2012 Civic Coupe EX Build

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

214/45/17 has a smaller overall diameter than a 205/55/16 tire. 17x8 with a 215/45/17 wont be stretched and will ride pretty nice. I run a 17x8.5 with a 215/45/17 which is a little stretched but rides well with new tires and isn't so streched that I had to do anything to air it up.
 

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Verzerrung said:
Would it be safe to run 9-215/45/R17 as a daily driver? Thanks for the photo.
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Depends on how the roads are where you live. That's not like crazy stretched but would be more likely to unseat on impact with potholes.
 
Personally, I wouldn't go wider than 8" wide on a 215-section-width tire if the car's a daily driver.
 
When I had 8’s I had very very very little rubbing without any figment work done.

Super super hard turns they would rub a bit though.
 
I've been thinking about this quite a bit and I don't really want to dump tons of money into this car if I'm not entirely happy with it. I always told myself it's alright, but I really wanted a Sedan Si from the start. It is more engaging and overall more convenient. I am just Financing the car and I know it is not practical to spend money if you don't own it, but hey I'm not struggling, it's my ride and I have no intentions on letting it goes unless I choose/if I can help it. I have had it since 76,000 miles on October 1st of 2016 so I am coming up on 2 years and 115,000 miles. I have had the same interest rate of 21.74% since so I may as well see if I can get an Si and a better APR that I'd be happier with. Thoughts? I don't see why I shouldn't give this a shot. Sure it's more money by adding whatever is left to the back half, but ultimately seems worth it.
 
Don't trade if you're upside down on it. Come up with enough money to cover what the difference would be and then some more for a down payment. Holy hell that's some high interest, I would imagine with 2 years and not missing payments you should be able to get a better rate.
 
I’ve heard of 10-15% before with people who had no credit, but never 20+. If you have a track record of paying your car payment on time, go to a bank or credit union ASAP and ask for a refinance rate.

A 5yr loan on 20k would have 13k in interest. So a 20k car becomes a 33k total payment. Even if you got it reduced to 15% (which is still really high), you’d be paying like $8700 in interest for the same loan terms. That’s a huge savings.
 
Yea we got out of that pretty quickly. Paying 35k for a 20k car is no bueno.
 
Agreed, best financial advice for the OP is to work on a refinance and paying down the car. Don't mod it and don't spend money on a more expensive car.

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I got the car in 2016 of October from a dealership outside of the Army base where I was stationed in Fort Campbell, Kentucky. I have only been late once, all other payments have been on time. I just tried refinancing today through Navy Federal and I got denied. This was my first time trying to refinance after the 6th month mark of having the car. I don’t know how else to get it refinanced to lower the APR. I got the car for $10,700 and currently still owe $9,500. Nearly two years later nothing has really gone to the principal. While I am paying it down, that interest isn’t helping.

Only thing I’ve modded was really just the height with springs and LED lighting inside, but yeah getting the car paid is my focus.

EDIT: 66 Months term and $282.00 monthly.
 
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Verzerrung said:
and I got denied
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Do a search for a “credit union” and see how far one is from your location. I’ve found they will commonly be .25% lower than traditional banks sometimes, but it isn’t always the case. If nothing is close to you, do a search for a standard bank. You need to make some calls.
 
Navy Federal was a credit union. I’m close to a Arrowhead Credit Union, but I’m blocked from registering with all credit unions due to some block a representative forgot to remove when I closed out my account at a small credit union institution on the army base.

Even if I was able too, don’t you typically need to wait before refinancing or at least establish history with such establishments?

Any other places I should try? Open to ideas to try and get this down somehow.
 
Blocked from registering? I don’t know what the even means. You just call the credit union/bank and say you’re interested in refinancing your auto loan. They should transfer you to someone who deals with loans, and they may be able to approve/deny it over the phone by pulling your credit. Or, drive to the location in person and say the same thing. A person will pull your credit and tell you the rate they can give you.
 
I called a few places, they said I still owe to much and that I have poor credit. Doesn’t seem like I can get out of this even with being on time for nearly the past two years.

I’m blocked by Check Systems... don’t know much more about it then that.
 
You must be a "member" of the credit union to is any of their products. Sounds like there are some underlying financial issues. Banks and credit unions can deny a user from opening accounts. Maybe they overdrafted and never paid the debit balance back or had fees causing a negative balance that were not paid.

Maybe try a traditional bank or online lender like capital one.
webby said:
Blocked from registering? I don’t know what the even means. You just call the credit union/bank and say you’re interested in refinancing your auto loan. They should transfer you to someone who deals with loans, and they may be able to approve/deny it over the phone by pulling your credit. Or, drive to the location in person and say the same thing. A person will pull your credit and tell you the rate they can give you.
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I think I owed $10 from and automatic subscription at the time of closing the account I wasn’t aware of. However I paid it later on, but they never removed me and I called them have them remove it, but they say nothing is shown going against me or pending on my account... so I don’t know what’s up with that.
 
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