Transmission oil analysis results are in! This is from the Honda MTF I switched to after concerns about the AmSoil. So far, it seems as if it was a good idea to abandon the AmSoil.
Hey @Bruce Bartlow!
Hey @Bruce Bartlow!
Changing manual transmission fluid
- Thread starter Bruce Bartlow
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Bill Samolian
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Squiggy, Thanks for running the UOA. To be meaningful, you should now run Amsoil MTF for 8K and see what the metals look like. If not we will never know if the run from 6K to 10.5K was residual break in.
Yeah, I have debated that, but not sure if I want to take the chance. I am already running a new batch of Honda MTF and won't be changing it again until next fall. I will do some research before then and continue to compare results with others and make a decision.
If you are interested, I just posted a second engine oil analysis in my build thread as well.
- Thread starter
- #124
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
- 1,599
- 865
- Vehicle Model
- Rented a C8 for a week (what a monster) ended up buying a TLX. Beautiful car inside and out. Killer stereo. Handles better than it should given its weight. Not my dream car, just a Honda Accord in a tux.
- Body Style
- Sedan with the backseat of a two-seater
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Thanks for sharing this. Bill is right, we'll never know if it was break-in.
Even though i'm an Amsoil dealer there is no way i'd use Amsoil MTF again. You saw what it looked like after 5,000 miles... unrecognizable black grit. My numbers were so bad the fluid was listed as "critical" (according to Oil Analyzers) meaning fluid failure and possibly equipment failure was imminent. And yet, that fluid was supposed to remain in service for another 10,000 miles? No thank you.
- Thread starter
- #126
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
- 1,599
- 865
- Vehicle Model
- Rented a C8 for a week (what a monster) ended up buying a TLX. Beautiful car inside and out. Killer stereo. Handles better than it should given its weight. Not my dream car, just a Honda Accord in a tux.
- Body Style
- Sedan with the backseat of a two-seater
______________
There's no reason to question RP. But just to be safe, have it tested after 7,500 miles in a lab like Blackstone or Oil Analyzers. If you're not inclined to test an after market product, stick with OEM. At least then you've got the Honda warranty.
biker128pedal
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So I have a 2012 LX with a 5 speed manual. I don't believe I have a limited slip. Will Amsoil eat it up. I have 60k miles. The minder is telling me I need to change to 70k miles. I think I'll do it sooner and in the future change more office. I'll get more practice.
I did 5k miles engine oil changes for the first 20k miles then went to 10k changes still before the minder. But my driving is cruising at 60 to 65 on state highway.
I did 5k miles engine oil changes for the first 20k miles then went to 10k changes still before the minder. But my driving is cruising at 60 to 65 on state highway.
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You don't have a limited slip in yours. I'd honestly just stick with the honda mtf.
Bill Samolian
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No Amsoil will not eat it up.
biker128pedal
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The Honda dealers are 90 minutes away. and never open when I am around. I spent the first 50k miles using Honda oil. I can get Amsoil at the NAPA.
I may keep a sample then change the Amsoil at 10k miles for a look or a test.
Thanks I thought so. Now the find the Torque specs for the plugs and get new washers.
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biker128pedal
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Wonderful. Thanks so much.
- Thread starter
- #133
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
- 1,599
- 865
- Vehicle Model
- Rented a C8 for a week (what a monster) ended up buying a TLX. Beautiful car inside and out. Killer stereo. Handles better than it should given its weight. Not my dream car, just a Honda Accord in a tux.
- Body Style
- Sedan with the backseat of a two-seater
Despite being a long term Amsoil user (and dealer) I discontinued the use of Amsoil's synthetic MTF after disasterous lab results came in.... twice. I went back to Honda's OEM. No complaints.... and labs eventually returned to normal.
In the search for better protection (i.e., synthetic) and smoother shifting, I am now trying the Royal Purple MTF shown here:
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...d=1424566065&sr=8-1&keywords=royal+purple+MTF
So far I'm impressed with the shift quality. Very impressed. First, the notchiness is gone, suggesting less metal-to-metal contact. But what I really want to know is how it protects. So after 10,000-15,000 miles and a series of torture tests I'll send in a lab sample or two.
