Disappointed with aftermarket options for 2015 si for track. What to do?

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NoTorque

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Ok so I am fairly satisfied with my braking and power setups, but I have nothing for suspension/handling and it is really holding me back at the track, obviously.

I have a 2015 si sedan.

I had/have some falken azenis tires which I thought were high performance but they get greasy after a few laps.

So I'm already going with light wheels and better tires since the falkens are a disappointment (thinking nitto nt01 or hankook rs3).

Btw I also have a hasport mount which I have not installed yet.

The issue I was having was where to go from here.

This is a daily driven car so adjustability is appealing.

I asked progress and they said their rear sway doesn't fit 2015s. Which I find hard to believe.

Then looking at coil overs, it looks like the only decent track option is buddy club race spec, but again I'm afraid it would rub on the 18s with the 2015 (not sure it could handle more than a 1" drop) and the spring rates are equal all around which as far as my limited knowledge goes is that is not ideal for a track setup. Also people tell me buddy club is ebay quality but overpriced. Others require cutting the strut mount?

What other options do I have? Chassis stiffening? Is that even a good idea for a daily driven car, especially the welding options (not a welder btw)?

Thanks im just feeling unsure and have searched and searched forums but track goes and specifically the 2015ers are rare so I can't find help with rubbing the 18s or the swaybar issue
 
@Safe Gabe tracks his car a bit. I know its not a 2015 but he might be of some use.

I would say to definitely look into some front camber bolts and run more than -1 upfront. Something like -1.5 F and -1 R will help a lot with the handling. Since they've changed the suspension every year its hard for aftermarket companies to keep up with so many small changes and an already small customer base.

I would contact redshift motorsports and see about having a custom setup made. You could get a Koni/spring setup or a ground control coil over setup. The rears might still just bolt in but the fronts would require fabrication work that those guys can do for you. That way you get a bolt in ready setup out of the box. Its more expensive but might be the only option at the moment.

I don't know about the rear sway. The 2014 and 2015 have the same part number but its a different revision number from the 2012/2013 so Id hate to say it would fit but then doesn't. The larger rear sway definitely makes a ton of difference on these cars.
 
Yeah I contacted technical support at progress for the sway and they quickly told me it would NOT fit my car. Was a bit surprised.

Ok so red shift would be able to come up with something possibly? I saw they mentioned with their coilovers that I would have to cut the mounting area which i wasn't really comfortable with but maybe they would have a build your own coilovers setup.

And my most feared thing is that I will rub with the camber and new coils.
 
A guy at the Dragon meet was running the BC race spec coils with an 18x8 wheel and pilot super sport tires in a 235/48/18 size. He had to roll the fenders to fit without rubbing but I didn't ask what camber specs he was running.

I can see about getting the part number I used for the Progress rear sway. Mine fits with no issues on my 15 sedan.

The camber specs @Nix mentioned above are good but for a track setup you could add more negative camber. Guess it depends if you want to keep switching the camber specs from track to street or run something between the two at all times.
 
NoTorque said:
Ok so I am fairly satisfied with my braking and power setups, but I have nothing for suspension/handling and it is really holding me back at the track, obviously.

I have a 2015 si sedan.

I had/have some falken azenis tires which I thought were high performance but they get greasy after a few laps.

So I'm already going with light wheels and better tires since the falkens are a disappointment (thinking nitto nt01 or hankook rs3).

Btw I also have a hasport mount which I have not installed yet.

The issue I was having was where to go from here.

This is a daily driven car so adjustability is appealing.

I asked progress and they said their rear sway doesn't fit 2015s. Which I find hard to believe.

Then looking at coil overs, it looks like the only decent track option is buddy club race spec, but again I'm afraid it would rub on the 18s with the 2015 (not sure it could handle more than a 1" drop) and the spring rates are equal all around which as far as my limited knowledge goes is that is not ideal for a track setup. Also people tell me buddy club is ebay quality but overpriced. Others require cutting the strut mount?

What other options do I have? Chassis stiffening? Is that even a good idea for a daily driven car, especially the welding options (not a welder btw)?

Thanks im just feeling unsure and have searched and searched forums but track goes and specifically the 2015ers are rare so I can't find help with rubbing the 18s or the swaybar issue
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Thanks for the tag @Nix

First things first -- what size are your tires? I'm running a 235/40/17 square setup right now, and I didn't experience any greasiness until my last session of the day. For my coilovers, I'm running Godspeed MonoRS and I like them a bunch. They are 8k front, 10k rear. They offer a more aggressive setup now, but this works for me as I daily drive my car. If you are on the stock wheels, you probably not rub. Again, for reference, my tires are mounted on a 17x9, +35et and I run -2.0* of camber all around. I will probably jump to a 255 next season. Whoever is telling you that buddy club stuff is ebay quality is someone who you should probably avoid listening to.

