First time on the track with my 2012 Civic Si sedan

[MarkA]

I just ordered the 22mm Progress rear sway bar from Redshift Motorsports. Their info indicated that the stock end links should be fine, so I didn't put down the extra $$$ for the Moog end links. The upgraded bushings sound worthwhile. How many will I need? 2?

While I was on the Redshift site, I also ordered a pair of front camber bolts. I don't really know much about them, but it seems they should be a bit of help reducing the understeer for not so much aggravation or $$.

 

[squiggy]

I just ordered the 22mm Progress rear sway bar from Redshift Motorsports. Their info indicated that the stock end links should be fine, so I didn't put down the extra $$$ for the Moog end links. The upgraded bushings sound worthwhile. How many will I need? 2?

While I was on the Redshift site, I also ordered a pair of front camber bolts. I don't really know much about them, but it seems they should be a bit of help reducing the understeer for not so much aggravation or $$.

Two is all you would need to the bushings. The camber bolts should only be needed if you lower your car.

 

[Nix]

Yeah one package of the bushings from Energy is all you need. I ordered mine from Amazon. (of all places)

 

[MarkA]

The camber bolts should only be needed if you lower your car.

At http://redshiftmotorsports.com, they have a short discussion of suspension mods for the 2012 Civic Si. He recommends adding a little negative camber to the front to help eliminate the understeer in hard cornering. The install doesn't sound too hard, so I'll give it a try. Lowering the car is something I may do later, after I do some of the "easy" things, like an upgraded sway bar.

 

[squiggy]

At http://redshiftmotorsports.com, they have a short discussion of suspension mods for the 2012 Civic Si. He recommends adding a little negative camber to the front to help eliminate the understeer in hard cornering. The install doesn't sound too hard, so I'll give it a try. Lowering the car is something I may do later, after I do some of the "easy" things, like an upgraded sway bar.

Ahhh. Hadn't considered the benefits for track purposes. Thanks for the info!

 

[MarkA]

Front Brake Air Ducts?

Yesterday, I discovered how incredibly easy it is to remove the fog lights from my 2012 Si, leading into an empty space, separated from the front wheel well by one thin piece of plastic. Would it be a Bad Thing to cut a hole in said plastic, and run a piece of flexible hose to blow some air toward the front brakes when I'm on the track? Would the hole need to be covered when off track? (I live in an area of snowy winters).

 

[Nix]

I hear ya on the snow.... I'm not sure what to suggest...
If you have fog lights and you didn't mind removing and replacing them for track days I think the ducting wouldn't be a bad idea at all. Certainly in the winter if you put the fog lights back in and removed the duct, I don't think you would have any issues.

There is a beacon of hope for track brakes for you..... There are two Bolt-On with little to no modification brake upgrades available. Check out this thread. You might want to get the new calipers, rotors, and track pads. It might provide enough heat dissipation that you won't even need the ducting. That is a much cheaper option though for current track sessions.


http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/brembo-brakes-100-bolt-on.8139/#post-195899

 

[MarkA]

There is a beacon of hope for track brakes for you..... There are two Bolt-On with little to no modification brake upgrades available. Check out this thread. You might want to get the new calipers, rotors, and track pads. It might provide enough heat dissipation that you won't even need the ducting. That is a much cheaper option though for current track sessions.


http://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/brembo-brakes-100-bolt-on.8139/#post-195899

I've seen the Brembo upgrade kits for the Si, but they run about $3,000 per axle. I'd much rather troll the Internet to find some Carbotech pads that fit the OEM caliper and rotor. I've already found EBC yellow and blue pads, which are another possibility.

I just sent in my order for the Progress rear sway bar. The next big item I get will probably be coilovers. That probably won't be till next year. I need to eat, too.

 

[Nix]

I think most guys get the calipers used and have them rebuilt. Its a cheap way to get a great set of brakes. Send a message to the guy who started the brake thread and see how much he spent. New Im sure they are a ton.