In the search for better protection (i.e., synthetic) and smoother shifting, I am now trying the Royal Purple MTF shown here:
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-...d=1424566065&sr=8-1&keywords=royal+purple+MTF
So far I'm impressed with the shift quality. Very impressed. First, the notchiness is gone, suggesting less metal-to-metal contact. But what I really want to know is how it protects. So after 10,000-15,000 miles and a series of torture tests I'll send in a lab sample or two.
I am curious to see the results after having a bad lab using AmSoil and being forced to switch back to OEM.
Ryan34
Well-Known Member
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Hey guys, first post and new to the Honda world. Was just checking out possibly using amsoil for MTF and found on their website that despite their syncromesh fluid being recommended for an Si, if you scroll to the applications portion of the description it says not for use in limited slip applications. I included the link. That seems to be what the consensus of this thread is anyway but I figured I'd at least point it out to anyone who may not have seen it.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...omesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...omesh-transmission-fluid-5w-30/?code=MTFQT-EA
If using Honda MTF (as i will be during my warranty period) what is the ideal intervals for changing in an SI? I believe in over changing vs using it till the last possible moment for peace of mind and longevity on components. Car is still brand new with 300 mi's on it but an oil change is due at 500 for myself and probably a 5k for the MTF if not at 1k. I don't like leaving break in fluids running for very long. The car will be driven on a more spirited side than not plus i'm in Florida so it's a "severe" climate once its broken in passed 1k mi.
Engine oil will be a class iv with 5k intervals. Not sure what brand as this thread has shinned light onto what i should be looking out for.
Engine oil will be a class iv with 5k intervals. Not sure what brand as this thread has shinned light onto what i should be looking out for.
- Thread starter
- #137
Bruce Bartlow
Late apex everything
- 1,599
- 865
- Vehicle Model
- Rented a C8 for a week (what a monster) ended up buying a TLX. Beautiful car inside and out. Killer stereo. Handles better than it should given its weight. Not my dream car, just a Honda Accord in a tux.
- Body Style
- Sedan with the backseat of a two-seater
_____________
Hey Dark... welcome! What class iv will you be using?
Hey thanks! I'm not really sure exactly as oil quality knowledge is not my forte. As far as my history with oil has been Valvoline conventional as that was what my dad had always used growing up and our cars never had problems. Recently since i work at a shop i get the synthetic's they offer on the cheap. Motorcraft syn for awhile and now i have access to toyota 0w20 syn (which i think is just mobile 1) from the pump reel for free.
Are any of those worth it for the SI? Not sure but my Toyota Avalon on motorcrat syn went 5k without changing colors so i assume its decent oil. (Owned the toyota when i worked for lincoln and now own a honda as i work for toyota lol) Free oil for me is tempting but id rather spend a few bucks on quality i know is worth it. Pennzoil does seem like reasonable priced quality from what I've read here and elsewhere. Any suggestions I'm all ears.
I know some might say I'm cutting intervals short BUT that is what i plan to do. Once out of warranty i plan on boosting this baby (within reason for the stock block) so the best shape i can keep the engine in the meantime (and tranny for that matter) the better off i'll be when i wanna go big.
Are any of those worth it for the SI? Not sure but my Toyota Avalon on motorcrat syn went 5k without changing colors so i assume its decent oil. (Owned the toyota when i worked for lincoln and now own a honda as i work for toyota lol) Free oil for me is tempting but id rather spend a few bucks on quality i know is worth it. Pennzoil does seem like reasonable priced quality from what I've read here and elsewhere. Any suggestions I'm all ears.
I know some might say I'm cutting intervals short BUT that is what i plan to do. Once out of warranty i plan on boosting this baby (within reason for the stock block) so the best shape i can keep the engine in the meantime (and tranny for that matter) the better off i'll be when i wanna go big.
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doing an oil change at 500 miles? Do what you'd like, but the engine has a good amount of moly in it which helps with break in. Draining it early would be counterproductive in my opinion
If that's what Honda does then maybe i wont. Just something I've done on any engine break in. But of course these are all lower scale engines (nitro rc cars, lawn equipment and such). I'm assuming the extra change early will wash away the lube quicker thus break in wont be proper? Reason being is i don't want particles that develop in the break in process to circulate constantly and cause added wear if i can help it. Maybe just a filter change would be better?
I'm here to learn from you guys that know Honda but my crazy ideas have some logic sometimes...in my head at least lol
I'm here to learn from you guys that know Honda but my crazy ideas have some logic sometimes...in my head at least lol