Dar-Dar's 1995 Avus Blue E36 M3 Project Car

Dar-Dar

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I'm picking up a rear subframe with polyurethane bushings today. :woot:
 

Sarcras

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Heat guns go for over 500F and will burn the paint. I doubt the temperatre in an enclosed box will go over 200F using a blow dryer. Here's a pic from years ago:
It's so simple and it works.
Some have adjustable settings. Like the one I have.
20170402_154507.jpg
 

Sarcras

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Now that's fancy. Mine just has a high/low setting
It is fancy but I got it for a good price at my local hardware store. They have a rewards program so every time I spend money I get a portion of it back in store credit.
 

Dar-Dar

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X Brace

I got a deal on this oem x-brace that was available on certain E36s/Z3s. The 1995s did not come with one.
IMG_20170404_155958793.jpg
I cleaned it up a bit with degreaser.
IMG_20170404_160135444.jpg
There's a diy on installing this and one step requires drilling larger holes on the front cross member/subframe so rivet nuts can be inserted. However, the rivet nuts I purchased slipped right through the holes without any drilling. :woot:
IMG_20170405_121641706.jpg
I'm going to try and mount the stock cross member (just a simple bar) somewhere closer to the rear end.
 

Nix

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Man that thing looks janky. I'm surprised you didn't strip and paint it. It has some rust on it!

Nice progress on the car overall too. Major work you are doing.
 

Dar-Dar

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Man that thing looks janky. I'm surprised you didn't strip and paint it. It has some rust on it!

Nice progress on the car overall too. Major work you are doing.
Thanks.

The x-brace only has some minor surface rust. Mainly, on the seam welds and areas that ate the speed bumps. It came from Georgia.

Don't worry, I'll remove it and do some paint work. The car will remain suspended anyway until I install the rear sub frame, trailing arm bushings, etc. Basically, the entire rear end.

I really want to have fun driving it before summer comes around. I know I'll have fun driving it as it stands, but the trailing arm bushings are completely shot (poop handling and wonky alignment) and need to be replaced so I figured I'll do as much as I can on the rear end while I'm at it.

That's pretty cool. I guess.

For $100, it's basically free. The bushings alone go for over $100. Lol. I can't wait to install it. Fingers crossed for no cracked mounting points in the rear. These cars (the older they get) apparently have the tendency to crack on the trailing arm pocket, rear strut mount, sub frame mounting points. I'll be ready to do some welding.

Once the rear end is dropped (after welding or if welding isn't necessary), I'll do some rust repair and spray the entire area with more truck bed coating.
 

Flightmaster127

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Heat guns go for over 500F and will burn the paint. I doubt the temperatre in an enclosed box will go over 200F using a blow dryer. Here's a pic from years ago:

It's so simple and it works.
The next time i paint something I'm doing this. Hope my gf doesnt mind if i steal her hair dryer. I knew i kept a bunch of boxes around for a good reason
 

Dar-Dar

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The next time i paint something I'm doing this. Hope my gf doesnt mind if i steal her hair dryer. I knew i kept a bunch of boxes around for a good reason
Be sure you have exit vents so the blow dryer won't overheat.
 

Dar-Dar

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Dar-Dar

Mordorator
19,329
9,900
North NJ
Vehicle Model
Civic Si
Body Style
Fiji Blue Pearl Coupe Coolest Member Since: May 15, 2011
Front Downforce, Not Really

I installed a fiberglass front splitter that is similar in style as the M3 Lightweight. However, it isn't as functional since the ones you see in the Lightweights are mounted on the bumper support and will actually put some front down force. And this splitter is mounted on the lip of the bumper cover using twelve fender clips on the front and four nuts and bolts on the sides.

This and the stock lip were painted with Rustoleum Trim Paint (and Duplicolor adhesion promoter prior to painting).
IMG_20170411_173012977.jpg IMG_20170411_173224128.jpg

Don't mind the battered up front emblem. :D
 
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