Dar-Dar's 1995 Avus Blue E36 M3 Project Car

Dar-dar with the upgrades! Looking good man. Can't wait to see those wheels on it though.

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Yeah. Same here. The wheels came with winter tires and tpms that I can sell.

I haven't even owned this car for a year and I've been putting so much on it. Haha.
Everything looks so good Dar-Dar. Keep it going!
Thanks man.

I also picked these up today after picking up the bbs wheels. They are 235/45/17 Pilot Super Sports with 6/32 thread left. I paid $50 for both! One minor problem is that one tire has a small bubble. I'll be running them on the front.
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The rears will have 255/40/17. I'm still debating if I should mount my 255/40/17 Kumho Ku36 that I intended in selling.

I put the car back on stock spring due to the reason that the tires that will be mounted are wide and will rub with the H&R race springs.
 
My friend with a 2014 Audi S4 purchased a new oil cooler for his car. And so I asked him to not scrap it and give it to me. I'll try to fix it and mount it on this car. Interestingly, the Euro E36 M3 had them stock. U.S. E36 M3s got it bad and are poop compared to the Euro ones. :sadbanana:
 
Disregard, the S4 oil cooler isn't what I thought it'd be. I thought it would be similar to the Q7 oil cooler.
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Is that still a stacked plate unit? Whats the I/O ports look like?
Yeah.
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The S4 doesnt have the same setup, unfortunately.
 
Its a Derale 51008 with -8AN fittings. Plenty large for oil I believe. It's pretty compact and it cools well at 50+ mph. At lower speeds it's like it's not even there. I've had no cold weather issues with it but if you're using it for oil you should definitely get one of those thermostatic valves for it.
 
Nice, I'll definitely let you know.
 
No need for an oil cooler on that car unless tracked (raced) heavily. It just adds more points of potential failure.
I am planning on tracking it, but not heavily. That's why you're here, to give me advises. :D
 
When I mean heavily, I mean 90 minute plus endurance races. For track days (not a beginner and I dont use one), they aren't necessary unless you live in death valley.
 
Update: Rust = Yum

From removing the front fenders (which were rusted underneath and covered by the side skirts), I noticed significant rust located right behind the front tires. I really hate rust.

I started by cutting the rusty metal with a grinder and a Dremel.
IMG_20170306_161807738.jpg
Look what's exposed. :Omg:IMG_20170314_123354150.jpg
I cut and shaped an 18 gauge cold rolled sheet metal to be stitch welded onto the chassis. I borrowed my older brother's Flux Core Welder.
IMG_20170321_124113939.jpg
All the minor rust surfaces that did not rot were coated with POR15 and the welded seams were sealed using a Seam Sealer. The hidden bare metal was sprayed with Rustoleum Self Etch Primer. I also plugged all the jack holes with rubber plugs and seam sealer. I will no longer use those jack holes since they collect so much water.
IMG_20170321_184744049.jpg
I will finish everything off by coating the treated areas, as well as the rocker panel underneath the side skirts, with the Duplicolor bed liner coating that I used for the wheel wells.
 
When I mean heavily, I mean 90 minute plus endurance races. For track days (not a beginner and I dont use one), they aren't necessary unless you live in death valley.
Thanks for the input, Robert.

I will have a couple performance parts lined up soon (by summer or fall).

-Short Shifter (the one you told me about a while back on the fb messager)
-Radiator duct (I'll be fabricating my own)
-Exhaust (I'll probably get this really soon. Possibly within this week). I have two exhausts in mind, Borla or UUC? I'll buy these second hand.
 
is that aftermarket wiring, or that's how the oem was run from the factory?
 
is that aftermarket wiring, or that's how the oem was run from the factory?
Im assuming factory. But I have no history of the car, so I'm not 100% sure. :giggle:
 
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