DIY 2013 LX Sedan Amp/Sub Install - High Level Inputs from Rear Speakers

Discussion in 'Audio DIY' started by S. Kusen, Aug 31, 2013.

  1. S. Kusen

    S. Kusen Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4
    I just wanted to add a little fullness to the sound of the base system, so I set out to get this installed and do it myself.

    I found a bunch of different posts about running the cabling, but didn't find anything on the whole that covered how to tap into the wires for the speakers, and get the cables ran, so I took pics of my install, and thought others could benefit from it if they haven't tapped into speakers before for signals.

    I broke the post into two parts to include all of the pics that I took.

    What I purchased:
    Amp with high level inputs -- I'm using an Alpine MRV-M250 250W x 1 Subwoofer Amplifier
    Sub/enclosure combo -- I ordered Rockford Fosgate Prime R1L-1X1 Single R1S410, 150 watts RMS
    Amp wiring kit -- I used EFX Amplifier Wiring Kit 8-gauge w/Patch Cord
    6 feet of speaker wire, 16 gauge
    Wire taps -- Posi-Products Connector Kit 6 pieces Posi-Tap 16-18 Gauge (only need 4 of them, pos/neg for both back speakers)
    Sub grill to protect the sub, not necessary but I got it anyway
    Mini "add a fuse" adapter to tap into the fuse box for the remote wire

    Additional items to have:
    Electrical tape
    Wire stripper (8ga for power and ground cables, 16 ga for speaker wire, 18 ga for the remote wire I had)
    Wire caps or soldering gun to join speaker cable from the posi-taps to the wiring harness on the amp)

    I ran the power cable through the side quarter panel like many others have, and through the rubber plug near the hood release cable. To me, this was the part of the install I wanted to be 100% sure of before I started.

    Step 1 - Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Make sure that stays away from the post -- Zip-tie it or tape it away.

    Step 2 - Locate where to fish the wire, and pull off the plastic cover by the side view mirror on the driver side to see the wire pull
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    Feed the coat hanger up through the opening where the rubber plug was removed, and you'll see it from the opening where the plastic cover is off. Once you see it, you can then feed it on through to under the hood. Be careful not to pull it too far, you still need some of the hanger to stay in the car to be able to feed it through.

    Step 3 - Feed the cable through and lay things out so you have enough cable to reach the battery.

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    Slowly feed the cable through the opening, and lay the cable underneath the trunk release cable so it's not twisted up when you go to feed it under the side panels. Tape the power cable away from the positive post til the end.

    ...Continued in the comments since I couldn't get the rest of the pics posted.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
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  2. S. Kusen

    S. Kusen Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4
    Step 4 -- Join remote wire to the hanger from inside the vehicle and run the power and remote wires to the trunk.
    [​IMG]

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    Fish the wires right along side the main wiring harness. The tricky part that I had here was getting the line fished into the back seat area (2nd pic above) -- don't force it and accidentally puncture anything that's there. I chose not to pull all of the capping off so I didn't have to put it all back after the fact.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once in the back seat, fish the line under the back seat cushion, up to the corner where the back seat folds down in the trunk. This too was a bit tricky to get it fished up, but at the cost of time versus pulling the shoulder rest off, it wasn't that bad.

    Step 5 - Tap into the left and rear speakers (you could get away with just right or left, but it was easy enough to use both since they are right there in the trunk)
    Right Rear

    [​IMG]
    Left Rear

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    In my car, the wiring was this:
    Right rear pos: Blue
    Right rear neg: Orange
    Left rear pos: Yellow
    Left rear neg: Brown

    Step 6 - Connect the ground cable

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    I used the bolt that is on the metal rail right where the seat folds down. Pull up the fabric and there's a shiny bolt to be used. It was a bit of a hassle to loosen on my car.

    Step 7 - Connect the remote wire to the fuse box.

    [​IMG]

    In the LX, there is no sunroof, but the fuse box is still labeled for that, so I used that one to plug in a mini "add-a-circuit" plug in ($6 from pep boys or $2-3 on ebay). Expose about 3/8" of wire on the remote wire, and then slide into the add-a-circuit end and pinch it off. I also taped it to keep it from moving (I don't have any pics of that). Just make sure you use a fuse opening that only gets power when the car is turned on (headlights or interior lights, for example, always have power, so they aren't ideal).

    Step 8 - Connect the wiring to your amp (ground, remote, power, and speaker level inputs) -- no pics.

    Step 9 - Connect the negative terminal on the battery, and hopefully everything is ready to rock.

