- Staff
- #121
Didn't get a chance to get the bike to the house....maybe tomorrow.
Bikes!!!! (MTB, Road, etc... just no motors)
- Thread starter Nix
- Start date
- Staff
- #122
This is basically what the bike looks like but yellow. It is a Santa Cruz Bullit.
SCFast
Well-Known Member
Snap a Bullit freeride that is a sweet score...Lucky
- Staff
- #124
- 52,105
- 22,314
looks like a crazy bike
- Staff
- #125
Here it is...
- Staff
- #126
- 52,105
- 22,314
so now you can take a 5 story jump, and it'll be ok?
- Staff
- #127
lol.....something like that.
KennyGS
How may I help?
Does it need anything to be rideable, or is it good to go? You'll have to give a review on it once you've had a chance to put a few miles on it.
- Thread starter
- #129
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
Sick bike man! Thats awesome. The bullitt is a great freeride bike. The single pivot will transmit a lot of terrain feel but they are wicked for jumping. I used to want one so bad. The rear xt brake is one of the best brakes that ever came out. It's a true 4 piston design. They got redesigned to save weight and were never quite as good as that one.
That fork. I saw a risse sticker on the upper stanchion. They used to make some very nice stuff but you didn't see a lot of it here since they were out of the UK. I believe it is a trixxy fork. Watch the seals. They had a bad run for a couple years and they make leak on you. Other than that nice find.
That fork. I saw a risse sticker on the upper stanchion. They used to make some very nice stuff but you didn't see a lot of it here since they were out of the UK. I believe it is a trixxy fork. Watch the seals. They had a bad run for a couple years and they make leak on you. Other than that nice find.
- Staff
- #130
Needs new tires, new chain and give everything a once over. Need to check the brake pads and the brake discs, one of them is making some noise that is prob the pads rubbing on the disc.
I was rearing up on it and alot of people love the frame evnthough it tends to be a bit on the heavy side. I saw poeple doing a fresh build on a 2001 frame, lol. It does have the Risse susp with Risse hubs. I briefly looked and I thought it was the Trixxy but wasn't sure...thanks to the input on it. I belive that was a $900 susp peice. I did notice the dirt kinda stuck onto the lower part of the fork. Not sure if its the susp fluid that has leaked or other stuff on there. I brouhgt it home late last night so didn't have any light to check it out more.
Any idea on what type of fork mount that front end would need to hook up to? The front axle is nothing like I have seen before. Honestly, the bike is prob way more than I would ever need. I though about selling it but I have no clue what it would go for and not sure if I really want to or not. I feel like since it was given to me that I should just enjoy it eventhough I won't come close to puttting it on trails it can take.
SCFast
Well-Known Member
Ride it just don't end up like this guy looks like it hurt..
- Staff
- #132
lol....
Took the tires off and also the chain. The tires were a b*tch to remove. They are some Intense comp 50 tires, really dry cracked around all the knobs. Needs a deep deep cleaning. Need to mess with the brakes sometime his week.
The Truvativ big sprocket on the crank has a nice dent/flat spot on it. Once I get a new chain I will see if it causes any issues. For now it will stay as-is....
Saw that it has the XT brake in the rear and Hayes brake in the front. Risse hub in the front and shimano XT hub in the rear. Rear disc is a shimano and is way smaller than the front. Prob will replace the brake pads and clean off the rust on the discs. The front susp has some fluid at the bottom of the right shock but doesn't look to be from the susp fluid. It might be from the grease or whatever is in the axle.
Took the tires off and also the chain. The tires were a b*tch to remove. They are some Intense comp 50 tires, really dry cracked around all the knobs. Needs a deep deep cleaning. Need to mess with the brakes sometime his week.
The Truvativ big sprocket on the crank has a nice dent/flat spot on it. Once I get a new chain I will see if it causes any issues. For now it will stay as-is....
Saw that it has the XT brake in the rear and Hayes brake in the front. Risse hub in the front and shimano XT hub in the rear. Rear disc is a shimano and is way smaller than the front. Prob will replace the brake pads and clean off the rust on the discs. The front susp has some fluid at the bottom of the right shock but doesn't look to be from the susp fluid. It might be from the grease or whatever is in the axle.
- Thread starter
- #133
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
The front hub/axle is most likely a 20mm through axle. They are big and stiff. It is definitely a super heavy duty design that they use on downhill bikes to help with stiffness because the forks are so long.
6" disc rotor in the rear, plenty of stopping power. Front is probably an 8" rotor, they look massive when you compare them. Those Hayes brakes will last forever, im still running a set of 03' brakes.
If you do decide that the bike is not geared towards your type of riding, you could probably trade it or sell it and end up with a nice hardtail. I'd say keep it and start shreddin' the gnar!
6" disc rotor in the rear, plenty of stopping power. Front is probably an 8" rotor, they look massive when you compare them. Those Hayes brakes will last forever, im still running a set of 03' brakes.
If you do decide that the bike is not geared towards your type of riding, you could probably trade it or sell it and end up with a nice hardtail. I'd say keep it and start shreddin' the gnar!
- Thread starter
- #134
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
rrrrgg, edit time too short. Anyway..... I see most bullits posted for sale in the $1200-1500 range with a similar part spec. I think you could get $700-800. I think the fork is the only issue you would have if you do decide to sell. People are simply unfamiliar with Risse anymore and getting parts from the UK is not the easiest. The lower price would help if someone thought they just HAD to replace it immediately. If you do decide to keep it, ride it until the fork gives you problems and then replace it.
Most new hardtails that are pretty nice and getting into some upper end performance are right around that $800-1000 area.
Most new hardtails that are pretty nice and getting into some upper end performance are right around that $800-1000 area.
- Staff
- #135
I saw a website that sells Risse susp stuff and it has an Oregon address. Risseracing.com
I prob will ride on it this year and see what I want to do when winter hits. I already have a cheapy hardtail that I bought late last year.
I prob will ride on it this year and see what I want to do when winter hits. I already have a cheapy hardtail that I bought late last year.
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- #136
ugh.....gonna have to buy tires online. The 2 local bike shops are not dropping below $50 per tire.
- Thread starter
- #137
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
cambriabike.com Ive had good luck with them and they usually have a huge sale section.
- Staff
- #138
Any suggestions on tires? It had some 26 x 2.7 which I will prob go down on the width.
Looking at....
WTB Velociraptor or Prowler MX comp but they have a 2.1 at $16-$18.....maybe too skinny?
Continental Mountain King at a 2.4 for $25
Looking at....
WTB Velociraptor or Prowler MX comp but they have a 2.1 at $16-$18.....maybe too skinny?
Continental Mountain King at a 2.4 for $25
- Thread starter
- #139
Nix
Jötunn Moderator
Yeah, stick to the 2.3 - 2.5 wide. 2.7" won't fit through some frames and forks. Also they are really really heavy. I personally like 2.3's the best. A 2.4 is probably exactly the same, just like car tires, measures are a little different for each company.
That conti mountain king looks good. The tread blocks are a similar design to several other "top" MTB tires. They should work great for you.
That conti mountain king looks good. The tread blocks are a similar design to several other "top" MTB tires. They should work great for you.
- Staff
- #140
ordered 2 contis and 2 tubes....