Official 'What did you do to your car today?' Thread

too expensive,you got a turbo, I use 0-40 mobil one European formula in the 1.25 jug. 0-20 is the best in late honda's
 
a multi vis 30 is very very close to a 20. When it comes to motor oils (as opposed to industrial lubes) the extra 10 points isn't as thick as it seems. It's not like 30% more viscous or anything.
In fact, the people at Honda said they moved to a 20 just for the fuel economy benefits. At least that's what one of their factory trained "Top Tech" mechanics told me, a guy I gave so much business to we became friends, Trent Von Locke.

That said, the ASTM 4-ball wear test (the benchmark torture test for oil) shows that a well made 20 is just as good as a 30 when it comes to wear protection. Frankly I was surprised to see that... but the repeated test results are well established by now. That assessment probably doesn't apply to all oils however. I've only seen the results for some of the top synthetics, which does not include M1 unfortunately. But Pennzoil Platinum, yes. Amsoil, certainly. (BTW, do NOT use Amsoil MTF in Honda's limited slip differential/gear boxes)

It's possible, however, you'll burn less oil using a 30 -- depending on engine tolerances. It's the old YMMV argument. So try both, see what happens. Cheers!

:hitit:
 
If possible try to minimize the width of the viscosity band. Unless you absolutely need a 0 or 5 weight because of ambient temps, a 10-30 is better. Or a 5-20 is better than a 0-20... in this respect: The wider viscosity bands mean more viscosity improvers were used in the oil. Those VI elements are the lightest molecules in any oil and therefore burn off the fastest, meaning the original viscosity will change and not be the same.

If you need that extra cold weather protection, fine. Just change the oil a little more often... or base your changes on oil analysis. Cheers!

:hitit:
 
you forget that Honda engines are different then a lot of engines and was designed to use 0-20 or 5-20. I don't think a ford v8 is any where near a high rev Honda. If you run thick oil in a Honda it will burn less oil, but then start to gunk up inside. Much better to burn some oil up then sludge it up with thick oil. The ford v8 is designed to run on 5-20, but oil is getting burned up. I added some 0-40w mobil 1, now its burnup a lot less oil, it has 160,000 miles on it which shows ford does make a good engine and it s beat to hell and back-still going ok. Mobil 1 0-40 European blend is a top of the line, Mobil has to follow different specs and can't cheat because Europe wouldn't allow it to be sold otherwise.
 
sunofwolf said:
you forget that Honda engines are different then a lot of engines and was designed to use 0-20 or 5-20. I don't think a ford v8 is any where near a high rev Honda. If you run thick oil in a Honda it will burn less oil, but then start to gunk up inside. Much better to burn some oil up then sludge it up with thick oil. The ford v8 is designed to run on 5-20, but oil is getting burned up. I added some 0-40w mobil 1, now its burnup a lot less oil, it has 160,000 miles on it which shows ford does make a good engine and it s beat to hell and back-still going ok. Mobil 1 0-40 European blend is a top of the line, Mobil has to follow different specs and can't cheat because Europe wouldn't allow it to be sold otherwise.
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ppl here often post their Blackstone results. Test kits are free too, and the testing (which tests are to you) are good case studies... which beats anecdotal evidence every time.
 
@mySIck
that was fast!

Yeah, I'd skip the TBN test (an extra $10) that just explains the condition of your DI package... the remaining detergents in the oil. You'd want that info if you're doing extended oil change intervals (like over 7500 miles) but otherwise it's superfluous.

The most economical way to do biz with Blackstone is to purchase a 6-pack. Expensive, though, but it does get the testing price down to like $20 or something. For that price they'll still do a full spectrographic of all the primary wear metals... which differ according to vehicle and what major component is being tested. But it's more than just test numbers. They'll personally analyze the oil and write up an explanation of what they think is going on in your engine, tranny, differential, whatever. And which component (rods, bearings, hypoid gears, etc) might be failing. It's useful information, definitely. Especially if you plan on keeping the vehicle... since it tells you not only what to watch out for, but when to stop putting money into the car. Since once the engine or something BIG goes sideways, it's the end of the line for most of us.
 
@webby... can you help locate one of those PDF Blackstone reports as a sample? Thanks amigo. (And if you can't I might be able to upload another one)
Cheers!

:hitit:
 
@Bruce Bartlow awesome sauce, thanks for the info I am going to look more into it now. I am going to do an oil change soon to replace the oil in my replacement motor since my last one went BOOM. I don't think the person who had it before took good care of it and I am curious to see how it turns out.
 
mySIck said:
@Bruce Bartlow awesome sauce, thanks for the info I am going to look more into it now. I am going to do an oil change soon to replace the oil in my replacement motor since my last one went BOOM. I don't think the person who had it before took good care of it and I am curious to see how it turns out.
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Was that a Honda engine that blew up, how many Milles? Suks getting a Lemon. How much did a engine cost you?
 
sunofwolf said:
Was that a Honda engine that blew up, how many Milles? Suks getting a Lemon. How much did a engine cost you?
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Should have bought the car from a old lady or guy who rarely drive's, last two cars I did that.
 
This was my second 9th gen SI I bought them brand new and babied my cars for the most part from time to time I would go out to the drag strip and do a few passes but that was not that often.

I just replaced it with a K24Z3 since it is the same motor at a much lower cost. My ultimate goal is to have the full motor built anyway but due to cost I'll have to wait it out.
 
Need Coilovers ASAP.
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