Camber kit needed?

Anyone point me to a good/inexpensive camber arm kit/?
Are you lowering your car?
General recommendation is you'll need a camber kit after an inch of drop to even out the rear camber and avoid unnecessary tire wear
 
trustdestruction - would you mind posting your alignment sheet? Just so we can compare the difference from a slight 1" drop to the large 2+" drop joeliu posted.

I copied his over on the last page. His alignment was way out but again, a much more significant drop. It might help people decide when they are going to need camber adjustability or how much a drop they want to go with.
 
I'm doing my sportlines Monday and will be doing my own alignment at work. Being a tech with unlimited resources ftw ..
I'll post up what I come up with. Then a week later I'll align it again once everything settles.
 
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trustdestruction - would you mind posting your alignment sheet? Just so we can compare the difference from a slight 1" drop to the large 2+" drop joeliu posted.

I copied his over on the last page. His alignment was way out but again, a much more significant drop. It might help people decide when they are going to need camber adjustability or how much a drop they want to go with.
I didnt get a printout, their printer was broken. I asked the tech and he said it was nowhere close to being out of spec.


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Anyone know off hand what the wrench size is for godspeed camber arms? I don't have my tools here, and wanna make sure I have a big enough wrench before I go into work
 
Just installed my sportlines. Using godspeed camber arms, I measured then out and made them identical length as stock arms. Then onto the alignment rack I went. Had about 2.5 and 2.0 in the back for camber. Toe also way out. I'd say with the sportline drop, if you want your camber around stock numbers you need the arms. Here's what I was faced with and adjusted it to.
utanetan.jpg
 
The right one wouldn't be locking the bushing side into the center by the looks of it. Neither are really right though. You want even amount of threads on either side of the center nut. Then you loosen the lock nuts from their locked positions, which would be the left picture, and you turn the center nut, it then either pushes the bushing side further out or in since one side is left hand threads and the other is right hand threads.
 
None is correct. Keep them fully closed or fully screwed in. Then you adjust according to the camber setting. If you do either one shown in the pic, you won't be able to adjust the camber arms correctly.

Do it this way:

Fully closed.
1102585_10201796763940244_868475854_o.jpg


Adjusted to the correct setting/length using the middle bolt:
1167543_10201796764020246_705972792_o.jpg


Left bolt and right bolt are locking nuts and should look like this.
1172674_10201796765140274_345897790_o.jpg
 
I was reading this for a diff kit http://www.spcalignment.net/instructions/67470-INS_WEB.pdf.

Its a bit confusing, it says to keep the distance the same but only use the middle bolt to adjust. Would you not need to move the right locking nut up first to adjust the middle bolt. then screw that right bolt down again as in your picture.

Il try to mess with it now...


Also i used white lithium grease on the bushings is that good enough? I didnt have access to silicon.
 
OK, I think i got the idea. So picture 3 is the final result everything locked in place? The distance between the left nut/bolt and the right nut/bushing has to be about equal?
 
OK, I think i got the idea. So picture 3 is the final result everything locked in place? The distance between the left nut/bolt and the right nut/bushing has to be about equal?
Yeah, last picture is it locked down. Go by those pictures, start with it basically all touching and then turn only the center nut which will move the two pieces away from each other equally, then lock the nuts down like in the last picture.
 
If i turn just the center bolt everything moves with it and it ends up looking like this:

IMG_20130817_214749.jpg

Is that right?
 
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