Official 'What did you do to your car today?' Thread

Six_speed_demon said:
It's cool remind you tomorrow :)
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You forgot to remind me and I forgot until now lol but here you go!
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hey_mikey said:
as much as i hate tearing into a brand new car, i hate dangling wires more. hardwired the dashcam into an open accessory port in the fusebox and ran the wire along the headliner and a-pillar. this short run is the only exposed section

View attachment 19130
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I want to do this with a radar detector. How long did it take? I assume you ran it across the front of the headliner and down the A-pillar? How does it look where the wire tucks into the headliner? Can you show me a picture of the accessory port and how you wired it? Sorry for so many questions just trying to be thorough in one post.
 
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trustdestruction said:
I want to do this with a radar detector. How long did it take? I assume you ran it across the front of the headliner and down the A-pillar? How does it look where the wire tucks into the headliner? Can you show me a picture of the accessory port and how you wired it? Sorry for so many questions just trying to be thorough in one post.
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This is for a 2013 Accord, but I did it exactly the same way in my Civic before this. Took me about 10-15 min to get it across the headliner, down the a-pillar, and wired into the fusebox. If i remember correctly, in the civic, the fuse diagram shows if each fuse is 12v constant or ignition switched. I think the labels were "batt" or "12v+" for constant and "ign" or something similar. I really don't remember. In the accord, it was a little different. All the already used circuits from the fusebox were 12v constant, so I guess acc circuits were activated by a relay. I ended up using an open (non-marked) fuse location that just happened to be hot only when the ignition was set to "on" which is exactly what I wanted. I'm at work right now, but I'll get some photos for you on my break
 
trustdestruction said:
I want to do this with a radar detector. How long did it take? I assume you ran it across the front of the headliner and down the A-pillar? How does it look where the wire tucks into the headliner? Can you show me a picture of the accessory port and how you wired it? Sorry for so many questions just trying to be thorough in one post.
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Here's how it looks from the other side. The wire is just a little too small to stay up on its own, so I used a small zip tie pulled really tight and it holds it up where it drops down. Also put another zip tie along the length of the wire to keep the center section from dropping.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369756708.755980.jpg

Before you can pull the a-pillar off, you need to pull the weather stripping down. If you pull the a-pillar trim from the top, it'll pop a couple of clips. Then you'll need to slide it up towards the roof to slide the top clip out of its holder. You don't want to separate the two parts of this clip because it's designed to hold the pillar on in the event of side curtain airbag deployment. Once it was off, I ran the wire next to the wire loom already in place from the factory.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369756926.958904.jpg

The weather stripping should be pulled off up to the kick panel. Here you can run the wire behind the weather stripping and behind the kick panel to get to the fusebox.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369757162.943123.jpg

I used a 12v lighter-style power outlet I found at autozone. It's just two wires, power and ground. I ran a ground to this location (first picture) and power from an add-a-circuit thingy. As I said earlier, all the accord's factory fuses were 12v constant, but I found that a few open locations were ignition switched. Plugged in the add-a-circuit thingy there (second picture) and connected it to the positive end of the power outlet.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369757178.192667.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk 21369757404.408901.jpg
 
liljusepy said:
S2ki.com! Search the for sale forum, they pop up pretty regularly and are around that same price if the seller is being nice ;)
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Ah ok, I don't see any at the moment. I talked the buyer of my 8th into selling me my shift knob back for $55. Better than 100, I guess. :/

And just did this..
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hey_mikey said:
Here's how it looks from the other side. The wire is just a little too small to stay up on its own, so I used a small zip tie pulled really tight and it holds it up where it drops down. Also put another zip tie along the length of the wire to keep the center section from dropping.


Before you can pull the a-pillar off, you need to pull the weather stripping down. If you pull the a-pillar trim from the top, it'll pop a couple of clips. Then you'll need to slide it up towards the roof to slide the top clip out of its holder. You don't want to separate the two parts of this clip because it's designed to hold the pillar on in the event of side curtain airbag deployment. Once it was off, I ran the wire next to the wire loom already in place from the factory.


The weather stripping should be pulled off up to the kick panel. Here you can run the wire behind the weather stripping and behind the kick panel to get to the fusebox.


I used a 12v lighter-style power outlet I found at autozone. It's just two wires, power and ground. I ran a ground to this location (first picture) and power from an add-a-circuit thingy. As I said earlier, all the accord's factory fuses were 12v constant, but I found that a few open locations were ignition switched. Plugged in the add-a-circuit thingy there (second picture) and connected it to the positive end of the power outlet.
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Great pics, thanks. I may have to do this.
 
No need to hack up your wiring or waste extra money, just get different LED bulbs. superbrightleds.com has some that have the resistors already or something. I have a pair that were plug n play.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/universal-led-bulb-finder/filter/Base,7440,1,52:

I believe I have the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 15 LED. I also had the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED before for some tinted taillights (but since they were dual filament they were a different bulb number) and they were extremely bright.
 
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trustdestruction said:
No need to hack up your wiring or waste extra money, just get different LED bulbs. superbrightleds.com has some that have the resistors already or something. I have a pair that were plug n play.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/universal-led-bulb-finder/filter/Base,7440,1,52:

I believe I have the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 15 LED. I also had the 7440 LED Bulb - Single Intensity 1 x 3 Watt High Power LED before for some tinted taillights (but since they were dual filament they were a different bulb number) and they were extremely bright.
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those don't have inline resistors tho...

i just bypassed/disabled HVAC resistors :D

LIKE A BOSS
like-a-boss-011.jpg
 
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