DIY Electrical Work inside/outside your car!

By law you can't have high beams and fogs going at the same time. That's why they turn off as soon as you hit your high beams. If they were on a fully independent switch, "by law" you'd have to manually flip them off any time you used the highs.
 
AlienPrime, or anyone! Im hoping someone can answer this one for me. I am currently running non-oem foglights and my 7.5A AC fuse keeps blowing. I think I am currently tapped to the blue cable(AC power??) in the 13pin connector(inside the car).


How can I go about getting power from an unused fuse slot rather then my AC?

 

Attachments

  • FOG.jpg
    FOG.jpg
    110.5 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
denyo said:
AlienPrime, or anyone! Im hoping someone can answer this one for me. I am currently running non-oem foglights and my 7.5A AC fuse keeps blowing. I think I am currently tapped to the blue cable(AC power??) in the 13pin connector(inside the car).


How can I go about getting power from an unused fuse slot rather then my AC?

Click to expand...
Remove the power feed from where you currently have it, install a blade terminal and then use a fuse tap to plug into the slot of your choice. The reason your 7.5 amp fuse keeps blowing is because it is not big enough. You need at least a 10 amp fuse.

2 x 55 watt bulbs = 110 watts. With engine off, you are at 12.6 volts. 110/12.6 = 8.73 amps of current. This is why your 7.5 amp fuse keeps blowing. Even seeing 14V with engine running, that would still be ( 110/14 ) = 7.85 amps.
 
lol you need way more than 7.5A you are supposed to be running at 80% load! i'd say put two 10A fuses or a 25A fuse even!! lol
 
Thanks for everyones help! I ran down to my local auto store one of those plugs cost me $17!! It does come with a few different rated fuses.
I noticed the slot 23 is rated for 7.5A? If i plug it with a 10A or higher wouldn't I risk melting something or is that rating for what would supposedly be in slot 23? Thanks again everyone!
 
The fuse rating would be for what the normal load for slot 23..... the wire feeding it is going to be able to pass 30+ amps I am sure. The fuse is sized for the wire on the load side of the fuse, in order to protect the wiring in case of a short circuit.
 
Michael Hurd said:
The fuse rating would be for what the normal load for slot 23..... the wire feeding it is going to be able to pass 30+ amps I am sure. The fuse is sized for the wire on the load side of the fuse, in order to protect the wiring in case of a short circuit.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying. So would you follow AlienPrime recommendation of two 10A or 25A for this connection? The only thing Im worried about is melting wires or anything that would cause a headache :/
 
you won't melt wires if you have like #18AWG Stranded.....with the crappy chinese quality cable insulation, you can get like 15A in a #18awg no probs. If you got a good cable with 90c insulated cabling, 25A+ shouldn't be an issue...
 
So i've been wanting to do this for some time...

this is my control paneling for my entire car electrical project. Will have full control of underglow(front sides and rear independently), DRL's Parking lights, fogs and Trunk lighting. Everything will be on a single pole master switch that will be located in the trunk.

Hope you don't get lost in the grounding. Hope it's as clear as possible!

Any questions, as always feel free to let me know :)

C5coJtr.png
 
Last edited:
you're doing underglow on your car? Can you be convinced otherwise? :hiding:
 
For those of you interested in how the trunk lighting is done with LED's, it is a simple replay. As the trunk opens, the NO Relay closes and completes the circuit making the lights come on. When the trunk is closed, the relay returns to it's NO position.
ukQZmRy.png
 
webby said:
you're doing underglow on your car? Can you be convinced otherwise? :hiding:
Click to expand...
HAHA! Whyy? i'm doing it in a very special way. It's simple for when i park the car. Nobody will even know there is underglow on the car otherwise haha. Trust me when i say i'm a perfectionist when it comes to electrical work :)
 
So here's my newest one. Helping ADE a little too with the timer replays and modulation onset for relay drop-kits :)

i tried to make multiple grounds to clear up the drawing... in reality you'll probably only have 2 or 3 grounds. It's all 18AWG because current doesn't even exceed 5A :)

any questions, as always let me know :)
KPrxQx2.png
 
I do have a Head Unit and Reverse Camera install project coming up that I may need guidance on. i.e. where to tap into the reverse light for camera activation and where to splice the wire for the parking brake interlock for the Head Unit. Although, I have a bypass for this coming that may negate that need. Hopefully the instructions are clear.

Also, debating whether or not I want to do a video out from my phone to the Head Unit or the iMid for navigation purposes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top