team3d
Well-Known Member
lol...
Brakes smoking
- Thread starter dath1974
- Start date
team3d
Well-Known Member
here is the close up photo of the lx coupe
team3d
Well-Known Member
haha, you notice...
Last year before the Dragon I got my Axxis Ultimates from Brakeco
Yup. I called them. The guy said AXXIS is in the midst of changing ownership. They currently have no stock available and AXXIS doesn't know when they, if ever, are going to resume production. Thats what I got from the guy at brakeco at least.
team3d
Well-Known Member
from DBA...........
The other side of the coin is unsprung weight or rotating inertia. All performance fanatics talk about reducing unsprung weight. Yes, a rotating disc does have a certain amount of rotating inertia or a flywheel effect which requires power to accelerate and to decelerate. It takes approximately 18 lb-ft of torque to get those 21lbs discs spinning up to 80 mph and back down to zero when braking. The lighter 18.7lbs disc requires approximately 15.1 lb-ft which is a little better than 10% saving in energy required to accelerate, and then decelerate the same vehicle.
By thinking smarter DBA has developed methods to reduce weight without reducing performance by using higher quality disc rotor materials like DBA’s 4000 Series rotors, or by replacing stock one-piece rotors with two piece designs such as DBA’s 5000 Series rotors that reduce weight from the mounting bell while maintaining the optimal weight on the braking band
if you have to use tsx brake set up, it's ideal to at least use rotors that's similar to stock rotor's weight...
especially on R18, stock rotors are about 13lbs each...
project mu si stock replacement rotor weight
stock si rotor weight
stock tsx rotor weight
The other side of the coin is unsprung weight or rotating inertia. All performance fanatics talk about reducing unsprung weight. Yes, a rotating disc does have a certain amount of rotating inertia or a flywheel effect which requires power to accelerate and to decelerate. It takes approximately 18 lb-ft of torque to get those 21lbs discs spinning up to 80 mph and back down to zero when braking. The lighter 18.7lbs disc requires approximately 15.1 lb-ft which is a little better than 10% saving in energy required to accelerate, and then decelerate the same vehicle.
By thinking smarter DBA has developed methods to reduce weight without reducing performance by using higher quality disc rotor materials like DBA’s 4000 Series rotors, or by replacing stock one-piece rotors with two piece designs such as DBA’s 5000 Series rotors that reduce weight from the mounting bell while maintaining the optimal weight on the braking band
if you have to use tsx brake set up, it's ideal to at least use rotors that's similar to stock rotor's weight...
especially on R18, stock rotors are about 13lbs each...
project mu si stock replacement rotor weight
stock si rotor weight
stock tsx rotor weight
- Thread starter
- #108
Back to the original topic;-)
I got my Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads and installed with new Napa premium rotors (they couldn't turn my old ones with their equipment and I needed something quickly, I'll report back on these rotors after I run them a season (or they have issues)...). Changed the brake fluid to Motul RBF600 as well, though I really wish it was a different color as it's a royal pain when the fluid isn't dirty to know when the new fluid is flowing though... So I just took a guess and then went a bit beyond that... Bedded the pads/rotors and I have to say -- WOW. I was hard pressed to notice much fade, but when I was done with the procedure, the front rotors were glowing red (did it after dark, otherwise I likely wouldn't have seen the glow) and I had a small amount of smoke from the pads. Everything is working great, pretty minimal squeal so far and in my opinion (not much time on the clock yet), they're perfectly fine for street use if you don't mind the small amount of squeal and probably some dusting. They grab harder (and predictably) when completely cold than my OEM setup. Time will tell if I run into any caveats, but so far I'm happy. I also left off the anti-squeal backing plates and springs... Pedal is nice and stiff now, noticeably better than before. I did *not* put SS braided lines on... I decided against it for a driver and honestly, I'm perfectly happy with the pedal feel with the stock lines, even under extreme braking. I've got a race this weekend, so I'll update with any experiences from that, but I'm pretty happy... Swill wouldn't mind losing some unsprung weight, but I think the factory brakes will keep up with my car/ability level just fine.
Oh, one last thought... The Carbotech pads (at least the XP's) don't have the brake wear squeakers... No big deal for me, but something to be aware of for folks who put miles on their cars and may not check their pads often/at all... Probably most people running an XP series pad wouldn't fit into that category though.
EDIT: Oh, also, the Carbotech pads don't have have the chamfered edge on the friction material. In other words, the face of the pad is completely flat from factory, so you're getting the largest contact patch possible right away. Probably SOP for race-type pads, but that was new to me and made me think a bit...
