Dar-Dar's 1995 Avus Blue E36 M3 Project Car

I'm picking up a rear subframe with polyurethane bushings today. :woot:
 
Right? I have a Harbor Freight one that's either 500F or 1000F.
 
X Brace

I got a deal on this oem x-brace that was available on certain E36s/Z3s. The 1995s did not come with one.
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I cleaned it up a bit with degreaser.
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There's a diy on installing this and one step requires drilling larger holes on the front cross member/subframe so rivet nuts can be inserted. However, the rivet nuts I purchased slipped right through the holes without any drilling. :woot:
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I'm going to try and mount the stock cross member (just a simple bar) somewhere closer to the rear end.
 
Man that thing looks janky. I'm surprised you didn't strip and paint it. It has some rust on it!

Nice progress on the car overall too. Major work you are doing.
 
Man that thing looks janky. I'm surprised you didn't strip and paint it. It has some rust on it!

Nice progress on the car overall too. Major work you are doing.
Thanks.

The x-brace only has some minor surface rust. Mainly, on the seam welds and areas that ate the speed bumps. It came from Georgia.

Don't worry, I'll remove it and do some paint work. The car will remain suspended anyway until I install the rear sub frame, trailing arm bushings, etc. Basically, the entire rear end.

I really want to have fun driving it before summer comes around. I know I'll have fun driving it as it stands, but the trailing arm bushings are completely shot (poop handling and wonky alignment) and need to be replaced so I figured I'll do as much as I can on the rear end while I'm at it.

That's pretty cool. I guess.

For $100, it's basically free. The bushings alone go for over $100. Lol. I can't wait to install it. Fingers crossed for no cracked mounting points in the rear. These cars (the older they get) apparently have the tendency to crack on the trailing arm pocket, rear strut mount, sub frame mounting points. I'll be ready to do some welding.

Once the rear end is dropped (after welding or if welding isn't necessary), I'll do some rust repair and spray the entire area with more truck bed coating.
 
Heat guns go for over 500F and will burn the paint. I doubt the temperatre in an enclosed box will go over 200F using a blow dryer. Here's a pic from years ago:
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It's so simple and it works.
The next time i paint something I'm doing this. Hope my gf doesnt mind if i steal her hair dryer. I knew i kept a bunch of boxes around for a good reason
 
The next time i paint something I'm doing this. Hope my gf doesnt mind if i steal her hair dryer. I knew i kept a bunch of boxes around for a good reason
Be sure you have exit vents so the blow dryer won't overheat.
 
Yeah. I don't know if I want to get it yet though. It popped up so soon.
 
They want that much and it looks like a partly polished turd? Damn!
 
It seems that the stromung exhaust is 'special order' only. So they are quite hard to get. I'm going to low ball this seller though. If I can get a deal between $400-$450, I'll be happy.
 
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Front Downforce, Not Really

I installed a fiberglass front splitter that is similar in style as the M3 Lightweight. However, it isn't as functional since the ones you see in the Lightweights are mounted on the bumper support and will actually put some front down force. And this splitter is mounted on the lip of the bumper cover using twelve fender clips on the front and four nuts and bolts on the sides.

This and the stock lip were painted with Rustoleum Trim Paint (and Duplicolor adhesion promoter prior to painting).
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Don't mind the battered up front emblem. :D
 
More like a chin on a lip. It looks much better in person.
 
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