    Step 10- Tidy up the cables under the hood, and mount the in-line fuse.

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    I mounted the in-line fuse for the power cable to the little plastic piece shown above (it was hollow underneath). Double check before you mount it to be safe. I also zip-tied the cable to existing cabling in the vehicle to make sure it doesn't move around.


    Finishing steps:
    Put the plastic cover back on by the mirror
    Put the panel back on next to the left foot rest -- little tough to get back over the hood release latch, in my opinion.

    Start up the car, and check out all of your connections, and crank up the music!

    Hope this is helpful for everyone out there thinking about doing this. Obviously, work at your own risk! When in doubt, ask around. If you're really unsure about it, then maybe take it somewhere to pay to get installed, but hopefully it's not that daunting.
     
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  3. cerezo28

    cerezo28 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle Model:
    CIVIC LX
    Body Style:
    sedan
    I'm sorry was this done using oem radio/speakers?
     
  4. S. Kusen

    S. Kusen Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4
    Yes, it was hooked into the back two factory speakers with no mods away from the stock head unit. Hope that helps!
     
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  5. cerezo28

    cerezo28 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Vehicle Model:
    CIVIC LX
    Body Style:
    sedan
    F*%K Yes it helps !!! I've got an amp and sub that's been sitting there and waiting for me to find out how to hook it up without hiring someone to do it... This is going to save me 100$$$ Thanks alot!!!
     
  6. Pauly99to17

    Pauly99to17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,176
    Location:
    Ville de Quebec
    Vehicle Model:
    2012 LX
    Body Style:
    Dyno Blue Pearl Sedan (FB2)
    Thanks for the DIY! I will be using this. I'm curious how the sound out of the rear speakers improved. The front ones are not bad, but the rear ones sound horrible and are certainly not loud enough.
     
  7. webby
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    thank you for the diy - images backed up to the server
     
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  8. bram24681012

    bram24681012 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    22
    What kind of wire did you use to hook into the rear speakers?
     
  9. Miguel P.

    Miguel P. Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    36
    Location:
    San Marco, JAX
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic Si
    Body Style:
    Coupe
    I believe that the sound stays the same for the rear speakers. He just tapped into them to grab the signal to send to the amp that powers his sub.

    Great DIY btw. How does the sub sound?
     
  10. Ssp

    Ssp New Member

    Messages:
    1
    I don't understand what or why your tapping in the rear speakers?????! Where can I hook the rca cables???'
     
  11. webby
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    stock headunit doesn't have rca connections so he tapped the rear speakers
     
  12. Pauly99to17

    Pauly99to17 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,176
    Location:
    Ville de Quebec
    Vehicle Model:
    2012 LX
    Body Style:
    Dyno Blue Pearl Sedan (FB2)
  13. Alexis C

    Alexis C New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Very helpful post.. Many thanks. What is the amperage of the second fuse on the add a circuit you used to tap into the fuse box? I see one is 10A based on the color, but as you tapped #11 which is 20A I'm confused as to why you didn't equip the add-on with two 10A fuses? I am 10 days out from putting in my aftermarket system.. I had originally planned to use the GTO feature on my LC7i to control on-off signaling, but after seeing your post and a couple others, I think I would prefer to link directly into the fuse box.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2016
  14. alka.asyan

    alka.asyan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic lx
    Body Style:
    Sedan
    How do i wire the speaker wire to high level inputs?
     
  15. webby
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    From the 1st post:

    6 feet of speaker wire, 16 gauge
    Wire taps -- Posi-Products Connector Kit 6 pieces Posi-Tap 16-18 Gauge (only need 4 of them, pos/neg for both back speakers)
     
  16. alka.asyan

    alka.asyan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic lx
    Body Style:
    Sedan
    My high level input harness got 5 wires. 2 neg 2 pos and 1 ground wire. So that means i dont need the ground wire on my harness?
     
  17. webby
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    Pauly99to17 likes this.
  18. alka.asyan

    alka.asyan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    60
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    Vehicle Model:
    Civic lx
    Body Style:
    Sedan
    Actually I got it working. I tried my Home surround sub. Its working good. Thank you S. Kusen, @webby, @Pauly99to17
     
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  19. ben blidchenko

    ben blidchenko New Member

    Messages:
    2
    hi i have a 2006 honda civic si coupe and i was wondering what is the plastic peice by the mirror. i need to know what its called or where i can get one. i have my right one missing.
     
  20. webby
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