2012 Civic Coupe EX Build

Does anyone know why my car would still pull to the right? I don't know what else to look for.
 
Was the wheel level during alignment? If it's just slight it could be the natural slant of the pavement. Probably not a huge concern unless you feel it needs to be corrected.

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The car has always veered off to the right before when the alignment was off and now that it is all aligned it still pulls to the right. I checked my tire pressure and their all at 35 PSI.
 
Verzerrung said:
The car has always veered off to the right before when the alignment was off and now that it is all aligned it still pulls to the right. I checked my tire pressure and their all at 35 PSI.
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That may be, but if you have a bad tire it might have radial pull
 
And from looking at your alignment sheet, the difference in front caster might cause pull, but I think those numbers are close enough to not.
 
I have brand new tires so it shouldn't be that... Not sure what other factors there are. But I really want to get rid of that pull.
 
Not trying to come off as rude or anything but even with brand new tires they can still pull, one way to know for sure if its the tires are causing a pull is to cross rotate the front two tires and see if it pulls the other way. If If it does then you know it's a tire pull and if it's still pulling right its more than likely a alignment/suspension issue.
 
stevenlyyy said:
Not trying to come off as rude or anything but even with brand new tires they can still pull, one way to know for sure if its the tires are causing a pull is to cross rotate the front two tires and see if it pulls the other way. If If it does then you know it's a tire pull and if it's still pulling right its more than likely a alignment/suspension issue.
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I'll go ahead and try this out and see what the result is. Hopefully it fixes it. Thanks for the advice! :thumb:
 
I haven't looked too much into wheels at the moment. I'm running stock tire size and I want to look into finding the right rim size for a nice stretch on my tires. I also want to get the adapters. Once I figure all that out I'll look into rims. Only thing I have really looked at briefly was Enkei RPF 1's.
 
So since you have asked me this I have done a lot of looking into videos, threads, etc, I have a basic understanding and trying to learn to grasp everything, but it will take time. I recently bought brand new tires, 205/55/R16 and still have the 6.5 inch stock rims. I have a rough idea of what I am after... I'm thinking of sticking with the same tires (budget) and upgrading the rim size to 17 x 9. I believe this would give me a nice stretch that I am looking for and hoping that going with 17's would be fine. I'm still in question if I want a positive offset or a negative. Still a bit confused, but I have the general idea of it.

If that won't work, I do like the look of the 9.0-205-40-R17 or the 10-205-50-R17
 
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9" is 229 millimeters wide. You really need a 225/45-17 tire, or a 215/45-17 or even 235/45-17 tire to keep your speedometer in check. A 205 tire is essentially 1" narrower than a 9" rim. Running stretched tires isn't exactly safe, but plenty of people do it anyway. This thread may help you some.

http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/wheel-fitment-charts.7620/
 
EDIT: I was looking through set ups and found this for 9.5-215/45/R17 I like the look of it and how it sits. You mentioned the speedometer. How would this affect handling?

9.5-215-45-R17-Bridgestone-Potenza-Work-XD9-2.jpg

Potentially with something similar to these:
ES2_18X9.5_SILVERMF-WM-2-500x500.jpg
 
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Lower the number (width) more stretch there will be right? So with the set up I mentioned above would it work? I have been looking at the sizes you have mentioned from 205/215/225 and 235.
 
That red car above is on a 9.5" wide wheel and a very low offset based on how far he's sticking out of the fenders. If I had to guess maybe a 9.5" +10 or +15 offset. He's most likely rolled/cut and pulled his fenders to try and minimize the amount of tire rubbing. Probably not unlikely that the fender liners are also cut out on it. Tire stretch is not good for handling. If you like to take corners, or drive "aggressive" at all, do not drive with stretched tires. You end up putting load onto the sidewall of the tires when they're stretched and it's very easy for them to blow. It can do the same driving straight too.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drec7HC_fRU


Tires are measured in width first. 205 tire is 205mm wide. A 215 tire is 215mm wide. The 2nd number in a tire like "45" is the ratio of the height of the tire's sidewall to its width (tread). If you get a tire that is too tall (ratio of the 2nd number), your speedometer will not be correct. Your speedometer measures how many times the wheel is rotating. If you get a tire taller or shorter than stock, it won't rotate the same number of times in the course of say 1 mile. So your speedometer could say you're doing 50mph when you're really doing 60mph or whatever it may be.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

something like this lets you enter two tire values and then shows you how far off your speedometer will be at various speeds, etc. Put your oem stock tire size in the one field.
 
I compared the sizes on the site you linked and see now what you mean by the revolutions and how the size affects it. Seems like this would not be a good fit as I use it as a daily. What is a safe and advisable set up if you're going for the appeal of stance/aggression. I would like something to contribute to that look without having too much risk; such as the video you provided. I looked through the thread you linked and looked at other members set up as well as searching Youtube of other peoples set up.
 
If it's your daily and you want to go to a 17" wheel, then use a wheel no wider than 8" with around a +40mm offset, and 215/45R17 tires.
A dumpy ride and lousy handling gets old real quick.
 
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