Camber kit needed?

Phil I tagged you in another thread... in case you don't want to go read... get some Gray Permatex Anti Seize on those threads before you install.
 
Dar-Dar said:
Not really. You'll have to make sure that the end connection does not spin while turning the middle bolt.
Click to expand...

In other words i hold the bushing while turning?


Yes that works... thanks dar dar/silver/Nix

The only thing is the bushing is not lined up like yours when all is fully tightened( in photo1), i guess i can loosen the bushing side just a bit so its straight?
 
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Yeah, you gotta think, the arm will be bolted in place and the bushing will be bolted in place, when you loosen the lock nuts and turn the center nut it will adjust in and out depending on which way you turn it.
 
Dar-Dar said:
None is correct. Keep them fully closed or fully screwed in. Then you adjust according to the camber setting. If you do either one shown in the pic, you won't be able to adjust the camber arms correctly.

Do it this way:

Fully closed.
1102585_10201796763940244_868475854_o.jpg


Adjusted to the correct setting/length using the middle bolt:
1167543_10201796764020246_705972792_o.jpg


Left bolt and right bolt are locking nuts and should look like this.
1172674_10201796765140274_345897790_o.jpg
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Your going to want to install in the car with them measure out to the same length as stock arms. Which basically looks to be pretty close to the last picture here. I removed the stock arms, measured from the rear to the center of the bushing and adjusted the center nut while holding the bushing so both sides turn out evenly. It looked pretty close to these pictures in length.
Then I aligned it. To make it a little easier on whoever is aligning it maybe go a little longer than stock to bring camber back positive. They are adjustable while on but that doesn't mean they aren't a pain to get a wrench up there on the alignment rack when the tires back on. Ha
 
So should i make it ~1/4 in longer than stock, cause i know im way out of spec.

Oh.... and did you need to take exhaust out for passenger side to install.?

Im guessing a millimeter or so in difference in the spacing between wont be a huge issue.
 
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I'm on sportlines and a 1/4 more than stock length prolly would've been good for me to start with. I went about a 1/8 more and had to spin them out once on the alignment rack.
 
Thanks silver.


I couldn't get the damn arm bolt off. Had a breaker bar but no socket. There is just not enough leverage with regular socket wrench. I close to stripped it. Another day...... :(

I did drop the rear konis in. And my rear is lower now. ..... also sad face....
 
phil136 said:
Thanks silver.


I couldn't get the damn arm bolt off. Had a breaker bar but no socket. There is just not enough leverage with regular socket wrench. I close to stripped it. Another day...... :(

I did drop the rear konis in. And my rear is lower now. ..... also sad face....
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That's lame. Why is the back lower, no bump stops?
 
I didnt cut em as I intended. Maybe they are pushed up more?

I'll take a photo later.

Also drilling the dust boots was pain. I did it with with a regular 12 mm drill bit and it came out crappy jagged, not a neat circle.

I think I need one of those cone shaped bits. I always run into that drilling thin metal. I suck...

I hope that doesnt mess up the shock.
 
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phil136 said:
I didnt cut em as I intended. Maybe they are pushed up more?

I'll take a photo later.

Also drilling the dust boots was pain. I did it with with a regular 12 mm drill bit and it came out crappy jagged, not a neat circle.

I think I need one of those cone shaped bits. I always run into that drilling thin metal. I suck...

I hope that doesnt mess up the shock.
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Why don't you just slide the black metal piece out from the dust boot and use the washers which were included with the shocks?
 
FB2Chris said:
Why don't you just slide the black metal piece out from the dust boot and use the washers which were included with the shocks?
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is that possible? I was trying to push it out when I was drilling so I can drill it better.I guess it needs a harder push. I will attempt.

It is a good idea. I mean there are washers on both sides anyway.


Its really hard to keep the soft boot steady while drilling, hence the crappy job.
 
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phil136 said:
is that possible? I was trying to push it out when I was drilling so I can drill it better. Does is need a good push?

That is a good idea. I mean there are washers on both sides anyway.


I just followed the directions from various sources. Its really hard to keep the soft boot steady while drilling, hence the crappy job.
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Yeah it slides out with a little bit of force. One of the washers fits perfectly into the dust boot.
 
you think its worth taking the shock back out for this? I mean the only possible scratches/damage to the rod would be beyond the dust boot/shock travel; and its not horribly jagged.

:hijacked: <sorry last post on this
 
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phil136 said:
you think its worth taking the shock back out for this? I mean the only possible scratches/damage to the rod would be beyond the dust boot/shock travel; and its not horribly jagged.

:hijacked: <sorry last post on this
Click to expand...

It depends I guess. If it's not a hack job it may be ok. I would take the shock out to swap in the new washers, but that's just me... I get bothered when things aren't installed correctly on my car lol.
 
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