Yea, I use to race my scion tc all the time but if I do go FI I'll supercharge my honda civic 9th gen. Hondas are not to badThe TC starts with 180hp stock, your R18 is 140 at the crank. You'll most likely need to go FI to keep up with an Si. If you do a lot of weight reduction you will have a chance though. The R18 weights quite a bit less than the Si.
unfortunate it's auto. But that's y I'm going to put the BPU n a hondata flashThe R18 is a great economy engine but it will fight you for power all the way. The throttle body is small and one of the biggest restrictions is the intake manifold. However, I have not seen any 2012+ R18 manifolds being offered. You could get one custom made, for a price. Also, the single cam is ground for economy and there are literally 0 cams available. The exhaust manifold is cast into the block as well so there is only the single port, which you've addressed the bottle neck there as best you can with the "header."
Is your car auto or manual?
Yea, I'm looking into lowering springs. Maybe eibach pro street??With the AT most likely you will top out around 200hp even with a turbo/SC kit. The problem is that while Jackson Racing has a "track pack" that can add quite a bit of power, the AT sticks out a lot further than the 5 speed transmission. It blocks most of the room that they need to run intercooler piping which limits the amount of power you can make. The AT can hold pretty well and won't die on you but the space available will be the roadblock for you. I would highly suggest looking into an automatic transmission cooler to run inline with your stock cooling system. The temperature of the fluid is what will kill your system more than anything.
Full boltons with flash pro and a tune you might hit 150hp at the wheels. The car will feel considerably quicker though. Definitely look into engine mounts and suspension mods to help you get that power down. The R18 cars are build for comfort and there is a lot of slop in the stock mounts and bushings to make the car quiet and comfortable.
@Darkout like wise and @Nix thanks for the advice .. I just slapped in the header on Friday . A lot smoother fer sure
For the SI it's just the down pipe and to let you know it bolts up after the cat so if you want to keep the cat you will need the DP that comes with one or if not it will say Cat less. And there is about a 100$ deference between the not cat a the ones that come with the High flow cat.Will the downpipe bolt right on to the end of the exhaust runners and connect right down to the start of my cat-back exhaust? Or do i need the header portion AND a DP?
Note that I didn't bold that. Squiggy had that info in his postThere is a metal gasket between the downpipe and block. It may stay stuck to the block or the downpipe. You will need to reuse the gasket!!!