Brakes smoking

Decision is final, I'm going Carbotech XP10 in front and XP8 in back. I just spoke with Mike Jr. at Carbotech on the phone and discussed my setup/use. He said as long as I don't mind dust and noise, they'll be just fine on the street (all year round) and likely still provide better stopping cold than my OEM pads. I also asked him about getting new rotors and he seemed to think I'd be fine just having the factory rotors lightly turned... I'll report back after I get the new pads and have a chance to install and bed them, but that'll be a little ways out as they didn't have the fronts in stock and will have to make them for me and then I'll need to get out to a track to bed them in...
 
dath1974 said:
Decision is final, I'm going Carbotech XP10 in front and XP8 in back. I just spoke with Mike Jr. at Carbotech on the phone and discussed my setup/use. He said as long as I don't mind dust and noise, they'll be just fine on the street (all year round) and likely still provide better stopping cold than my OEM pads. I also asked him about getting new rotors and he seemed to think I'd be fine just having the factory rotors lightly turned... I'll report back after I get the new pads and have a chance to install and bed them, but that'll be a little ways out as they didn't have the fronts in stock and will have to make them for me and then I'll need to get out to a track to bed them in...
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I would listen to the guy who has personal experience more than someone trying to sell me something. @jrotax101 races and instructs if you were wondering about his qualifications regarding the subject.

jrotax101 said:
I disagree with running XP10s on the street. Their operating temperature range is ~400-1600F. A performance street pad would be the bobcat, with AX6 the next step up.
Everyone will have their own opinion though.
I personally run Performance Friction Z-Rated on the street and PFC11 on the track. IMO there's no such thing as a dual duty pad. It's either a street pad or a track pad; don't make it do both.
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Mike Jr, knows his stuff and won't sell you on parts you don't need. Typically it should only take them about 3-5 days for them to make the pads and than they'll ship right away. Now whether you should run them on the street or not, everyone is going to have a different opinion on that just like jrotax said. You will just have to try them and see for yourself.
 
@squiggy - I definitely took into account what @jrotax101 said, but believe based on the experience of others that have run them on the street without issues that I'll likely be fine with it. If I for some reason am not, it's easy enough to get another set of pads for street use. In all fairness, Mike Jr. specifically tried *not* to sell me something as I was perfectly willing to buy two sets of pads, but I asked him "if I'm willing to live with noise and dust, will I have any other issues on the street?"... I completely mean *no* disrespect though to anyone here and I'll be the first to admit I was wrong if it turns out they don't work well for me. I'll definitely report back on how it goes once I get them and have a chance to install an bed them (that's the largest drawback in my mind is that it's going to be difficult to line up installation/bedding since I'll need to be on a track)...
 
dath1974 said:
@squiggy - I definitely took into account what @jrotax101 said, but believe based on the experience of others that have run them on the street without issues that I'll likely be fine with it. If I for some reason am not, it's easy enough to get another set of pads for street use. In all fairness, Mike Jr. specifically tried *not* to sell me something as I was perfectly willing to buy two sets of pads, but I asked him "if I'm willing to live with noise and dust, will I have any other issues on the street?"... I completely mean *no* disrespect though to anyone here and I'll be the first to admit I was wrong if it turns out they don't work well for me. I'll definitely report back on how it goes once I get them and have a chance to install an bed them (that's the largest drawback in my mind is that it's going to be difficult to line up installation/bedding since I'll need to be on a track)...
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Good to hear that you took everything into account and are prepared to swap them out if necessary. Just don't want to see someone make an uniformed rash decision on something as important as brakes.
 
Usually when the more aggressive pads have a temperature range of 400-1400 for example, when they are below that operating range they don't operate on the molecular level to which they were designed.
Bedding the pads/rotors transfers a layer of the pad material to the disk and that allows this molecular "action" to happen. It keeps the pads in their happy window. When they drop below that level you get strange things happening. The aggressive pads can start to remove the material transferred onto the rotor when they were initially bedded. You'd experience this condition during street driving.

It's similar on the upper end of the scale. The street pads can't handle the temperature and you start seeing deposits all over the disk where it literally got so hot it stuck.

This is the reasoning behind my stance on the subject. I hope it works out for your required purpose. Make sure to share your experience after a few weeks/months of driving.

You can bed them on the street. They don't need 100+ mph stops.. 55 or so will suffice, it'd just need a few more than higher speeds to generate the temperature needed for transfer.
 
