p2r ported im runners

For sure bro. I'm pretty set on all motor. I'm going to get everything and anything! LOL — FULL RACE exhaust + d/p and this intake manifold + (maybe) GReddy intake. Then, obviously tune it. Probably going with HONDATA. I'd KILL to know if there's an ITB set up for '13! LOL

 

K-series ITBs on this page... They should fit but I really don't know what kind of changes are involved regarding the lines, wiring, and injectors/fuel rail.

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/index.php?cPath=389_207_204

 

OMFG! LOL, I owe you, bro! You made my day. Wow.

 

You're welcome. I knew I remembered seeing them somewhere.

 

in for write up

 

Any updates on the dyno or DIY?

I'm thinking about doing this since it's completely bolt on and doesn't require any changes. TBH, as ugly as it is... shouldn't the plastic intake manifold help with IATs?

 

I actually rode around in a sedan with rbc and dp. I have dyno graphs of it during tune. It was not completed when I rode in it but it had waaaayyyy more balls! Very interested in this.

 

So I'm kinda considering getting this thing...is it worth the money?? Have you guys really noticed a difference in performance/sound?

 

Ok. Finally. I know its long over due but a flashpro will be on its way next week, get tuned and we will finally have hp numbers on this part, it will be paired with tsudo catback rv6 catless dp, injen cai(might get switched for a rick spec) and possibly the procivic big bore tb. So it will be compairablemod wise to most of the people with the rbc w/ zdx tb and all the other basic bolt ons. Excited to see howthis measures up.

 

Ported IM w/big bore TB vs RBC w/ZDX TB...seems interesting lol

 

Ya I'm sure the rbc setup will prob have more power but I think I should be able to get pretty close with this setup. Guess we will find out soon enough.

 

Update? Interested in dyno numbers before I decide to purchase

 

This is very interesting. I would love to see a before and after dyno.

Also, do the plastic manifold runners match the ported aluminum portion? Or are they still the small round ports similar to the factory aluminum portion?

 

Do you have numbers yet? I am interested in this as well

 

In for update.

 

No the plastic upper IM does not match the porting on the aluminum runners, the ported runners then obviously have larger openings than the plastic upper IM.

 

This thread just kinda died off.. Any updated info??

 

Yeah , any updates anyone?. Seeing as the RBC doesnt seem to be as good as I thought , this seems to be the next viable option. Has anyone installed this yet?.

 

I've been driving around with this for over half a year now, I think it does increase high end power, but it's hard to tell for sure because it obviously won't change the curve of the powerband much. Someone on an accord forum had a shop port their runners, dynoed before/after and claimed 7 WHP increase. The 8th gen accord has the K24Z3 which is almost the same as the K24Z7 in the civic SI. Supposedly the V6 accords also dyno gains porting their runners. It does indeed change the sound, it makes the engine slightly deeper and louder.

I heard P2R does not sell this part any more, however I'd recommend just ordering the runners from a honda dealer and working it yourself anyways. The part is called "fuel injector base", it's about $100 so it's much cheaper this way. Then buy some emery cloth/metalsand (basically sandpaper for metal) from home depot and start sanding it out just to smooth the texture. There's no need to enlarge the port too much since it would create a mismatch between the runners and plastic upper manifold. Remember to clean the runners with alcohol when done, ingesting abrasives is obviously horrible for the engine.

Obviously wait until the engine is cold before messing with anything to do with coolant. During install, gently clamping off the coolant line with a needle nose visegrip so you don't lose too much coolant, it is a huge pain to drain and refill.

The fuel system will need to be depressurized, I think the procedure was to open the gas cap, pull the fuel pump fuse and then set the ignition key to "II" without starting.

Use canned air the blow out grains of dirt/sand between the runners and engine, and then again at the injector o ring seals, you don't want dirt falling into the engine. Then put a couple drops of oil into the injector gaskets so the whole assembly pops out easier. The fuel rail doesn't need to be disconnected, it just swings out of the way. I suggest inspecting the injectors, cleaning the o ring seals again, and then bagging it up so it doesn't get dirty when you move it out of the way.