Changing manual transmission fluid

The filter is definitely capable of taking care of any debris or they wouldn't use it. It'd be crazy for them to recommend things that are going to hurt the engine in the long run. Why put themselves in a situation where they have to do added warranty work? Honda recommends running oil change intervals purely off the maintenance minder. I've run a couple hundred thousand miles following nothing but the maintenance minder without issue. In my driving experience, I'd usually end up running around 7500 miles or so between oil changes following the 15% oil meter suggested drain interval. It calculates cold starts, rpms, idling etc to determine oil useage. So if you have a bunch of long highway miles it'll be different than driving stop and go in the city. Everyone is going to do whatever they feel comfortable with, but I see no issue in following the engineers suggestions. If their suggested drain intervals were negative, it'd hurt them with repairs and even resale value on the used market if they get a bad reputation.
 
I definitely see your point webby, experts know more about the product they made vs any consumer I'm sure. BUT (and i only say this from first hand experience) Landrover and Jag oil intervals are 10-15k. I've seen these motors first hand torn down for leaks to find sludge build up on engines that get regular recommended oil changes with recommended fluid. Saw one moron that went 35k miles on an oil change. When he brought it in and my buddy did the oil change (and then some, it's Landrover after all lol), the filter cartridge broke in half when picked up (top mount style) and over an inch thick of sludge. Also my kia forte recommended 5k OCI but when i checked my oil at 3k (conventional) it was blacker than any oil i've changed on my own cars. At 3k with synthetics looked worse than most 5k intervals (avalon did 5k+ looking gold still on syn). Every motor uses oil different so it's a case by case basis IMO.
Point being is not all manufacture recommendations are the right way to go about things in some of my experiences. Thus my being safer than sorry logic comes into play for under cutting intervals.
 
some people don't follow their oil change intervals which you've seen. That's their own fault. I've seen plenty of sludge engines. Plenty of people on the rsx forums, the 8th gen civic forums, and here have done oil analysis after 5-10k mile drain intervals with blackstone labs. Blackstone even told them to run numerous people to 12k miles on their next synthetic oil change because their oil was still fine.
 
 
Awesome then it's safe to say the general oil usage of these k24's are good if not great. :) I guess it is a Honda after all lol

Hope i don't become annoying for you webby :stickpokesmiley:
 
Not at all. Just trying to provide some info you could make your own decisions from. Ultimately it's whatever makes you comfortable.
 
For your first time on 9th @Darkout you've been busy!

keep in mind that lubricants darken with as little as 2% oxidation. That's nothing. It may not look good... it might even look pitch black, but chances are very high the oil is still doing its job... and thousands of lab reports prove it. Admittedly, I change my oil too often myself... it makes me feel better about VTEC'n the snot out of it. But I have to admit... it's a waste of money.
Do yourself a favor. Change oil when you want... but send in a sample once in a while. You'll be surprised. :vtec:

Oh, and when we talk about Group IV oil around here, we're talkin' PAO's not Mobil 1.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups
 
I'm like you Bruce i like to over change which is bad and a waist but i feel better since like you i will use vtec a lot down the road. Sorry i meant mobile 1(toyota brand) was just accessible but i did understand it was a class III. i would like to run something higher but my knowledge on superior oils and what types each brand offer is minimal at that. That is what I'm curious on and want to learn about. I tend to over maintenance things so i want to get a good base to not go overboard but still be ahead of the game.

As for being busy yea i know but I'm an avid car enthusiast that loves his car and to be a part of the community:cucumber::dance1: :cheerleader:lol I can never know enough and never will but love to learn and pass on what i know
 
Hey stupid question here. Shouldn't the car be level when changing tranny fluid or can the front be jacked up?
 
Darkout said:
I'm like you Bruce i like to over change which is bad and a waist but i feel better since like you i will use vtec a lot down the road. Sorry i meant mobile 1(toyota brand) was just accessible but i did understand it was a class III. i would like to run something higher but my knowledge on superior oils and what types each brand offer is minimal at that. That is what I'm curious on and want to learn about. I tend to over maintenance things so i want to get a good base to not go overboard but still be ahead of the game.

As for being busy yea i know but I'm an avid car enthusiast that loves his car and to be a part of the community:cucumber::dance1: :cheerleader:lol I can never know enough and never will but love to learn and pass on what i know
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9th is unlike any other Board i've found. The ppl here really know their stuff, and they're incredibly helpful in sharing it. You won't find a better group.
 
Hey Everyone,

When I change my engine oil, I lift up the front two tires to drain the oil out. Afterwards I bring the front two tires down so the car is leveled, which at this point I begin adding engine oil.

My question is can I change transmission fluid in the same manner? Also the owner's manual does not state how many quarts of MTF to pour in. The OP mentioned 1.9 qts while I have read at other sites it is 2 qts. Is an extra .1 qt of MTF bad for the transmission?
 
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Hella JDM said:
Has anyone done an analysis on Torco MTF and RTF, or run that 50/50 combo in their trans?
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Currently running the Torco MTF. Will drain and test it this summer before the next Dragon. This is my 3rd or 4th MTF.. and yet, nothing has proven better than Honda's OEM.
 
Glad to hear your trying this Bruce cause I was curious myself as I've heard things about Torco and/or the mix.
 
Darkout said:
Glad to hear your trying this Bruce cause I was curious myself as I've heard things about Torco and/or the mix.
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Torco is a high end brand... lots of extreme pressure additives; should do well given our type of driving. (Who, me?)
Not sure Torco or any of the synthetics will make a difference. So whatever you use, change more often that recommended. That much is clear from the lab results.
 
Hey Bruce,

Would you ever consider giving GM Syncromesh Friction Modified Fluid a try?
 
Nix said:
Hey Bruce,

Would you ever consider giving GM Syncromesh Friction Modified Fluid a try?
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Nope... i missed one. But generally don't go for friction modified anything.
 
Bruce Bartlow said:
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Torco is a high end brand... lots of extreme pressure additives; should do well given our type of driving. (Who, me?)
Not sure Torco or any of the synthetics will make a difference. So whatever you use, change more often that recommended. That much is clear from the lab results.
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5k miles seems too long with the feeling I get from the shifter but I also have a diff whine at 19k which started at 10k so I may have added particles to accelerate wear? Maybe? Really need to suck it up and make an appointment
 
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