-Daniel
I got my Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads and installed with new Napa premium rotors (they couldn't turn my old ones with their equipment and I needed something quickly, I'll report back on these rotors after I run them a season (or they have issues)...). Changed the brake fluid to Motul RBF600 as well, though I really wish it was a different color as it's a royal pain when the fluid isn't dirty to know when the new fluid is flowing though... So I just took a guess and then went a bit beyond that... Bedded the pads/rotors and I have to say -- WOW. I was hard pressed to notice much fade, but when I was done with the procedure, the front rotors were glowing red (did it after dark, otherwise I likely wouldn't have seen the glow) and I had a small amount of smoke from the pads. Everything is working great, pretty minimal squeal so far and in my opinion (not much time on the clock yet), they're perfectly fine for street use if you don't mind the small amount of squeal and probably some dusting. They grab harder (and predictably) when completely cold than my OEM setup. Time will tell if I run into any caveats, but so far I'm happy. I also left off the anti-squeal backing plates and springs... Pedal is nice and stiff now, noticeably better than before. I did *not* put SS braided lines on... I decided against it for a driver and honestly, I'm perfectly happy with the pedal feel with the stock lines, even under extreme braking. I've got a race this weekend, so I'll update with any experiences from that, but I'm pretty happy... Swill wouldn't mind losing some unsprung weight, but I think the factory brakes will keep up with my car/ability level just fine.
Oh, one last thought... The Carbotech pads (at least the XP's) don't have the brake wear squeakers... No big deal for me, but something to be aware of for folks who put miles on their cars and may not check their pads often/at all... Probably most people running an XP series pad wouldn't fit into that category though.
EDIT: Oh, also, the Carbotech pads don't have have the chamfered edge on the friction material. In other words, the face of the pad is completely flat from factory, so you're getting the largest contact patch possible right away. Probably SOP for race-type pads, but that was new to me and made me think a bit...
-Daniel
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team3d
Well-Known Member
so what's the total costs ?
- Thread starter
- #110
Pads were something like 350 for front and rear. I'm very pleased with them so far. They do dust a ton and the car does sound like a dump truck, but I knew these things going in. I'm completely happy with them for dual track/street use so far and would end up buying the same pads even if/when I switch to different calipers. Next season I'll get back out on a full sized track and see how they do there, but they were champs on the Jackson Sports Park track in White City, Oregon last weekend.
team3d
Well-Known Member
so, total is around $500 with new rotors ?
race pads are always dusty & noisy....
race pads are always dusty & noisy....
- Thread starter
- #112
- Thread starter
- #113
Reporting back in on the Carbotech XP10/XP8 front/rear combo... So they dust like hell and my car is as noisy as a dump truck, these things are true... I knew both of those things were a likely outcome going in and I'm completely happy with these pads on the street thus far. I've only had them on a very small track as far as racing goes and they weren't taxed at all for the short number of laps done there, but I have high hopes they'll work out well when more heavily taxed this next season.
So if you're okay with lots of dust and a fair amount of noise (I didn't install the factory backing plates, which likely would help with noise, but I wanted the firmest pedal I could get), then my vote is that the pads are fine for the street. Once warmed up, they to bite pretty hard, but that doesn't bug me at all.
EDIT: Now I just need to find a "because race car" vinyl cling to help explain things to outsiders;-)
So if you're okay with lots of dust and a fair amount of noise (I didn't install the factory backing plates, which likely would help with noise, but I wanted the firmest pedal I could get), then my vote is that the pads are fine for the street. Once warmed up, they to bite pretty hard, but that doesn't bug me at all.
EDIT: Now I just need to find a "because race car" vinyl cling to help explain things to outsiders;-)
- Staff
- #114
- 55,515
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http://www.amazon.com/BECAUSE-Vinyl-Window-Sticker-Graphic/dp/B0088I072C
Tons of variations on Amazon
Tons of variations on Amazon
Tom's Si
Well-Known Member
I recently went from stock to aftermarket wheels. I've got about 28 k miles on the car and I've noticed some squeaking when the brakes are first applied for a stop. Is this adjustment to the new wheels and tires?
@dath1974 -Thanks for the update on the pads!
@Tom's Si : No, wheels and tires shouldn't effect the pad/rotor interface at all. Probably a combo of wear and cold temps recently. You may be starting to wear the stock pads enough to hear the metal replacement minders. Keep an eye/ear on it. If it continues and get louder you might be due for new pads.
@Tom's Si : No, wheels and tires shouldn't effect the pad/rotor interface at all. Probably a combo of wear and cold temps recently. You may be starting to wear the stock pads enough to hear the metal replacement minders. Keep an eye/ear on it. If it continues and get louder you might be due for new pads.
Hella JDM
Well-Known Member
- 95
- 89
I notice after I do a 3rd gear pull during e-tuning, the brakes smell and are very hot. I put Motul RPF 660 the day I drove it home from the dealership, but it is time to get a good street pad/occasional track pad. I used to run Hawk HP and HP+ and remember liking them. What is a good street/track pad that has minimal noise/dust?
In all honesty the stock pads are pretty good for noise/dust levels and hold up pretty well unless you are routinely pushing them or attempting track days.
That said, I've been running a set of the Project Mu B-Force Sports. They are kind of spendy but have been a good pad so far. They should fit your calipers but they don't specifically say so.
That said, I've been running a set of the Project Mu B-Force Sports. They are kind of spendy but have been a good pad so far. They should fit your calipers but they don't specifically say so.
Hella JDM
Well-Known Member
- 95
- 89
Are pads the same for 2012 as they are for the 2014, or is it a different part number?
team3d
Well-Known Member
easiest way to improve your brake system is get rid of your 29lbs wheels....