In all honesty, Don't worry about any of this stuff. The best way to get yourself on the track is to spend money on a decent set of brake pads, high temp fluid, and tires. I had RT615k's before, but I really like my Advan AD08R's as they're quiet for daily driving and can take the abuse on the track. Address the small stuff and build the car around your driving progress. Spend the money on a couple of track days and you'll know what parts to add/change to lower your times.
 
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Safe Gabe said:
Thanks for the tag @Nix
In all honesty, Don't worry about any of this stuff. The best way to get yourself on the track is to spend money on a decent set of brake pads, high temp fluid, and tires. I had RT615k's before, but I really like my Advan AD08R's as they're quiet for daily driving and can take the abuse on the track. Address the small stuff and build the car around your driving progress. Spend the money on a couple of track days and you'll know what parts to add/change to lower your times.
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So far I'm still new but have 300 laps at VIR in various configurations with the Si.

I've been running the falkens 225/40 18 on the stock 29 pound wheels, which I think probably suck for the track and are a pain to take off to bleed/swap brakes. The falkens I can feel them slipping the longer im on the track the less speed I can carry into certain turns before they lose grip, really annoying. The falkens are now at about the end of their life so new tires is a go.

For brakes I'm using EBC yellows (which stop great but seem to wear really fast) mainly due to availability and price but wouldn't mind trying carbon tech xp8 or xp10s once I nail down my other upgrades. Using motul rbf 600 with no issues there and stainless steel lines.

I need to get some wheels for sure. I feel like there is no excuse to continue going out there with 29 pound wheels.

I tried to search for other options besides rpf1 but with their weight and +35 with 18x8 offset it seems too ideal. I might rub with 235/45 . Im guessing you had to roll your fenders with your setup?

For tires I'm not sure yet, I had nt01s on my previous car and they were insane but just wore way too fast costing me $400 per weekend. So im hoping for something slightly better. Maybe nt05 or bfg rivals. Also ive heard federal rsr 959 are the secret weapon if you can find them.
 
NoTorque said:
So far I'm still new but have 300 laps at VIR in various configurations with the Si.

I've been running the falkens 225/40 18 on the stock 29 pound wheels, which I think probably suck for the track and are a pain to take off to bleed/swap brakes. The falkens I can feel them slipping the longer im on the track the less speed I can carry into certain turns before they lose grip, really annoying. The falkens are now at about the end of their life so new tires is a go.

For brakes I'm using EBC yellows (which stop great but seem to wear really fast) mainly due to availability and price but wouldn't mind trying carbon tech xp8 or xp10s once I nail down my other upgrades. Using motul rbf 600 with no issues there and stainless steel lines.

I need to get some wheels for sure. I feel like there is no excuse to continue going out there with 29 pound wheels.

I tried to search for other options besides rpf1 but with their weight and +35 with 18x8 offset it seems too ideal. I might rub with 235/45 . Im guessing you had to roll your fenders with your setup?

For tires I'm not sure yet, I had nt01s on my previous car and they were insane but just wore way too fast costing me $400 per weekend. So im hoping for something slightly better. Maybe nt05 or bfg rivals. Also ive heard federal rsr 959 are the secret weapon if you can find them.
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Nice. I would love to run VIR. I'm not sure how you're chewing thru tires every weekend. Have you considered sizing down to 17's?
 
Not really going through tires in 1 weekend but maybe 2 to 3 weekends (each weekend is ~250 min on track) before they start to wear to the point where I need to replace them for the 100 tread lifers.

Haven't considered 17s but assuming they would clear the calipers that would lower my chance I would have to roll the fender slightly. It would look really stupid though with the stock ride height of the 2015.

I wonder how much the BC race spec would drop the car.
 
NoTorque said:
Not really going through tires in 1 weekend but maybe 2 to 3 weekends (each weekend is ~250 min on track) before they start to wear to the point where I need to replace them for the 100 tread lifers.

Haven't considered 17s but assuming they would clear the calipers that would lower my chance I would have to roll the fender slightly. It would look really stupid though with the stock ride height of the 2015.

I wonder how much the BC race spec would drop the car.
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You don't have to slam the car. I'm raising mine because I still get some rubbing in the rear, but it's probably the 235's on a 9j.

Do you run with any particular organization?
 
Safe Gabe said:
You don't have to slam the car. I'm raising mine because I still get some rubbing in the rear, but it's probably the 235's on a 9j.

Do you run with any particular organization?
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I'm thinking max 1" lower is about all I would want, just to close the wheel gap so the gate workers stop pointing me to the rally track.