FYI - stock brakes held up okay on track at my HPDE. I was definitely aware that they could have problems, so I took it easier on the brakes than I may have otherwise. Probably too easy honestly. This was my first event though, so I had a lot to worry about and didn't want to panic over brakes getting too hot, so I let up on the straights long before the braking zones... I think it drove my coach a bit nuts, but honestly, the car felt a little too squirrelly to me after about 120mph... Probably just need to get used to the feeling and work on being smoother on the inputs...

Also, regarding the XP10/XP8 pads, I believe the heat range on the XP10's is more like 250F-1475F (couldn't find the exact low point, but the XP12's start at 250). The XP8's are 200F-1250F. I'll definitely update though with experiences after they're installed and I've used them for a while.
 
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Yes, definitely keep us updated.

Have you done anything else to the car?
 
Yea he mentioned that he is going to be switching to AD08s soon and he is also supercharged making about 300whp, suspension is stock.
 
This list has most things, minus some of the supporting engine modes (spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump):

Engine / Performance Modifications:
PRL 3.5" CAI
ZDX TB
Ct-e supercharger
Vittuned 2.95" pulley & aftercooler
Full Race 3" cat-back
Full Race catless downpipe

Hasport 62a rear motor mount

Buddy Club short shifter
Corsport base bushings
Hybrid Racing cable bushings
PRL stainless braided clutch line
Suspension & Wheel Modifications:
20mm Garageline spacers
EDIT: SPC front camber bolts
As @FRDRICE mentioned, I'm planning moving to AD08 or AD08Rs soon. I'm also planning on installing a 24mm rear anti-sway bar. I'd *like* to change the suspension as well, but getting executive approval for that one is more difficult... If I do, I'm currently considering one of the Redshift coilover kits....

Oh, and I have the Exedy stage 1 clutch and lightweight flywheel...
 
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@Nix - thanks, I'm loving it. @VitViper did the install on the blower and the tune. The thing screams. On the straights at the track it was keeping up or able to pass most everything (keep in mind I'm in the complete newbie class with coach in car)... There was a hot Mustang that walked me like I was parked, but otherwise all of the passing cars were passing because I can't corner for a hill of beans, which is more my fault than the car at this point. Mostly passed by 911s... One Cooper S passed and was faster on the straight than I would have expected... Maybe just because she carried more speed, or there were mods involved, not sure... She was definitely the better driver though, but I could have said that for nearly everyone out there! I'm humbled, but the car kicked ***! Z4 M driver talked to me while I was gassing up and wondered how the hell I was so fast... Was really tempted to tell him it was bone stock, but I was nice;-) Oh, and I did learn that it is *possible* to get oversteer with a relatively stock setup, but it's hard as hell to do!
 
I occasionally have students at the BMW events with nice Hondas.. I'm good friends with the chief instructor and he knows I'm a honda guy at heart too, so I get the cool stuff. I had a K-frank swapped & caged CRX last September, it would blow the doors off most cars in a straight line. At least it gave me big grins from the passenger seat seeing the Porsche/BMW faces. Your story reminded me of this one.
 
All that power with no brakes or suspension upgrades? You're crazy. Lol.
 
dath1974 said:
This list has most things, minus some of the supporting engine modes (spark plugs, injectors, fuel pump):

Engine / Performance Modifications:
PRL 3.5" CAI
ZDX TB
Ct-e supercharger
Vittuned 2.95" pulley & aftercooler
Full Race 3" cat-back
Full Race catless downpipe

Hasport 62a rear motor mount

Buddy Club short shifter
Corsport base bushings
Hybrid Racing cable bushings
PRL stainless braided clutch line
Suspension & Wheel Modifications:
20mm Garageline spacers
EDIT: SPC front camber bolts
As @FRDRICE mentioned, I'm planning moving to AD08 or AD08Rs soon. I'm also planning on installing a 24mm rear anti-sway bar. I'd *like* to change the suspension as well, but getting executive approval for that one is more difficult... If I do, I'm currently considering one of the Redshift coilover kits....

Oh, and I have the Exedy stage 1 clutch and lightweight flywheel...
Click to expand...

Didn't know your supercharged !

It looks like shedding weight is not your concern, instead of $800 ad08r, go with $400 federal rsr

Ground control koni coilover springs are not compressed, so it's not ideal for DD..

Buy set up with coilover preload..

Brakes, you just need to learn it by making purchase mistakes, because your the typical 90% that rather spend $5000 on 100hp then $1500 to stop your vehicle.
 
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also, there are many debates over floating calipers vs fixed calipers....

if floating calipers are high performance, honda will not be using 2pc brembo on a 195whp late model type-R

new-honda-civic-type-r.jpg


not to mention 265whp evo x also equip with brembo

2010_mitsubishi_lancer_evolution_x_tmr_bathurst_edition.jpg
 
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