2012+ Civic Downpipe List With Product Info & Links

Hello,

Can someone please help answer my question here. I have read many threads and it seems like no one answered my question so I will go ahead a ask here.

I have a Skunk2 catback exhaust on my 2012 Honda Civic SI Coupe. I hate how loud the exhaust is since I took the silencer off so I ordered a ultra quiet resonator that should be here by next week so I can quiet the loud exhaust because its giving me a headache driving around town. I want to purchase a downpipe now to go along with the catback exhaust. I know that it will be even louder with the downpipe but I hope the resonator will take care of that and lower the noise and rattling that comes along with the Skunk2 exhaust.

Question 1: Since I have a Skunk2 full exhaust already, should I just go with a skunk2 downpipe or should I get the Full Race downpipe that everyone is talking about? Would it be more beneficial to have the same brand downpipe and exhaust because they compliment each other best? Or should I just purchase the Full Race downpipe because it seems to have the best reviews?

Question 2: Also, will I have to replace my rear motor mound if I purchase the Skunk2 DP or the Full Race DP?
 
You can mix and match DP and exhaust brands and there should be any noticeable difference unless you go with a smaller DP (ie 3" full race, S2, ultimate race, ect vs 2.75" Buddy Club). Also with a tune, you will get 3-5 more HP from a cat less DP compared to a catted one but the cat less will be raspy and louder in addition to a little extra power.

You don't need to replace the RMM but a stiffer mount will reduce engine movement and and possible contact the DP has with the chasis. It is recommended to replace the RMM at the very least
 
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xXCiviXx said:
You can mix and match DP and exhaust brands and there should be any noticeable difference unless you go with a smaller DP (ie 3" full race, S2, ultimate race, ect vs 2.75" Buddy Club). Also with a tune, you will get 3-5 more HP from a cat less DP compared to a catted one but the cat less will be raspy and louder in addition to a little extra power.

You don't need to replace the RMM but a stiffer mount will reduce engine movement and and possible contact the DP has with the chasis. It is recommended to replace the RMM at the very least
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Thank you, I will be putting a ultra quite resonator which should take care of the raspy noise and rattling in the cabin. It should be here any day now. I figured i should replace the rear motor mound anyways to be safe so I ordered the hasport 62A RMM. If you install it right, there should be no engine clicking and knocking because I have read posts were people had terrible results after installing aftermarket RMM. I think this is because they didnt put it on right. The engine needs to be moved and the brackets properly aligned in order to have a smooth ride after installation. Also, the RMM requires that you drive it for a couple of months before it breaks in and will be smoother all around. I heard of people having rattling in first gear on start up, once the A/C turns on, when reversing, and when idling. But all of this would be taken care of if the motor mound itself is aligned properly and you install in while in NEUTRAL instead of leaving the car in gear. Just my 2 cents from what I read. So I will go ahead and order the full-race catless downpipe. I will let you guys knows how it all sounds after the resonator and everything else is installed.
 
Hi new to the forum world i have a 2015 si sedan was planning on buying a few parts for my car and i have been doing a lot of research but i still prefer to ask this question the parts i plan on getting are a cold air intake, a catless dp, some mounts, and maybe exhaust (ividia q300) but probably keep it stock cause of the catless dp dont want to much noise my question is what brands should i get for best power? The set up i have planed is skunk2 cold air intake and a rv6 dp or should i get a 3" dp like skunk2 or full race

I have hondata fp already since i kept reading if u plan on doing any bolt ons get flashpro first even if u dont get bolt ons base map sucks get flashpro lol
 
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TonyNica2015si said:
Hi new to the forum world i have a 2015 si sedan was planning on buying a few parts for my car and i have been doing a lot of research but i still prefer to ask this question the parts i plan on getting are a cold air intake, a catless dp, some mounts, and maybe exhaust (ividia q300) but probably keep it stock cause of the catless dp dont want to much noise my question is what brands should i get for best power? The set up i have planed is skunk2 cold air intake and a rv6 dp or should i get a 3" dp like skunk2 or full race

I have hondata fp already since i kept reading if u plan on doing any bolt ons get flashpro first even if u dont get bolt ons base map sucks get flashpro lol
Click to expand...

Get a prl intake. Others have not shown to provide gains after tuning. If you are keeping the stock exhaust, there won't really be a benefit to getting a 3" downpipe. You could get the rv6.
 
webby said:
Get a prl intake. Others have not shown to provide gains after tuning. If you are keeping the stock exhaust, there won't really be a benefit to getting a 3" downpipe. You could get the rv6.
Click to expand...


The hell with it. I guess im going 3 inch catless dp and full exhaust.
 
Is prl catless good or should i just stick to full race catless

Want to know cause some kid near me is selling a prl for 250 but if they are crappy or dont give any gains then I'll just spend the extra $100+ on full race
 
TonyNica2015si said:
Is prl catless good or should i just stick to full race catless

Want to know cause some kid near me is selling a prl for 250 but if they are crappy or dont give any gains then I'll just spend the extra $100+ on full race
Click to expand...
You mean plm downpipe? Prl doesn't list a downpipe except the ktuned one on their site.
 
I've seen a number of complaints on fitment. A lot have said you need a hasport rear motor mount with it because it was hitting the steering rack during any acceleration. A number of people have claimed a rear motor mount is really needed to help movement. Rv6 is a smaller diameter and they claim a motor mount is not needed and there is supposedly 1" of clearance on theirs. Others have still said a rear motor mount is a large help on flex/twist, because there isn't much room for clearance.
 
So as long as i get the rear motor mount (already on its way) i should be good. No difference between plm and full race on gains right?


Sorry to bother so much and thanks alot for the info i feel since the 10th gen civics came out people have already tried all methods to increase hp/tq on 9th gen si and i want the best affordable set-up to get the most gains
 
1 more question lol is the rbc manifold worth it since i plan on getting prl cai they have different kits and if the rbc is worth it then ill get the prl cai kit for the rbc and save up for rbc to install them together
 
Long post, but read this entirely so you know what to expect with the rbc results.
http://blog.vittuned.com/2012-honda-civic-si-rbc-intake-manifold-comparison/

I haven't seen anyone here who's had the plm let alone dyno test it. A 3" downpipe should be basically the same with other 3" downpipes. There isn't much to it, since it's just like a short straight pipe with a flex section and a bell housing. The main difference would prob be the actual metal it's made out of as far as "quality" goes. I haven't compared them to see their manufacturing metals.
 
I was originally gonna get the RV6 Catted but been reading about rattle issues, was a solution found? I heard people used washers or something to make the DP lower..


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