Progress 24mm rear sway bar

S

silversilvia

Well-Known Member
112
67
Was wondering if anyone else had one. I had a choice between this and the more popular 22mm version. Since i wanted to autocross the car I figured the stiffer the better. I currently have it on the stiffest setting and haven't had problems on the street yet. Also they come with end links.

They started to clunk a bit I think I need to tighten up the end links a bit better. I am somewhat use to clunking end links, My s2000 with saber front bar clunked as well.

Wanted to see if anyone else had these and what they thought about it.
 
I have the 22mm, but that was more for the style of driving I feel is best "For me". As long as a thicker bar doesn't over do the action of over/under steer, I see no problem with it, and could be a better choice. Glad it's working for you.

As far as the cluncking goes, I'd want to stop that asap, it's a form of hammering which will lead to distortion of the parts connected, and could also effect other parts that the bar is connected to.
 
Last edited:
Monk said:
I have the 22mm, but that was more for the style of driving I feel is best "For me". As long as a thicker bar doesn't over do the action of over/under steer, I see no problem with it, and could be a better choice. Glad it's working for you.

As far as the cluncking goes, I'd want to stop that asap, it's a form of hammering which will lead to distortion of the parts connected, and could also effect other parts that the bar is connected to.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I'll get them re tightened and hope that fixes it for good.
 
I have the 22mm on an otherwise stock si sedan and autocross fairly frequently. It has made the car much more neutral and more fun to drive. I wouldnt worry about the oversteer, its not like the back end kicks out unexpectedly, only when you want to and make it. I would definitely use the bracing plates for the control arm endlink mounts if you havent already.
 
Actually, if you used to drive an s2000, you'll probably really enjoy the 24mm bar at autox.

Also, this may sound stupid but could the clunking be because you have the bar in upside down? a few people have done that since it still barely fits upside down and hits the exhaust
 
kleblanc said:
I would definitely use the bracing plates for the control arm endlink mounts if you havent already.
Click to expand...

Make sure to drill the third hole, too!

kleblanc said:
Also, this may sound stupid but could the clunking be because you have the bar in upside down? a few people have done that since it still barely fits upside down and hits the exhaust
Click to expand...

Depending on how one installs this (lift vs. jack stands), it is a very tight fit to maneuver the bar into place correctly, but easier to do it incorrectly (upside down). While using jack stands, I actually found it helpful to disconnect the axle-back spring bolts to give a it bit more wiggle room for maneuvering.
 
Last edited:
squiggy said:
Depending on how one installs this (lift vs. jack stands), it is a very tight fit to maneuver the bar into place correctly, but easier to do it incorrectly (upside down). While using jack stands, I actually found it helpful to disconnect the axle-back spring bolts to give a it bit more wiggle room for maneuvering.
Click to expand...

I used ramps and it was definitly a pain to remove all the panels and cross bracing
 
kleblanc said:
The brace that goes under the fuel tank, along the length of the car. Sorry not really a "cross brace"
Click to expand...


That is what I thought, but it is not necessary to remove that. If someone were to do that, I would suggest making sure the gas tank has very little fuel in it.

The bar can be threaded through. That is what I was referencing above when I said that it can be tricky to maneuver it into place.
 
squiggy said:
That is what I thought, but it is not necessary to remove that. If someone were to do that, I would suggest making sure the gas tank has very little fuel in it.

The bar can be threaded through. That is what I was referencing above when I said that it can be tricky to maneuver it into place.
Click to expand...

Originally I thought it would be easy to install it without removing the brace but laying under the car and trying to manoever the bar around everything it looked way easier to just unbolt that brace. Maybe if the tires are removed you can thread it up and over the brace.
 
Last edited:
kleblanc said:
Maybe if the tires are removed you can thread it up and over the brace.
Click to expand...

That definitely helps. I believe I just removed the driver's side.

There are definitely many ways to tackle this install depending on individual circumstances.
 
Yes unbolt the brace. I didn't and turned a 1 hour job into a 2. I don't believe I installed it upside down. I looked at the old one and the pictures in the manual. But I'll take some pictures to make sure I didn't and post it here.

I did use the mounting point brace :)
 
FreeSamples said:
You're right! I didn't know the cheaper one is a 22mm. So would it be better to grab the 24 over the 22mm if you plan to auto cross or go to the track ?
Click to expand...


If the plan is to track the car, a 24mm is recommended.
 
If your car still has stock springs I think 24mm is too big. The car rolls so much in the front(which isnt necessarily a bad thing for overall grip) that if you stiffen the rear too much you lose too much grip at the rear. My rear tire lifts consistently with the 22mm bar at autocross. If you plan on getting stiffer springs/coilovers, then 24mm would be ok in my opinion.
 
kleblanc said:
If your car still has stock springs I think 24mm is too big. The car rolls so much in the front(which isnt necessarily a bad thing for overall grip) that if you stiffen the rear too much you lose too much grip at the rear. My rear tire lifts consistently with the 22mm bar at autocross. If you plan on getting stiffer springs/coilovers, then 24mm would be ok in my opinion.
Click to expand...


MarkA was just recently relating his track experiences with the upgrade to the 22mm bar. He may be able to add to the discussion as well as utilize your thoughts on a spring/coil upgrade.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top