A good set of Koni yellows and nice springs won't set you back as much as a track worthy coilover setup.

I really like this thread btw. It's a lot of fun. When is your next track session?

 

[liljusepy]

You can get the dc5 front brembos for $500-$900. I am having issues finding a rebuild kit available in the USA.

 

[MarkA]

Front Brake Air Ducts?

Yesterday, I discovered how incredibly easy it is to remove the fog lights from my 2012 Si, leading into an empty space, separated from the front wheel well by one thin piece of plastic. Would it be a Bad Thing to cut a hole in said plastic, and run a piece of flexible hose to blow some air toward the front brakes when I'm on the track? Would the hole need to be covered when off track? (I live in an area of snowy winters).

Replying to myself. Cool. Schizophrenia much?

Anyway, FWIW, I found a thread addressing this very topic on honda-tech.com. (I hope it's not considered an insult here to cite a different website):

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=3036676

 

[323]

Only one site is prohibited
Thanks for sharing what you found out, it helps everyone following this thread.
I follow it because I'm learning a lot about how to prepare for being on the track.
So keep sharing your experiences and info, it helps the whole community

 

[Nix]

I found a chart over on ctbrakes.com

I put in 2006 accord coupe and it gave me this chart listing pad fitments for 2003-2007 accords. I think you had mentioned that these pads would fit in the new civic as well? The 4 cyl accords at least. It looks to me that CT914 is the size that you need and they make it in an XP10 compound which I believe it a track pad. It says not for street use in the description.

Maybe jrotax101 has a suggestion on which pad to try but hopefully this chart will help you decide/determine what might work.

http://www.ctbrakes.com/pads.asp?Make=Honda

EDIT: I can't get the chart to format properly so im just gonna leave the compound links and the part # listings.....

HondaYearCompounds
Accord - Coupe 2003-2007 1521 AX6 XP8 XP10 XP12 XP16 XP20 RP2

V6 EX 6-Speed Manual TransmissionF: CT787

4 Cylinder LX & EX F: CT914

V6 LX & EX Automatic F: CT959 R: CT537

Rear Disc - EX Only R: CT537

V6 - Rear R: CT537

 

[webby]

jro runs air ducts on his bmw m3. He may have advice on that as well.

 

[jrotax101]

XP10 is a great pad.

 

[MarkA]

XP10 is a great pad.

Have you tried the RP2? It's supposed to be like the XP12, but longer lasting.

 

[MarkA]

jro runs air ducts on his bmw m3. He may have advice on that as well.

GrandAm is coming to Watkins Glen next week. I'm hoping I'll get to take a close look at the Civics that team Compass 360 is running, and see what kind of setup they have!

 

[MarkA]

How much pressure is at the Master Brake Cylinder?

I got myself a Motive Products brake bleeder, that consists of a bottle that looks like a weed sprayer, and some tubes and fittings to secure it over the master cylinder. It seems to me that it makes the most sense, in theory at least, to bleed the brake system by pushing new fluid from the master cylinder, and opening each bleeder valve to give it a pathway to the great outdoors. However, getting a decent pressure seal at the master cylinder seems to be a bit of a technical challenge. The stock cap doesn't seem to be very stiff or tight, which makes me wonder, how much pressure is on it during braking? It seems that there must be a LOT of pressure at the caliper, so there should be just as much pressure on the cap, unless there is some sort of check-valve mechanism in the circuit somewhere. If there is a fluid path from the MC to the caliper, and the pressure is different at each end, then the fluid will flow to equalize the pressure. (<-- physics 101). Yet the caliper is a big-*** chunk of steel, and the MC is a flimsy bit of plastic. What gives?

 

[jrotax101]

The MC should be metal, the plastic reservoir contains the extra fluid. There are seals inside the MC.

 

[MarkA]

The MC should be metal, the plastic reservoir contains the extra fluid. There are seals inside the MC.

Got it. When the brake is pressed, the piston has closed off the inlet from the reservoir. Thanks.