xXCiviXx's 2013 DBP Si aka Alice (Picture Heavy)

Heres the Morimoto XB fogs Installed, also got all retrofit parts (except the resistors) to finish my retrofit so that should be done within a week hopefully
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I was planning on having the LED double as parking lights that blink while signaling.

However I have some bad news. I tested the LED bar on my car before I installed to make sure everything worked and to make sure the electrical system didn't cause the LEDs to blow. Everything seemed to work perfect. Once I finalized everything, started the car and turned on the lights, the LEDs blew one at a time. Don't know if there was a change in voltage or something so I took everything apart again and am just running the retro fit until I figure out something else to do or something better. Sucks that all the time and work I put into this ended up being for nothing. For now at least.

Anyways, here's a teaser of the headlights as they sit now
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@ethlar or the other member messing with LED lights/projectors may know what would be required to keep them working properly? See a few posts above to view the light bar.
 
Most LEDs don't use that much power so I'm pretty sure some sort of transistor would be required to reduce the power the LEDs get.
 
That's really unfortunate to hear. I'm really looking forward to seeing this up and running and installed.
All good advise above. You could also try using a DC voltage regulator, amazon sells them.

When I was working on my TLX retrofit, I work out a controller that runs the DRLs, and retains the flash to pass function.
It could probably be modified to run them as DRLs, and then parking lights at night(if you have two different intensities), and the flash to pass.

If you are interested I'd be happy to share to the diagram of what I did.
 
Most LEDs don't use that much power so I'm pretty sure some sort of transistor would be required to reduce the power the LEDs get.

That's really unfortunate to hear. I'm really looking forward to seeing this up and running and installed.
All good advise above. You could also try using a DC voltage regulator, amazon sells them.
I calculated that for 2 LEDS for each bar I would need a 6.8 Ohm resistor for a 12V power supply. I should've used a DC regulator or something to test a live output. Didn't think it might be a different voltage just having the parking light or low beams on vs the same thing with the car actually running. Might be back to the drawing board or looking for new ideas if I decide to continue down this path. I would just rather have a solid beam than be able to see each individual LED.
 
if you used high power cree LEDs they often need current regulation more than voltage regulation, also remember your cars electrical system is at 14v when the engine is running, 12v at rest. If you picked resistors for absolute max output at 12v you could have been overdriving them at 14v
 
if you used high power cree LEDs they often need current regulation more than voltage regulation, also remember your cars electrical system is at 14v when the engine is running, 12v at rest. If you picked resistors for absolute max output at 12v you could have been overdriving them at 14v
That's exactly what I think I did. Damn. Lol
 
Ek seems to be in decent shape too. Any mods done to that car?
 
Ek seems to be in decent shape too. Any mods done to that car?
It actually belongs to a good friend of mine. Just installed progress coilovers last week, rear strut bar, exhaust, wheels and carbon wrapped hood, roof and trunk. Not too sure about engine mods besides rewiring engine sensors to the ECU, but he's running a d16 that the previous owner swapped
 
Found and bought some parts on Kijiji today. Weathertech window visors and Skunk2 76mm exhaust. Exhaust gets installed tomorrow after the 3M on my hood gets warrantied at the dealership.
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Also went on a crazy search for gaskets trying to find ones that would fit. Ended up going with these 2. Part #'s might be helpful for those who buy a second hand exhaust if the #'s correspond between manufacturers
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