I've always gone with PCA (porsche guys) because a close friend has a 911 in the same run group. They are a real mature group, everyone is really helpful. They focus on keeping everyone safe and on the track but I still get a good amount of solo time. Usually a lot of bmw guys and some corvette guys are there too and maybe a honda or two. Definitely would recommend them. Im also trying to get on some trackdaze events too.
 
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I'd recommend something just over an inch for drop. The older 8th gens seemed to do really well with closer to a 2" drop, at least thats what chris at redshift recommended to people who wanted maximum handling. Most drop springs are over 1" but you may want to consult someone more knowledgeable on spring rates. That can make more difference than the drop itself. It sounds like you're pretty well versed in "track stuff" though. I'm pretty sure redshift can fab up a ground control coil over setup for you with custom spring rates that would be fantastic. Then you could tune the drop to you're liking. It's really not that much more expensive than an out of the box coil over setup.
 
NoTorque said:
I'm thinking max 1" lower is about all I would want, just to close the wheel gap so the gate workers stop pointing me to the rally track.

I've always gone with PCA (porsche guys) because a close friend has a 911 in the same run group. They are a real mature group, everyone is really helpful. They focus on keeping everyone safe and on the track but I still get a good amount of solo time. Usually a lot of bmw guys and some corvette guys are there too and maybe a honda or two. Definitely would recommend them. Im also trying to get on some trackdaze events too.
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Awesome. I run with NASA out here and go to other random events. I'd like to see your car once you've got it set up. What engine bolt ons are you running
 
Safe Gabe said:
Awesome. I run with NASA out here and go to other random events. I'd like to see your car once you've got it set up. What engine bolt ons are you running
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Very mild bolt ons, just rv6 downpipe and tune. all other mods just arent worth the money IMO (diminishing returns) for my car which I also daily drive (like a lot of honda guys). Exhaust sounds great but isn't annoying or loud and doesn't rattle. I'm still trying to figure out how to pass state inspection without reattaching the stock downpipe.

In the straights I leave base caymans/boxsters, GTIs, brz, miata. Was hanging with a stock 135i on Monday. The high powered guys like gt3 or carrera s/gts/turbo leave me pretty easily but for cars up to twice the new price of the si, they don't get away too easily. A few fast STi and evos have been out there. Im a bit off their pace but can definitely compete.

I just need some more speed, grip, and stability in those turning sections because right now that's where they are catching me. I figure wheels will help turning and acceleration so thats a win win. From there its just suspension and tweaking the setup and I should be good enough for HPDE 2 for sure.

Only problem with running with pca is that those guys have money to blow!
 
NoTorque said:
Very mild bolt ons, just rv6 downpipe and tune. all other mods just arent worth the money IMO (diminishing returns) for my car which I also daily drive (like a lot of honda guys). Exhaust sounds great but isn't annoying or loud and doesn't rattle. I'm still trying to figure out how to pass state inspection without reattaching the stock downpipe.

In the straights I leave base caymans/boxsters, GTIs, brz, miata. Was hanging with a stock 135i on Monday. The high powered guys like gt3 or carrera s/gts/turbo leave me pretty easily but for cars up to twice the new price of the si, they don't get away too easily. A few fast STi and evos have been out there. Im a bit off their pace but can definitely compete.

I just need some more speed, grip, and stability in those turning sections because right now that's where they are catching me. I figure wheels will help turning and acceleration so thats a win win. From there its just suspension and tweaking the setup and I should be good enough for HPDE 2 for sure.

Only problem with running with pca is that those guys have money to blow!
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Oh so you're in HPDE1? The sit in instructors could offer advice for how to set up your car. Yeah I would really recommend coils and a more aggressive alignment then. Consider going down to 17's so you can fit a more aggressive sizing in terms of tires. By staggering your tire setup, you'll get the rears to match the front temps sooner and you will also induce more oversteer. I would highly recommend dialing more camber as well. The cars are setup very conservatively from the factory, and some camber will do wonders for the car.

I'm not sure how VIR is, but the track I frequent the most is very technical in a lot of sections, so if you can wheel, you can definitely drive around higher HP cars. Let us know your progress!
 
SafeGabe- How long have you had your Godspeed coilovers? You mentioned that you daily drive you car... how many miles so far? Any issues with noises/leaks/pillow balls deteriorating? Thank you.
 
Gugs said:
SafeGabe- How long have you had your Godspeed coilovers? You mentioned that you daily drive you car... how many miles so far? Any issues with noises/leaks/pillow balls deteriorating? Thank you.
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I have about 20k. The tears have already been replaced and the fork design has changed for the newer version. If you go to my build thread, I cover the differences of the bushing type. I was planning on swapping out soon, and I still might come next season, but at the time, fixing what I had was the easiest answer.
 
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