was going on
 
Based on the outcome of this it seems like RBC isn't a great option for the DD.



From the post above:
  • Below 2100 rpm there is as much as 12 ft lbs of torque lost when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 2100 to 3500 rpm there are minor torque gains (1-6wtq) when using the RBC intake manifold.
  • From 3650 rpm until 5750 rpm there is nothing but bad news when using the RBC intake manifold — as much as 15 ft lbs of torque lost!
  • After 6200 rpm is some good news — we begin to see minor gains, based on “peak” numbers, we only got a 6whp gain using the RBC.
  • At ~7150 rpm there is a 7whp gain.
  • At 7500 rpm there is a 11whp gain.
Did you only go RBC because you were going FI?
rbc is a nightmare for a DD, as a lot of aftermarket parts are
 
The rbc is for the si engine or maybe I’m super confused now. The lx has the r18 engine. Are you trying to do an engine swap? Maybe I missed what was going on

Yes-- sorry, I should've probably been clearer. My current engine is way too high mileage to risk doing much more to it. If I went ahead with the mods, I'd pick up a Civic Si engine, too.
 
Yes-- sorry, I should've probably been clearer. My current engine is way too high mileage to risk doing much more to it. If I went ahead with the mods, I'd pick up a Civic Si engine, too.
You can find K24Z3 engines much cheaper than the K24Z7 just swap the oil pan to fit the mount.
 
as bad as this sounds, id trade some low end power just for the looks of the rbc and higher end power. its just looks so much better. steve from etunez suggested to use the bigger rdx injectors with it to make more power. always though the stock injectors were enough to make peak power.
 
The RDX injectors work well. Since I went with DW1000cc injectors that I used with the RBC intake manifold when I was NA since I was going turbocharged. DW makes custom Bosch injectors for the 9th gen to go into the RBC without drilling the injector ports.
 
as bad as this sounds, id trade some low end power just for the looks of the rbc and higher end power. its just looks so much better. steve from etunez suggested to use the bigger rdx injectors with it to make more power. always though the stock injectors were enough to make peak power.

Very true. Much better looking.
 
I wouldn't trade tq in the 3000-5700 for a pretty RBC. It is pretty though. Perhaps tuning could fix it but don't think so its a hardware problem not a software problem. You only have 2.4 engine with no turbo, so only use what works, toss out everything else. its also more dough.:guitar:
 
@bauer311 It is a coupe :). I've seen people put the sedan front on the coupes, but it looked sorta funny to me. I'm halfway convinced to track down the HFP pieces, but I'm concerned about the back bumper piece.

Looked up some engines-- hot dog they are cheap. I could have lots of fun with mods on one of these K24s. Guess I should go whole hog, eh?

...Whats a good turbo brand?
 
I got a good deal on the PRL stage 2 Kit with the Precision Ball bearing turbo. Both Full-Race and PRL make phenomenal kits but the PRL kit is a full bolt on with no modification to the body or subframe. With the Full-Race you have to trim a bit of the bumper and subframe for the Piping nothing major.
 
The PRL will be the way to go then. I have some slight modification already done to my back bumper for the Tsudo, but nothing crazy. Coincidentally, my dad has a '12 Accord so I can kinda see what changes I can expect. He always joked that the 2.4L Accord engines were probably the same as the Civic Si 2.4L engine, but I never really pursued confirming this. The only remaining question for my Turbo bros/bronecias-- even though it might be sorta specific is: What are you guys doing about the transmissions in your cars? That kit gives some pretty high-output projections. Is it safe to run the matching K24 trans, or is there some sort of treatment that it needs to undergo?
 
What are you guys doing about the transmissions in your cars? That kit gives some pretty high-output projections. Is it safe to run the matching K24 trans, or is there some sort of treatment that it needs to undergo?

Anything above 350whp and you run the risk of shattering 3rd gear.
 
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